Author Topic: Trigger slot wedge? (Read 1974 times)

fahnenschmied · « **on:** October 04, 2018, 03:47:35 AM »

I am building a Carolina Gun, with some of the furniture based on the Yuchi gun and the stock outline based mostly on the TR Gun. Last weekend I made the trigger and pinned it high like the TR Gun. In a description of that gun is a mention of wedge, in the front of the slot to limit travel. Of course, the grainy black and white phots in the article dont show it. Nor can I remember seeing photos of such a feature on other cheap guns. Is it simply a piece that fills the slot, or is it something else, like a crosswise wedge? Any photos?

Curtis · « **Reply #1 on:** October 04, 2018, 07:19:54 AM »

I don't currently have a photo to post, but what I do us cut a long, tapered triangular wedge from 40 or 50 thousandths brass, drill a small pilot hole of 1/16th or so and drive the point into the hole. The head of the wedge sits barely proud of the wood and a ledge filed into the trigger rests on the wedge in the fully forward position. The wedge is about 3/8" long. You may have to angle the pilot hole slightly towards the muzzle so it sits in solid wood. Hope that helps a little.

Curtis

Curtis · « **Reply #2 on:** October 04, 2018, 07:29:58 AM »

I found a pic that may help a little.... you might have to zoom in some.

Curtis

Turtle · « **Reply #3 on:** October 04, 2018, 02:07:59 PM »

looks like you used a tang screw coming from the bottom. I do this on a lot of early new England fowlers. It also looks like you had the same trouble as I do getting the screw head to be at a right angle to the trigger guard. how did they do that on originals?
Turtle

fahnenschmied · « **Reply #4 on:** October 04, 2018, 02:32:00 PM »

I didnt have any "trouble", this is the same exact angle and arrangement as one of the old guns I based some of my work on. Like on the old TR gun shown here. I do need to make the head of the screw smaller though. As to the "wedge", I dont need an extra hole, there is room in front of the trigger already. Nor did I cut back the web in front. May just stuff a snug fitting square piece of brass in there.

flehto · « **Reply #5 on:** October 04, 2018, 03:14:03 PM »

I'm puzzled as to why a wedge in front of the trigger is necessary...I just file the forward end of the slot for a slightly backward slant to the trigger.......Fred

Turtle · « **Reply #6 on:** October 04, 2018, 08:13:54 PM »

ok-no criticism intended. The pictures of originals I have see all showed a screwhead parallel to the surface of the trigger guard. Maybe I'm not so incorrect after all.

rich pierce · « **Reply #7 on:** October 04, 2018, 08:44:48 PM »

Great question and discussion. I learned something here.

fahnenschmied · « **Reply #8 on:** October 05, 2018, 02:37:15 AM »

Flehto, as there is no trigger plate, there is not much in the way to file. I laid out where I wanted my slot, but these early triggers were pinned higher than was common later on, and my hole grew a little. I wonder if some just glued in a little wooden wedge. Turtle, didnt take it as negative criticism. Only a very few old guns Ive seen have the screw flat, almost always they have some angle. Far enough back to get it "straight" and there will not be room for the trigger in front of the guard. On a few fowlers Ive seen the tang screw head is buried in the wood in front of the trigger, behind the front of the guard bow.

B.Habermehl · « **Reply #9 on:** October 05, 2018, 04:06:45 AM »

A small wedged shaped piece o sheet brass can be tapped into the front o FTC trigger mortise if needed to help with trigger rattle. I saw this on a Jack Brooks type G trade gun. My own type G trade gun didn’t need one so I didn’t put one in. It’s strictly a option if needed as far as I’m concerned. Not having the privilege to handle the Williamsburg Bumford gun I can’t say if the original had a brass stop or not. BJH

fahnenschmied · « **Reply #10 on:** October 05, 2018, 11:45:25 PM »

I can't see enough of the one on the Bumford gun to really tell what is going on - it almost looks like a transverse wedge. Nor can I really tell if the top of the trigger is cut back. I will likely stuff a chunk in, just to hold the trigger back a little.

Eric Kettenburg · « **Reply #11 on:** October 06, 2018, 12:28:03 AM »

I would really question as to whether a wedge like that is original to the gun or a period 'enhancement' to take up slop as the thin trigger blade begins to wear against the sear arm.

I'm no trade gun expert by a long shot, but I have worked on a few of differing periods and regions, and I've never seen one of those wedges on any one - no matter how worn out - that I've had here.

Clark Badgett · « **Reply #12 on:** October 06, 2018, 12:40:57 AM »

Hanson mentioned the wedge in his trade gun sketchbook.

Eric Kettenburg · « **Reply #13 on:** October 06, 2018, 01:46:07 AM »

I'm aware of that, but they do not seem universal or even common by any stretch, so I can't help but wonder if they are a common 'after the fact' fix for a sloppy trigger. This is not a high-wear area to begin with, especially given how a single trigger on a flintlock is used (it's not like one 'touches it off' and it then springs back against the mortise!) so there is really no need for any form of piece insertion there, other than to take up slop. There is actually a greater likelihood of side-to-side trigger/wood wear than there is front to back, and even then, not anything to any appreciable degree unless one is stocking with pine.

fahnenschmied · « **Reply #14 on:** October 06, 2018, 05:30:42 PM »

I think it was probably done just to take up slop when the things were new. I can see something in this photo, but not enough to really satisfy me. It looks like it might be wider than the trigger slot, and entirely in front of it.

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