Best glue for this break?

[ron w]

I've used TiteBond 2 for about as long as it has been on the market. It is an excellent glue if you can apply enough clamping pressure.
The only drawback that I have found with it here in the Southwest, as the wood shrinks the glue leaves a glue line proud of the surface.
I have used titebond 3 and really like it better than TiteBond 2. It has a longer working time and is less viscous than TB 2. It supposedly has gap filling qualities. I just jointed some Hickory boards together and have not seen the fore mentioned problem.

     that glue line problem is common with just about any glue there is. as a glue cures it reaches a point of innert stability, where moisture doesn't change it's dimensions.at that point the wood can still move with atmospheric conditions where as the glue line does not, hence, as wood shrinks when ambient moisture is at a low ebb, the glue line remains the same as when the joint was originally glued.  there are glues that move with the wood's movement, but these glues are also susceptable to creep, which means shear loads placed on the joint can and will displace the relationship between the two pieces that are joined. there are instances where this can be advantageous, because extended periods of such movement can break a glue joint that has little to no elasticity. there are a few marine glues that are rigid, but they require fairly high clamping pressures to achieve a glue line that is almost imperceptible, so that the wood movement between the two pieces is unison and the glued boards act as one piece.  most dry powder mix glues and Titebond 2 and 3 are such glues. there's a reason boat builders have all those clamps !

[Dan Fruth]

Dave....Have you figured out why it broke in the first place...Is the lock mortice too tight?....You might consider doin some brain stormin and see if you can alleviate any further breaks...Just my 2 cents.....

[Robby]

Ron, All my bows are self bows, no glass laminates.
Robby

[Davemuzz]

Dave....Have you figured out why it broke in the first place...Is the lock mortice too tight?....You might consider doin some brain stormin and see if you can alleviate any further breaks...Just my 2 cents.....

Oh yeah.....I know exactly how and why it broke. When I first built it back in 2010 and I "winged it" on all fronts. I didn't have a decent "how to book" nor did I have the appropriate tools. Back then I'm pretty certain I wrenched it to tight in a vise. Now, I glued and pinned it with 2 pins, and it held up well....until now when I've given it a diet to make it look better.

So, my results came out.....Ok. I'll know more when I apply some Chambers Stock Finish to it. But here's the results:

 

[ron w]

Ron, All my bows are self bows, no glass laminates.
Robby

  "laminated doesn't necessarily mean "glass lamination". bows, as well as gun stocks have bee built with wood laminations for years and years.  in the case of laminated bows some clamping can't be avoided as the ,aminations follow a mold to get their recuve. self bows can be made of wood laminations as well. it may not be technically traditional, but they can easily be made that way.  being non-recurve, there is actually much less shear strain on the glue line. I have a neighbor just a half mile up the river from me that used to own "Rivers Edge" bows,....beautiful, excellent shooting recurves,....he sold the business a few years ago,...I wish I would have bought a bow from him while he was making them.

[Ky-Flinter]

Looks like Dave got plenty of suggestions and has now repaired his stock.  Since this thread has devolved into a discussion of bow making, I'm locking it.

-Ron