Author Topic: Lock Oil (Read 2574 times)

Jerry · « **on:** May 23, 2019, 05:02:30 AM »

Hope this is the correct area for my question. Wanted to get recommendations for lock oil. Thanks, Jerry

Darkhorse · « **Reply #1 on:** May 23, 2019, 06:09:45 AM »

My favorite is Mobil 1 full synthetic. Just a drop or 2 on the notches.
Jim Chambers sells or sold a thin oil for locks. Works good I have a 1/2 bottle remaining.
Rem Oil. I have no complaints whatsoever with it.
I use grease for the mainspring, sear spring and frizzen spring.

EC121 · « **Reply #2 on:** May 23, 2019, 06:15:34 AM »

I spray the lock with G96. Then with a toothpick I put grease on everything and wipe off the excess.

G_T · « **Reply #3 on:** May 23, 2019, 07:17:56 AM »

Don't count what I'm saying here as worth anything.

I soak the lock with Ballistol and wipe it nearly all off. Like Darkhorse I also oil with Mobil 1 all moving parts. I think a quart lasts forever and is much cheaper than gun specific oils. RIG grease on sliding surfaces - sear to tumbler and mainspring to tumbler. Those places are under a lot of pressure.

I won't use Rem Oil any more. I found out the hard way that it does very slowly oxidize. Give it a decade left alone and it is slowly turning into a varnish. It's fine for anything actively being used.

Gerald

Fyrstyk · « **Reply #4 on:** May 23, 2019, 03:02:40 PM »

I use good old 3 in 1 oil in the warmer months, and powdered graphite in the colder months. I had a lock go sluggish on me during a biathlon shoot with the temps in the single digits due to oil in the lock getting stiff due to the cold.

Michigan Flinter · « **Reply #5 on:** May 23, 2019, 03:29:52 PM »

I use bear grease have no problem through out the year .a little goes a long way.

alyce-james · « **Reply #6 on:** May 23, 2019, 04:42:43 PM »

Jerry; Sir, this is the oil I have used since I shoot my first muzzleloader rifle. (1974). 2 oz PL oil, lubricating, preservative, light. Standard oil company, WW II surplus. Have a great day. AJ.

wmrike · « **Reply #7 on:** May 23, 2019, 04:47:31 PM »

I go thick on moving parts, either a waterproof silicone grease or that tacky STP. Anyone use way oil?

WadePatton · « **Reply #8 on:** May 23, 2019, 05:03:38 PM »

Use whatever you want because you'll get 100+ different recipes/techniques/lubricating compounds mentioned in this thread-if this thread resembles in any way at all the previous lock oil threads we've had.

I use bear grease/oil personally.

J.E. Moore · « **Reply #9 on:** May 23, 2019, 07:14:43 PM »

CLP break free and RIG. If it snow when I'm hunting I'll rub a pre oiled (bear oil) patch on the lock plate and barrel to recoat what I might have rubbed off carrying in the woods.

Daryl · « **Reply #10 on:** May 23, 2019, 07:30:00 PM »

Once a year, (if I remember) I put a smear of moly grease on the contact points of the tumbler. The rest of the year, the locks get sprayed with WD 40 every time I use them (after cleaning and drying). The grease seems to last the whole year, even on locks used 8 to 10 times. Good stuff, that moly grease.

Jim Chambers · « **Reply #11 on:** May 23, 2019, 09:19:36 PM »

The most important thing is to use some type of lubricant. You would not believe how many locks I see that have no lubrication what so ever. (and they wonder why the lock doesn't work) As L.C. Rice likes to tell guys, "There's only one thing that is self adjusting and self lubricating, and your lock ain't one of them."
On our locks we recommend a good quality oil for rotating parts and a good grease for sliding parts.

hanshi · « **Reply #12 on:** May 23, 2019, 11:29:13 PM »

Among the various lubricants on my bench are RIG grease and oil. There is also silicone grease and several types of lubrication oils. Rather than using the same thing all the time I just use whatever I pick up first. I always lube the lock internals but am careful not to overdo it. Even if they don't get shot for a good while, the guns get handled and the locks manipulated on a frequent basis.

curly · « **Reply #13 on:** May 24, 2019, 12:07:48 AM »

I use Dimond nanotube. It coats the surfaces with microscopic Dimond balls or particles that permanently imbed into the metal. It is no longer a metal to metal surface, but rather a Diamond to diamond. The oil is actually just a medium for spreading. Never wear out parts.

Nhgrants · « **Reply #14 on:** May 24, 2019, 12:16:02 AM »

I have been using Breakfree CO which is thicker as it is for long term storage and rig on the contact points

Daryl · « **Reply #15 on:** May 24, 2019, 01:46:58 AM »

I am intrigued with Curly's post, but think I'll stick with the moly.

WadePatton · « **Reply #16 on:** May 24, 2019, 04:56:00 AM »

Quote from: Daryl on May 24, 2019, 01:46:58 AM

I am intrigued with Curly's post, but think I'll stick with the moly.

.

'Tis a new one!

Knock me over with a feather. Wonder if I can afford it? [investigates the collective] Nope, not at 65 bucks for an ounce and seven tenths. Bicycle chain lube is the only product I found. Yes, it wouldn't take much.

And the only real test that might change me on that is Fletcher's Speed Trap, because you know if they'd had it they'd been using it!

Or I could dig out my antique can of Ms. Moly and paint the guts...

Waksupi · « **Reply #17 on:** June 12, 2019, 09:28:57 PM »

I use Ed's Red, for muzzleloaders and modern rifles. Recipe is on the net, it's cheap, and works.

John Shaw · « **Reply #18 on:** June 16, 2019, 06:28:10 AM »

What ever you use, and I don't think it matters all that much, a good way to make sure it all gets lubed is too put it on heavy and spray it off with high pressure air. That is if you have an air compressor of course.

JS

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Author Topic: Lock Oil (Read 2574 times)

J.E. Moore