Author Topic: Which Aqua Fortis (Read 2779 times)

KILTED COWBOY · « **on:** February 09, 2019, 10:22:56 PM »

I have seen aqua fortis for sale on various sources TOW and Kibler's website to name a few.
Are they all the same? Are any better than the others? What is the brand most of y'all with much more experience than I have use. Do not want to go through the expense on my first try to buy lots of different ones to compare if y'all have already done that. Any opinions are appreciated.
Kilted Cowboy

Dave Marsh · « **Reply #1 on:** February 09, 2019, 10:59:07 PM »

Well if I read another post of yours right you have a Kibler kit so I would go with the Kibler aqua fortis as that is what he used in the video.

Dave

smart dog · « **Reply #2 on:** February 09, 2019, 11:13:34 PM »

Hi,
My preference is to not buy commercially prepared aqua fortis at all. Buy ferric nitrate powder from the Science Company and mix it with distilled water or alcohol to make your own "aqua fortis" solution. Use the search function above to find many discussions of this.

dave

moleeyes36 · « **Reply #3 on:** February 09, 2019, 11:14:56 PM »

KC,

The biggest difference I've seen is the acidity of the different commercial solutions. Ideally the solutions should be pretty much neutral with the acid pretty well used up. This is what I've found Jim Kibler's solution to be. If you watched the video he just posted you'll see he was applying it without rubber gloves. The first time I used a commercial solution the results were great, but I didn't neutralize the stock with ammonia or a baking soda solution. Within a few months I had a very, very dark stock because the acid level in the solution was too high and it kept working. I used the same solution on other stocks, but wiped the stock down with household ammonia after applying and blushing with a heat gun. No problem with darkening after that. I've since gone to Jim Kibler's solution and used it just like he demonsrtates in the video and found no need to wipe down the stock with ammonia. Had no darkening problems with a stock since I switched.

Mole Eyes

KILTED COWBOY · « **Reply #4 on:** February 10, 2019, 01:07:04 AM »

Quote from: moleeyes36 on February 09, 2019, 11:14:56 PM

KC,

The biggest difference I've seen is the acidity of the different commercial solutions. Ideally the solutions should be pretty much neutral with the acid pretty well used up. This is what I've found Jim Kibler's solution to be. If you watched the video he just posted you'll see he was applying it without rubber gloves. The first time I used a commercial solution the results were great, but I didn't neutralize the stock with ammonia or a baking soda solution. Within a few months I had a very, very dark stock because the acid level in the solution was too high and it kept working. I used the same solution on other stocks, but wiped the stock down with household ammonia after applying and blushing with a heat gun. No problem with darkening after that. I've since gone to Jim Kibler's solution and used it just like he demonsrtates in the video and found no need to wipe down the stock with ammonia. Had no darkening problems with a stock since I switched.

Mole Eyes

Thanks for the info. Helps me make good decisions

Mikecooper · « **Reply #5 on:** February 10, 2019, 02:11:04 AM »

I just tried some AF from TOTW and it was about the ugliest finish that I've seen, maybe it had too much un-usedup acid ? should I add iron to it maybe?

Dennis Glazener · « **Reply #6 on:** February 10, 2019, 03:53:29 AM »

Quote from: Mikecooper on February 10, 2019, 02:11:04 AM

I just tried some AF from TOTW and it was about the ugliest finish that I've seen, maybe it had too much un-usedup acid ? should I add iron to it maybe?

Did you blush it with enough heat? If not that may have been the problem. I have used their AF and it turned out pretty good on the stocks I used it on. It needs to be be heated just short of scorching the wood.
Dennis

smart dog · « **Reply #7 on:** February 10, 2019, 03:58:30 AM »

Hi,
If you listen to what I wrote you will be fine.

dave

TommyG · « **Reply #8 on:** February 10, 2019, 04:12:31 AM »

What Dave says. Ferric Nitrate crystals mixed with water or DA. Try different strengths on scraps, i.e. - 3:1, 4:1, etc.

Mike Brooks · « **Reply #9 on:** February 10, 2019, 05:19:41 PM »

Quote from: smart dog on February 10, 2019, 03:58:30 AM

Hi,
If you listen to what I wrote you will be fine.

dave

Good luck with that Dave!

Mike Brooks · « **Reply #10 on:** February 10, 2019, 05:24:05 PM »

Just from my experience, the old Wakaun bay stuff is stronger and I found I must neutralize after blush or my stocks would go black. Haven't tried the new Waukaun stuff since the "new" formula came out. I've just started Using Kibler's stuff and it's milder and I haven't been neutralizing per his suggestion. The last several guns I have made were stained with Jim's stuff. They're posted here and there if you want to see what it looks like. The last Lehigh I did was red maple and it tends to of course want to go a little darker.

smallpatch · « **Reply #11 on:** February 10, 2019, 06:26:32 PM »

What Dave and Mike said........listen to them!

Jim Kibler · « **Reply #12 on:** February 10, 2019, 09:27:27 PM »

I would recommend Kibler's product.

Tim Crosby · « **Reply #13 on:** February 11, 2019, 02:37:39 AM »

Quote from: Mike Brooks on February 10, 2019, 05:19:41 PM

Quote from: smart dog on February 10, 2019, 03:58:30 AM
Hi,
If you listen to what I wrote you will be fine.

dave
Good luck with that Dave!

Ya gott'a love it.

Tim

Scotty · « **Reply #14 on:** February 11, 2019, 05:14:03 AM »

Been wanting to try the ferric nitrate crystals. How is it mixed, by weight or volume?

smallpatch · « **Reply #15 on:** February 11, 2019, 05:48:11 AM »

I mix the 100gm bottle with a pint of distilled water.

bob hertrich · « **Reply #16 on:** February 11, 2019, 09:17:23 PM »

Does the ferric nitrate crystals and water have to set for a while or used right after mixing?

smart dog · « **Reply #17 on:** February 11, 2019, 09:35:13 PM »

Hi,
No setting needed. Use right after mixing. It can also be mixed with alcohol if you want a non grain raising stain. I always start with 5 parts water to 1 part powder and test on the scraps from my gun. Then I go up or down in concentration if needed. I only make enough for each gun at a time.

dave

D. Taylor Sapergia · « **Reply #18 on:** February 11, 2019, 11:12:32 PM »

I make a super-saturated solution and store it in a glass jar with a sheet of plastic between the steel lid and the jar. Labelled and dated.

rich pierce · « **Reply #19 on:** February 11, 2019, 11:23:36 PM »

I’ve got 2 batches of home brew at least 10 years old in plastic jars. Still strong. Have not tried crystals yet.

Ky-Flinter · « **Reply #20 on:** February 12, 2019, 10:14:38 PM »

I think you guys are discussing 2 different concoctions.

Aqua Fortis stain for wood is made by dissolving clean iron in a solution of Nitric Acid. Some commercially offered Aqua Fortis stain also has other acids added.

Jim Kibler sells an Iron Nitrate stain. I believe his stain is made with ferric nitrate crystals, not nitric acid.

-Ron

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Author Topic: Which Aqua Fortis (Read 2779 times)

KILTED COWBOY

KILTED COWBOY

Mikecooper