Inclusion question

[alex e.]

I shaped the buttstock on a fusil. This very nice ,dense piece of European walnut developed this inclusion/ crack.
It does not run out anywhere in the buttplate nor forward towards the wrist. The opposite side is clean and clear as can be.
I just need some validation as to whether I need be concerned. Should I stabilize it in any way?
Common sense tells me to see how it finishes out and then make a decision. If it were my own  piece it wouldn't bother me at all.  But this goes to a customer.
Thanks in advance, Alex

[Stoner creek]

Character. Sometimes flaws aren’t all that bad.

[JTR]

If I was the customer, unless this is going to be a really inexpensive gun, no way would I accept that.

And with that wood, I doubt its going to be an inexpensive gun.....

I'd think the best route would be to ask the customer, and see what he thinks.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

I would fill the crack(s) with stained AcraGlas from Brownell's.  Good stock wood doesn't just grow on trees.

[Bill Raby]

I had about the same thing on the last gun that I build and I thought of it as a lucky bonus. I love it. The finish will likely mostly fill it in. But your customer may not feel the same way. Best to send him this photo and see what he thinks.

[jerrywh]

I would fill it with super thin super glue.  Accura glass is too thick to fill the void. I would first ask the customer what he thinks.

[alex e.]

I was thinking super glue also.
It's a basic Fusil de chasse. The European walnut is to make it period correct. These were not high end pieces in the day. I just don't want to see this inclusion grow more than anything else.

[Dave B]

I would bet that the high end makers would not hesitated to use a nice piece and do the patching so you would be hard put to even tell. I have seen high-end original pieces that had multiple bark inclusions dealt with  by plugs done very inconspicuously when new but age has a way of showing up what once was hidden. At least that what my wife tells me
You just never know when you buy a highly figured piece of crotch or stump wood that you wouldn't find a flaw or bark inclusion. I would still tell the customer let them decide and If they want a do over make a stock donation to my new not for profit for wayward bark inclusioned stocks. 

[smylee grouch]

I had the same thing on an american black walnut stock and I used the Acraglas stained lightly and had some super fine walnut dust mixed in. It seeped in ok and finished out ok too.

[FlintFan]

If you mix some dark dye in whatever epoxy/glue you use, the end result will be practically indistinguishable from the rest of the dark streaking in that stock after it is finished out.

I would try regular AcraGlas, with a little dye mixed in. Brownells also makes a thinner for Acraglas to help with exactly the type of repair you are trying to do. Test it in a small section of the gap, maybe a 1/2 long section to see if you like how it looks. If you wanted to adjust the color, you could always scrape out the test area and try again.

[Jeff Durnell]

I'd use thin viscosity superglue. I've used it successfully many times on bow wood... wood that flexes, and it holds. It wicks itself down into the farthest reaches of the crack, makes it strong, and stops it so it doesn't get any worst. Bigger voids may need several applications to fill.

[smart dog]

Hi Alex,
Both superglue or AcraGlas will work.  If the inclusion is wide, the thicker super glues may be needed but if hairline, thin "HotStuff" by Satellite City will do the job.  I would do it now so that any excess on the surface is removed as you final sand or scrape.

dave

[Eric Krewson]

I have fille a bunch of similar cracks on bows with superglue, I find the 5 tubes for a dollar stuff at the dollar store works just fine. Fill the crack until the glue quits running in and you have a puddle on top. I often take off the area right next to a crack to keep things neater.

[ron w]

like all the rest, fill it with died acraglass . I've done several tiles with real fancy European/French Walnut and it always turned out just fine. in this case ,...that it is a customer stock,.....I would contact him and make sure he will be OK with that as well. hopefully he will realize these things are not under your control,....they show up when they show up regardless of the grade of wood you buy and actually,.... the fancier the grain, the more likely something like this will develop. the good thing is that it is easily fixed, and doesn't really detract from the finished stock's beuty.

[B.Habermehl]

Kit Ravenshears method of using accraglass and a hair dryer or heat gun to thin it an “ help “ it seep into splits worked then, still works now. I’ve used other pigmented epoxies also.BJH

[WadePatton]

If I were the customer, I'd love it--filled as the others have stated.

If the customer doesn't feel the same, I'd make him another as I think you'll have zero trouble selling that one.  And the customer will have to understand that his delivery date will be pushed out considerably!   Cheers.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

If you use AcraGlas, as I suggested, use the four to one original resin, not the Gel.  Heat the stock with a light bulb or heat gun, and apply the epoxy little by little, watching it soak into the crevice(s).  When no more will go in, and you get a bead on the surface, lay a pice of clear packing tape over the wood and glass, and let it cure.  The tape will hold the epoxy so it doesn't run, and will give you a raised bead to finish off down to the wood.  The heated epoxy will flow like water.  Cleanup wet epoxy with alcohol.

[P.W.Berkuta]

I shaped the buttstock on a fusil. This very nice ,dense piece of European walnut developed this inclusion/ crack.
It does not run out anywhere in the buttplate nor forward towards the wrist. The opposite side is clean and clear as can be.

On one of David J Marks woodworking TV shows he did a large table that had some bark inclusions and he fixed some with a "Dutchman" and the smaller ones with an epoxy stained to match the surrounding wood. It came out very well and blended in so it looked natural  .

[JTR]

Maybe I missed the question as to whether the crack can be fixed? If that's the question, sure it can be fixed, as laid out above, fixed very nicely and easily.

I was thinking more to the point of the customer. As I said along with others, ask the guy what he thinks.

I know if I was the customer, and I was surprised with a repaired crack in the buttstock of my new expensive gun, I would not be happy. And more to economics, you'd play $#*! getting me back as a customer.

Ask him, and go from there.... 

[alex e.]

Thanks for the replies. I hit it with some super glue  . I don't believe the coach was that deep,  after a out two doses it seemed to not wanted take much more. I'll let it dry a bit and see.
The customer  will probably be ok with it .I've been given liberties as to how to finish it. If I drag it up the driveway a few times,  and let the six year old play with it for a week,the inclusion won't matter the least 
But I'll  let him know.

[T*O*F]

If you use AcraGlas, as I suggested, use the four to one original resin, not the Gel.

You can thin the gel with lacquer thinner to get it runny.  It doesn't affect the hardening any.

You guys can have your super glue.  I've never had any luck with it.  You are trying to fill a void, not glue the wood together.  This is accomplished by dying the acraglas black and filling the crack.  Once finished, it looks like natural mineral staining and takes a finish well.  Super glue soaks into the wood and seems to leave a shiny spot that won't accept stain.