Entry pipe issue

[Mauser06]

Finishing up all the inletting on my first plank build. 



I cheated and bought my pipes from MBS. 

Long story short, I inlet a forward pipe where the entry pipe will go.  I then inlet the entry pipe.   

The pipe is pretty much in its final position.  The  breech end of the "tab" of the entry pipe is proud of the wood in the center...just a smidge higher than the thickness of the brass. 


Figured I'd turn to you guys before I ruin it.  You could say I cut my forend a little too thin...but, to make a nice slim longrifle, you gotta keep it slim lol.

I don't know what my best fix is now that the inlet for the "tab" is already there.  I don't wanna screw that area up. 


Thanx for any advice!

[TommyG]

I'm trying to understand what exactly your problem is.  Are you saying that when you insert your entry pipe in the inlet you made using a forward pipe, the entry pipe is at depth, but the tail(which has yet to be inlet) is high?  If that is the case, I would anneal and reshape the tail.  Did you check the lift on the tail?  I make my pipes with 1/16" lift.

[Mauser06]

Tommy, maybe a picture will help...bear with me.  Best I could do via phone.





The green mark...center of the tail is proud of the wood maybe 1/16" give or take.     


The tail is inlet...I checked the actual pipe and it seems to be pretty well in its place.   I might be able to sink the pipe enough to get the tail deep enough.  I taper my ramrods so it wouldn't be an issue to sink it a smidge more. 


Just not sure on the best approach especially since the inlet is in. 

[RichG]

is the tab for the pin hitting barrel? if the pipe is parallel to the ramrod groove and deep enough then re-work tail of pipe.

[Mauser06]

The tab for the pin isn't broken through the web so it's definitely not hitting the barrel.


I guess I'm just not sure how to rework the tail to lower it evenly...I know if I simply bend the end of the tail down it'll throw the lines off. 


I realized the issue and stepped back to avoid turning it into a big problem.  Right now I'm certain it's correctable.  Just not sure how to correct it. 

[M. E. Pering]

Mauser06... What is the thickness of the web between the barrel channel and the ramrod channel here?  I am assuming here that you know there is nothing toward the front of the tail that would cause it to be held up.

Matt

[Mike Lyons]

Go with the experts advice but I’d sink it 1/16 and taper the ramrod. You could file the pipe and blend it in 1/32 and sink it 1/32.  Between bending it, sinking it and filing,  you have quite a bit of room to play with. 

[Stophel]

If the pipe is properly aligned with the groove and the hole, quite simply you must shape the tang down to meet the wood.  Unfortunately, it's not the simplest task, at least not for me, as metal likes to spread out, rather than compress, when you go whacking on it.  It can be done, but prepare for a little frustration. 

[Mauser06]

Matt, the web there is probably a little thick being in the area of the waist..I don't have an exact measurement.  Definitely some wood there.


Afghanvet, that may be the easiest solution since the tail is already inlet.  I measured the height I need to go.  It's nearly exactly 1/16" high right now. The bottom of the forearm is at its final dimension aside from scraping to finish.  I don't know that it's be noticable that the pipe is buried slightly deeper..


Stophel, I ran into an issue with an entry pipe before...it was more of an inletting error I didn't catch quickly enough on my first build.  I fought and fought trying to shape the tail to what I needed. 

[M. E. Pering]

Mauser06... Just guessing here, but I am betting your ramrod channel and hole are not parallel with the bore of your barrel.  I think most of us, at least when beginning to build rifles, have experienced this.  This is not catastrophic, but it does require thinking about how to approach the situation.

As some have suggested, you do have some metal you can take away, however, I would be careful of this.  If this turns out to be an appropriate solution for you, you should probably solder a tongue on the tail so you make sure it doesn't move.

Myself, I would try and find what the actual issue is.  I does sound like you have more wood in the area than is called for, and if that is the case, perhaps more work on the ramrod channel is called for.  If so, it is likely that your ramrod hole is going to be off a bit too, but if you properly taper your ramrod, this may be less of an issue than you may think.  I use a pair of dividers to determine my ramrod channel depth along the length of the barrel.  This is easy when using a straight barrel, but with a swamped barrel, you will need to modify your dividers to allow for the thick area near the waist of the barrel.  I put a simple notch in mine so I can go exactly one turn in one direction or another.

Probably the least acceptable solution is to inlet the pipe deeper, though it may be in your case the best one.  Make sure the tail of the pipe is exactly bent correctly, and inlet it deeper, using a test ramrod to make sure everything is acceptable.  A sixteenth of an inch here is quite a lot, considering most tails are only .030-.040".  Perhaps more pictures could give us all a better idea of the situation you are facing.

Matt

[smallpatch]

Look, if your pipe is inlet parallel with the rr channel, and your deep enough, bend the @!*% finial down a little and inlet it the rest of he way.
Wayyyyy too many, much more important things to worry about.

[Scota4570]

Put the tang over a piece of appropriately sized round material, like a large mechanics socket.   Give a few wacks with a soft face mallet.  You could also squish it in a vice with padded jaws and youf socket. It will get wider so, file it narrower or tweak the inletting.  As already pointed out make sure it is not tipped. 

[ron w]

as I understand your description. you need to eliminate as much "step" between the tail and the pipe where they meet, as you can. be careful there,....it's easy to oblongate the pipe by trying to beat that step down.

[bob in the woods]

This might sound a bit wacky, but, since you say the web is a bit thick, I would simply scrape the rod channel deeper, then sink the pipe to match and all will be well.  For me, a thick web between barrel and rod channel is one of the major visual detractors going .

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Did you check to see if a ramrod will go into the hole?  If not, make it so.  Also, reduce the radius of the tail - flatten it a bit - using a cylinder of the appropriate diameter and a soft hammer.  That will make the tail lower but will increase its width.  File the width to that of the already inlet cavity.  BOTW had another excellent remedy.

[jerrywh]

 Flatten out the tail some more. It can still be made to fit the inlet. just widen the tail cavity some. No big problem at all.  Or flatten the tail and narrow it some.

[mony]

Interesting challenge. Please let us know how you solved it.