Recommendations for finish on barrel and metal parts

[Davyboy]

Does anyone have a recommendation for finishes on barrel/metal parts  I have a TVM late Lancaster kit ordered and I will have to finish the barrel and metal parts myself. I’ve been reading up on different methods (rust blueing, cold bluing, hot bluing, browning, etc.).  Obviously, I want the most durable, corrosive resistant finish I can get, but I’ve never done any kind of metal treatment before.  I’ve made several inquiries to different places about having it done, but no one seems to be able to handle the longer barrel (42”), so it looks like I’m doing it myself-  if anyone has a method or brand of finish that they prefer, I’d appreciate the input.

Thanks,

Dave

[sqrldog]

Contact Tom Snyder, Hancock Michigan. He probably can be of assistance. I have two rifles with barrels that Tom charcoal blued. He is a very competent gunsmith. Tom once posted on the ALR.

[sqrldog]

[Ky-Flinter]

Hi Dave,

Welcome to ALR.  Tom Synder does top-notch work, but it's not hard to do a tradition rust brown yourself and it is a durable finish.  I use Wahkon Tru-Brown browning reagent.  No heat is required.  Wear rubber or latex gloves.  Degrease the steel parts.  Apply the reagent and let it sit for 12 hours, maybe longer on the first coat or 2.  (Don't get it in the bore, or on the inside of your lock or on the face of the frizzen.)  Once you start seeing some rust taking hold, rub it back with extra fine scotch-brite.  (If you use steel wool, be sure to degrease it.)  When you have a nice dark brown finish, rub it back one more time, then scrub it with baking soda mixed with water.  Dry it and rub in some Outer's gun grease on a coarse cloth.  Done.

-Ron

[Frank]

Laurel Mountain Forge browning solution. Just follow the directions on the bottle. No need to degrease. Neutralize with ammonia then apply some WD40. You will have an even durable finish in about 3 days. This stuff is idiot proof.

[Marcruger]

I actually like a cold blued barrel and lock that is rubbed back with Scotchbrite. 

[Mark Elliott]

For an early Lancaster,  I would suggest either a charcoal blue or leave it bright for the barrel.   Locks should always be polished bright.   You can age from that point if you like.  For a late Lancaster,  I would recommend either brown or rust blue.   For the latter, you will start with a brown anyway.   I would still leave the lock polished bright. 

[Davyboy]

Thank you all for your help.  I especially like the idiot proof comment.....it’ like you know me already.  I ordered my kit with German Silver instead of brass, so i’m leaning more toward of a darker blued barrel.  I guess I’ll just have to look at some more pictures of finished rifles on this forum to get a better idea of how the different finishes look.  What a rough chore that will be!! Oh dang,  I have look at some of the most incredible guns I have ever seen....again.  Life is hard sometimes.

[Marcruger]

Here is an example of the fine work Ed Wenger does with rubbed back cold blue.....

[Marcruger]

I am sure there were regional and maker variances, but I recall seeing an ad for a gunmaker in North Carolina from the late 1700s.  It noted that he offered browning and blue work on guns. I found that quite interesting, and it settled a lot of questions I had over the years.  God Bless,   Marc

[davebozell]

I have used a "French gray" finish on steel parts.  For the barrel, I started by browning the barrel with Laurel Mountain browning solution.  After a couple coats, I rubbed it back with extra fine Scotchbrite.  Then I applied brass darkening solution to darken it a little more.  I used the brass darkening solution on the lock plate, screws and thimble.  If it gets scratched, it is very easy to touch up with the same solution.

[Darkhorse]

On my hunting rifles I use LMF (Laurel Mountain Forge) browning solution. I continue browning until I have a dark brown finish then wash the parts with baking soda (I can't quite remember), dry the parts and apply a good coat of wax to all metal parts and the stock. This is a trouble free finish, when you come in from hunting just wipe the metal with a soft cloth and you will be rust free.

[M. E. Pering]

I usually use Laurel Mountain Forge browning solution for rust bluing my ferric parts.  The effect I usually achieve is that of very old metal, which was originally in the white.  It really depends on what you want your rifle to look like, Davyboy.  I have also had great success with Birchwood-Casey Plum Brown when browning parts, and it looks great as well.  I think most products out there will give you the result you want, but you have to define what that result is first, and then go from there.  Not on gun parts, but I have wiped parts in motor oil and burned it off with a propane torch before... Leaves a very black and rough finish, but if that is what you are after, then have at it.  How do you want your gun to look?  This is my rust blue:



Matt