William & Powell

[mark brier]

Gentleman, I have always liked this William & Powell rifle that is shown in the book English Sporting Guns and Accessories. So decided to make a copy of it with some parts and pieces laying around the shop. For years I have had this 32-40 barrel and decided good enough. Use what you got right? Should shoot a paper patch just fine. So let’s start with the barrel. Barrel was definitely big and heavy so away to the lathe and milling attachment. Although not the best set up and definitely cagey but it’s what I have. Barrel was 1 1/16” at the breech. Milled the flats oversized to allow cleaning up all the mill marks. Barrel finished out with a 15/16” breech, tapered to 7/8” at the end of the octagon and tapered on down to .780” at the muzzle. Definitely cut some of the weight and made a better overall profile. I didn’t like the way the transition section was cutting so I will finish that by hand when I can get back to it. That’s all for now
Mark Brier

[Tim Crosby]

 Nicely done, look forward to following this.

   Tim C.

[mark brier]

Had a short amount of time today in the shop so decided to start on making a bullet mold for this rifle. Bullet will be paper patch. I realize now I got caught up in making and forgot some pictures of the steps. Took a scrap piece of steel and squared it all six side to each other. Then did some layout for the alignment pins to make sure they were not going to interfere or accidently be in the bullet cavity. I then drilled in steps the holes for the alignment pins. I then cut the block in half and faced both of those sides again. The now half of the block that keeps the pins I made a .001” press fit for the pins and opened up the other half to where the pins just slide in.  Need to cut the tails of the pins off and dress to block. Then it will be time to make the cherry and cut the mold.
Mark Brier

[mark brier]

Breaching and mould day. Cut breech off enough to just get rid of enough of the chambering to allow proper breaching of the plug. Then to the bullet mold. Being simple paper patch I was able drill with 2 modified drill bits to get rid of the bulk. Set up in four jaw chuck and indicated in. Tighten the chuck @!*% tight to prevent the two halves from pushing apart. The. I took some O1 and turned the bullet diameter I wanted. You can’t see it in the picture but the bearing surface is .550 long and then tapers towards the nose and rounds over. Then cut the bullet profile .002” shy of half, then stoned to exactly half its diameter and harden. In effect making a single flute reamer. I didn’t put quite enough radius on the one bit which cause it to not ream out perfectly, but I don’t think I am going to concern myself too much with it. Nose of the bullet will deform some when loading. Wire edges on mould need removed but that’s enough for today.
Mark Brier

[mark brier]

Ok, so it bothered me. Set it back up and ground the should of the tool back and went slightly deeper to clean it up. Good to go
Mark Brier

[snapper]

Enjoying your post Mark.  Looking forward to more.

Fleener

[mark brier]

Got the blocks mounted to some handle this evening and the sprue plate made and on. Need to finish the plate but got it to a point I could cast one and have a look. No I didn’t let the mold get up to temp, and it’s wrinkly, just wanted to knock one out real quick.
Mark Brier

[Daryl]

Cool! - the mould and/or lead as well, a bit too cool or oily.