Author Topic: Bluing with LMF browning solution (Read 7885 times)

Tim · « **on:** February 22, 2019, 01:11:04 AM »

Does the LMF Browning Solution produce a nice blued
Finish on a rifle barrel? I thought about ordering some when
I order my Chambers Oil finish from Jim Chambers.

smart dog · « **Reply #1 on:** February 22, 2019, 01:19:36 AM »

Hi,
It does if you boil the barrel before each carding.

dave

Tim · « **Reply #2 on:** February 22, 2019, 01:31:30 AM »

Dang that looks good. Any other bluing solution
You think is better? I would like to get my Chambers oil
and bluing from the same place to save on shipping cost.
Plan to order my iron Nitrate and tannic acid from Jim Kibler.
Wish I could get it all from one source.

jerrywh · « **Reply #3 on:** February 22, 2019, 01:48:22 AM »

I use LMF browning solution for rust bluing and it works just the same as Smart Dog's.
Why look for something else when that works so well?? BUT. I only boil after the browning is completed. I do bouut 5 coats of browning and then boil in distilled water. NOT TAP water.
Card with a .003 wire brush at 150 rpm. Longways to the flats.

Tim · « **Reply #4 on:** February 22, 2019, 01:58:09 AM »

Quote from: jerrywh on February 22, 2019, 01:48:22 AM

I use LMF browning solution for rust bluing and it works just the same as Smart Dog's.
Why look for something else when that works so well?? BUT. I only boil after the browning is completed. I do bouut 5 coats of browning and then boil in distilled water. NOT TAP water.
Card with a .003 wire brush at 150 rpm. Longways to the flats.

How smooth do you sand before applying the LMF?
I want a dark blue slick finish on the barrel.

smart dog · « **Reply #5 on:** February 22, 2019, 03:24:01 AM »

Hi,
What Jerry wrote is correct. I have to admit that boiling between carding and applications of browning versus boiling only after multiple browning coats achieved a final even color did not yield different results. It did matter when I tried to produce a red brown but that involved scalding, not boiling water. To achieve a smooth glassy finish, the barrel must be polished up to 600 or better 800 grit and the period of time between applying browning solution and carding kept less than 2 hours. It is a slow process and a soft stainless steel brushing wheel is a must. The wires must be no more than 0.003" in diameter.

dave

sdilts · « **Reply #6 on:** February 22, 2019, 03:30:22 AM »

Jerry,
How long do you boil it?

D. Taylor Sapergia · « **Reply #7 on:** February 22, 2019, 04:47:36 AM »

Jerry, why the distilled water rather than tap water?

M. E. Pering · « **Reply #8 on:** February 22, 2019, 05:37:00 AM »

I am currently rust bluing a barrel with LMF solution. Just about to card after the 3rd cycle. It does work well, and I am satisfied with the results, but it does take patience. The last rifle I did, I was trying for a grey patina, and only did 2 cycles. But this one I am getting close to black, so I have a few more cycles to go.

I card with denim, rubbing quite vigorously once out of the water and cooled. I also use just plain tap water out of my water heater which is boiling, but I do not recommend this, since your water may vary significantly in mineral content. I use a PVC pipe with one end capped, and just pour the water over the barrel. I know this sounds more like scalding, but I leave the barrel in the water about 10 minutes, and get a nice black crud that has to be carded off. I don't have a picture at the moment, but will be posting pics of the completed rifle in a week or so, and you will be able to see my results then.

Matt

Tim · « **Reply #9 on:** February 22, 2019, 05:47:01 AM »

My plan is to order the LMF solution tomorrow when I order the Chambers Oil finish.
Do you guys recommend I remove the breech plug and Blue it separate from the barrel?
Can I use the PVC pipe method and pour boiling water over the barrel or do I make a
Boiling tank and boil on my gas cooker?
Thanks to all for the good advice, Lord knows I need it.

jerrywh · « **Reply #10 on:** February 22, 2019, 05:57:36 AM »

I boil for about thirty minutes or until it turn black. The reason I use Distilled water is some tap water has iron in it or other contaminates and it will cause the barrel to turn out brown in stead of black. Distilled water won't do that. It only cost a dollar a gallon at BiMart, 2 gallons is plenty. I sand to 1 thousand grit but it probably isn't necessarily to sand that fine

M. E. Pering · « **Reply #11 on:** February 22, 2019, 08:31:44 AM »

I was negligent in mentioning that I am not trying for a beautiful finish like Smart Dog gets. I am trying for a finish that looks a bit more rustic. This is just that this is the finish I am trying for, not to diminish anyone else's finish. It really depends on what you are aiming for. You have to determine what look you are after. If you are aiming for perfection, Dave's finishes are beautiful.

Matt

Tim · « **Reply #12 on:** February 22, 2019, 04:04:52 PM »

Quote from: sdilts on February 22, 2019, 03:30:22 AM

Jerry,
How long do you boil it?

Do you use a 2 row or a 4 row wire wheel on your barrels?
I saw a wheel on brownells that has .0025 diameter wire.

smallpatch · « **Reply #13 on:** February 23, 2019, 01:48:48 AM »

That's the wire wheel to get. I think it's a Drixell, or something like that.

John Shaw · « **Reply #14 on:** February 24, 2019, 04:50:19 AM »

I have done quite a few barrels with LMF. To get more of a satin finish I use a damp box and leave the barrel in the box for 8-10 hours. It seems like it gets as dark as it's going to get with 10 minutes or so of boiling. I have noticed that it seems to have a shelf life after it's been opened and doesn't want to work too well after a year or so. I've found that the main trick is to not to put much on when wetting the barrel. I use a piece of lint free flannel as an applicator. I add the LMF to the flannel and then put it in a baggie for a few hours. This lets the solution spread and not get too dry. The less LMF I put on the better it works. I use a fine wire wheel at low rpm to card. From the above posts it looks like other guys are getting some real good results too.

JS

Tim · « **Reply #15 on:** March 25, 2019, 05:30:40 AM »

Quote from: smart dog on February 22, 2019, 01:19:36 AM

Hi,
It does if you boil the barrel before each carding.

dave

I want to blue the barrel and the tang as well.Should I remove the breech plug and blue it and the tang separate from the barrel?

jerrywh · « **Reply #16 on:** March 25, 2019, 05:46:10 AM »

I use the large 4 row brush at about 1250 rpm. The 150 rpm I posted before was a mistype.
the barrel on this sharps was done the same way as Smart dog described.
http://jwh-flintlocks.net/nez-perce-rifle-pg5.html

Daryl · « **Reply #17 on:** March 25, 2019, 06:04:14 AM »

This one of Taylor's rust blued - not quite as shiny, but quite smooth.

simile in stopping by woods on a snowy evening

free image hosting

Tim · « **Reply #18 on:** March 25, 2019, 08:09:34 AM »

Man those are some good looking barrels. I am going to order the 4 row brush from brownells.
Sounds like I will need to build a boiling trough of some kind as just scalding the barrel may not be enough. Should I remove the breech plug and tang or leave in on the barrel?

Kevin Houlihan · « **Reply #19 on:** March 25, 2019, 02:45:26 PM »

Tim,
When I rust blue barrels, I leave the breechplug attached. I also plug the touch hole with a toothpick and tap a dowel into the muzzle to plug it.
Kevin

Daryl · « **Reply #20 on:** March 25, 2019, 08:57:30 PM »

Here is Taylor's boiling tank set-up - stainless tank.

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Author Topic: Bluing with LMF browning solution (Read 7885 times)