Any pictures of aged GS??

[Justin Urbantas]

There is a pistol I want to build that is a copy of an original that was mounted in sterling silver. Unfortunately, the only castings I can seem to find are steel, brass, or German silver.  That is without getting waxes made, sending them to a foundry, and waiting who knows how long, and probably paying a small fortune.  I thought about either building it in GS, and aging the furniture, or doing it in steel with a French grey finish.  Does anyone have pictures of how aged GS looks, and suggestions on how to do it?  Or is it just not going to look close to actual silver? I have never really used GS. Thanks guys

[Hungry Horse]

Lost wax casting is relatively simple. Often art classes at junior colleges offer jewelry courses. They probably won’t like you casting gun parts, but most of them won’t know what you’re casting if you don’t tell them.

  Hungry Horse

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

German Silver polishes up very bright and shiny.  But when it ages, it turns darker, grey and sort of yellow, and is quite unappealing to put it mildly.  I suggest you go with brass or steel, and stay clear of GS.

[David Rase]

Like Taylor said, GS looks terrible once it tarnishes.  I do not know what your parts look like that you are trying to duplicate, but if it were me, and I wanted silver mounts, I would form all the pistol mounts from sterling silver sheet.
David     

[Joe S]

Justin - Why not cast it yourself? You're certainly capable of it.

[Justin Urbantas]

My other thought was to order a set in brass, and using them as patterns to try casting them in silver with delft clay.  These are what I need. 

[RAT]

The only part you show that can't be fabricated from sheet is the butt cap. Choose a different but cap and form from sheet. But expect to pay a couple of hundred dollars for the sterling sheet.

[smallpatch]

I'm sure GS can't compare with true silver, but it can be aged to look pretty fair.
Sorry, I don't have a closer view.

[Dave A]

"But when it ages, it turns darker, grey and sort of yellow, and is quite unappealing to put it mildly."

Depends on what alloy the G.S. is- no different than different brass alloys.  The cheaper lower nickel content are the ones that get that yellowish cast. I've machined a ton of the 18% alloy which stays pretty bright for a long time.

Obviously it does tarnish around BP fouling, but it's not any harder to bring back  than brass is.

[Daryl]

Dane- clicking on your picture twice, brings it up for a closeup.

[Pete G.]

You could finish out the parts in GS and then have them plated.

[Justin Urbantas]

You could finish out the parts in GS and then have them plated.

I had never thought of that!!! That's a great idea

[t.caster]

What tarnish? Here is a pic of the GS pistols I built for my dad in 1988 & 89, so they are 30 yrs. old and still look like new! The trigger guard & butt cap were cast GS, all else is cut from sheet. I just put a coat of furniture wax on them, maybe once a year.



Sorry, the color is off due to the lamplight.

[flehto]

My first LR built in 1977 has a GS cheek star and 8 {4 / side} escutcheons for wedges and none have a tarnish....Oxyoke 100 Plus is used on all the metal parts and stock  and perhaps is why there's no tarnish...but most yrs  the Oxyoke is only  applied  once or twice. The color is the same as when the GS parts were installed on the gun......Fred

[smallpatch]

I tarnished (aged) mine on purpose.