Drum installation

[Daryl Pelfrey]

Every time i buld a gun it seems that the drum position turns out a little off. I want to build this one percussion inhopes of maybe changing it to flint later. My worry is that if the drum turns out to be off a litle it will greatly affect the flint conversion.  I always put the drum in bacwards under the hammer and mark the hole posion byinserting a punch through the drum and punching a spot for the drilling. I cant determine whats causing them to turn out off. Usually i have to file the lock plate for it to fit around the drum. Any suggestions?

[smallpatch]

Build flintlocks.
Seriously, how are they off? Need a little more info to help.

[Daryl Pelfrey]

They turn out to high or to far foward. Just enough that i end up filing the lock plate. I always make them work being percusion but ot happy with having to file the plate.

[Clear Spring Armory]

The drum should be installed in the barrel first and then lock in positioned to inlet to the drum. Or at least that's how I do it, and I'm pretty sure that's "standard procedure". In the case of a drum that's pre drilled for a nipple, time the threads so the nipple hole will obviously need to be rotated clock wise to align the nipple with the hammer. After in letting the lock you can finish timing the drum. Or just use undrilled drum blanks and drill and tap your own nipple hole. Most importantly, make sure the lock is touching the drum around the 5 o'clock position, as it will brace the drum against shearing off from the force of the hammer fall.

[Stoner creek]

Put the drum in first. Better yet, put a touch hole in first.

[Gaeckle]

It just may be that the poster is using a pre-carve stock where the lock mortise is pre-inletted and using a stock like that makes lining up the drum to lock fit very hard.

[smallpatch]

Unfortunately, that is one of the problems of a pre carved stock.

[Frank]

Unfortunately, that is one of the problems of a pre carved stock.

Yep, The only precarve I will ever use will have the barrel inletted and the ramrod hole drilled. Nothing else.

[FDR]

How are you starting the hole after you mark it? A machinist "center drill" is a big help in starting the hole in the correct (marked) location.
https://www.harborfreight.com/center-drill-countersink-set-5-pc-60381.html

Fred

[B.Habermehl]

When I build a percussion rifle with a drum, I start with the drum installed on the barrel. Then I inlet the lock plate. I always shim the barrel about .010 before fitting the lock.  And remove the shim when the inletting is complete. This guarantees for me that I have firm support for the drum by the lock plate when I’m done. Usually I need to back off the tang bolt to remove the lock. Just my belt and suspenders approach. BJH

[bgf]

The drum location is a lot more exacting than touch hole location!  Just get the drum right in relation to the lock pan and Flint should be easy to add.  I won't add a diatribe against 1/4-28 drums, but just leave it to your judgement.

[Daryl Pelfrey]

Precarved. Sometimes lock inletted sometimes not. Is there some reason not to use 14 x28 drums?
Thanks

[Scota4570]

I put the drum dead center on the flat.  I then adjust the barrel inletting and lock cut to make it perfect.  It be luck to make it perfect on the first try.