Barrel bedding???

[Daryl Pelfrey]

I have a stock that the barrel needs bedded. Never done it but my idea is tape the stock with masking tape to keep any over run off. Use Vaseline on barrel for release agent.put down a sufficient sparingly head off 2 hr epoxy then clamp barrel in place.Does this sound Ok? Im just trying to salvage a sort of screw up.

[Daryl Pelfrey]

Soon as I can I would like to post some pics of guns Ive built. Pretty nice but I'm a far cry from what I would call a builder.

[Stoner creek]

Brownell’s sells a glass bedding kit that has a release agent included. It comes in either a liquid or gel form. The name of the product is Acraglas. Good product.
If you use an oily product as a release agent the oil can penetrate the stock and cause problems getting your stain to come out evenly.

[Dave Patterson]

I've bedded quite a few actions and barrels, but never a muzzleloader.

If I did, I'd go with the old tried-and-true rifle bedding materials kits:  Accraglas, Mile & Gilbert "Bedrock", or Brownells'.  All are available through Muzzleloader Builders' Supply, Track, or Brownells'. 

All those bedding kits contain virtually everything you'd need:  release agent, bedding material, coloring agents, etc.

[FDR]

I have bedded a ton of modern guns. My "go to" release agent is "Johnsons paste wax". I usually apply 2 coats to make sure the gun barrel is covered well. Fill any holes where the bedding compound does not need to go with modeling clay or play dough and then lightly wax. I prefer a gel bedding compound. The water thin Acraglass run everywhere.  Acra gel works much better for me.
https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-tools-supplies/stock-work-finishing/stock-bedding-adhesives/acraglas-gel--prod1038.aspx

Fred

[Hungry Horse]

I agree with Fred. Paste wax, and the gel bedding compound does the trick. I have also seen literally dozens of guns hopelessly glues up because some idiot told the guy to spray it with WD40, or silicone spray, or some other stuff. Paste wax , several coats, just like Fred mentioned.

  Hungry Horse

[tiswell]

If it is a longrifle with barrel tenons and stock pins consider using clay to keep the bedding compound from entering these areas. Also the lock bolt and tang bolt holes if not accounted for may create an epoxy lock on the barrel. I have used Kiwi Neutral shoe polish at least two coats everywhere with great results.

                                                 

[smokinbuck]

I just finished bedding, and making a few small repairs to a walnut stock using "pro Bed 2000". Used press and seal from the wife's kitchen to wrap the barrel, instead of a release agent. Worked beautifully, gave me plenty of time to work it and did not make a mess. Filed and sanded just like wood when it cured and matches the walnut to perfection. I think it comes in brown and white, not sure about the white.
Mark

[SingleMalt]

You'll need to have a gap to fill.  I don't know how loose the barrel is, but .030" is a good rule of thumb.

[Daryl Pelfrey]

Thankyou guts. I'm glad I found this forum. Since I'm only into muzzeloaders now. Use to shoot long bow and recurve.

[shortbarrel]

If you want to do it the old way, I saw a old long rifle years ago that was lined with wood plane shavings glued in. Don,t know the glue, but it was still holding tight. Wish I had bought the it, I was SMR rifle.           

[jerrywh]

 I always used Johnson's paste wax for release and bedded a lot of barrels with it both modern and flintlocks. For bedding I use Slow epoxy mixed wit ha litle powdered tempra brown powder. The mixture never sets real hard and brittle like most but is more like a semi hard plastic and it looks more like the original stained wood.

[Daryl Pelfrey]

Well I beded the barrel with locktite epoxy and brushed a thin layer of vaseline on barrel for release agent. I masked the stock to keep it clean. Turned out great. Thanks for the repljes. If I ever really need to bed one again I will use the acra glass you reccomend.

[Roger B]

The gel gives you more time to work and distribution is easier to control. Definitely use the dye that comes with the kit. If you ever need to bed furniture, use a clear, slow setting epoxy and stain the inlet first. If a minor fix, it's nearly invisible.
Roger B.

[Hungry Horse]

I guess I’m in the minority here. I have built several rifles, and trade guns, and only bedded one tradegun, my first scratch build.

  Hungry Horse

[Jerry]

I assume everyone here is talking muzzleloaders. I have "NEVER" used any bedding or filler on the stocks of muzzleloaders to fill gaps. 

[ltdann]

I'm in the AcraGlass camp and use Saran Wrap on the barrel.