Fiebings leather dye for stocks.

[rich pierce]

I’d be very surprised if each and every Fiebings dye has the same chemical structural basis.  So to lump them all as colorfast or not is probably unrealistic.

[Mike Lyons]

I’ve used the dark brown on a lot of military walnut stocks.  I’ve also used it to match different types of wood. An example would be making a birch or beech piece match a walnut piece. It’s pretty forgiving and if you don’t like it,  a soak in Easy Off stove cleaner will remove it.   It has always given me a nice red tone with walnut.  I’ve never used it on beautiful maple and with all the expert advice on here,  I seriously doubt I would consider it.

[J.E. Moore]

How about Lincoln brand dye? I ordered some to fake stripe a plain stock I'm redoing and had read that it doesn't fade as bad as fiebrings so that's what I ordered. Reckon this would be the right way to go?

[Mike Lyons]

I’ve only heard of cannon fuse to fake stripe a muzzleloader. 

[J.E. Moore]

Yeah I reckon they use a gapped up wide brush or a artist brush to paint em on with. Hadn't heard of using fuse before on a stock.

[Mike Lyons]

As soon as you’re finished with the last bit of final finish and got it right where you want it,  wrap it up and light it. Metal and all. 

[k gahagan]

I use nitric acid stain on maple but if I feel a need to adjust the color I use Trans Tint. I've found it more light fast by far than the others I've tried. I like Dark Vintage Maple and Honey Amber for the most part. I mix with water instead of alcohol for deeper penetration. I'll top coat with Tried and True Varnish Oil. Takes a lot of thin coats but great product.

[Waksupi]

On Monte Mandarino's advice, I have used mixtures of leather dyes for many guns.

[Hungry Horse]

Lincoln’s leather dyes are far superior to Any others I’ve tried. They are very colorfast, and resist sun fading. Fiebings dyes are much weaker than Lincoln’s, so if you are used to using Fiebings you may need to thin Lincoln’s a bit. It is harder to find than Fiebings, but is readily available on line. Both the local shoe repair shops use Lincoln, and swear by it.

  Hungry Horse

[J.E. Moore]

Lincoln’s leather dyes are far superior to Any others I’ve tried. They are very colorfast, and resist sun fading. Fiebings dyes are much weaker than Lincoln’s, so if you are used to using Fiebings you may need to thin Lincoln’s a bit. It is harder to find than Fiebings, but is readily available on line. Both the local shoe repair shops use Lincoln, and swear by it.

  Hungry Horse

yeah I ordered it from Lincoln, the USPS kept it bouncing around for over a month before it finally showed up. I'm going to use it for fake stripes. After seeing some y all have done I figured I'd like to give it a try. What do you suggest thining it with and how much?

[Hungry Horse]

Denatured alcohol, or shellac reducer, will thin it nicely. But, I wouldn’t thin it if I was going to use it to stripe a stock. I would get the medium brown.

  Hungry Horse

[J.E. Moore]

Denatured alcohol, or shellac reducer, will thin it nicely. But, I wouldn’t thin it if I was going to use it to stripe a stock. I would get the medium brown.

  Hungry Horse]
I think I ended up getting the dark brown but the bottle just says "brown".Was going to blush it with aquafortis then paint the stripes on after I worked it back a little, reckon that would work ok?

[Hungry Horse]

I’d use it full strength, and then rub it back if you want it lighter. Thinning it might make it spread out too much.

 Hungry Horse