Please recommend a non-petroleum bore protector.

[Skychief]

What would you recommend for a bore protector in a non- petroleum "flavor"?   For years now I have used a light coating of plain old Hoppes gunoil.   I am wondering if I am getting a little extra fouling from the use of it, though I try to clean and dry the bore well before shooting.   I have read here in another thread that the use of petroleum based patch lubes can cause an increase in fouling (which I can understand).   Again, my concern is using a petroleum-based bore coating (the Hoppes gunoil).   What non-petroleum bore protector do you highly recommend, or better yet, swear by?

[jim m]

Ballistol sportsmans oil, but I'm sure you will get almost as many opinions as there are members here 

[Pete G.]

I use Break Free CLP as a bore protector on the last cleaning patch. I think it is a synthetic but am not sure. I also use Balistol and water a patch lube, so fouling is never an issue anyway.

[Dphariss]

Just wash the bore out with denatured alcohol then dry before loading.
I have never used anything else but petroleum and have never noticed a problem in 40 odd years.
I wipe most oil from the bore after its been left muzzle down for a couple of hours before its put away.
I also use something lighter than most oils, G-96 Gun Treatment.

Dan

[LynnC]

I once upon a time used crisco as a bore protector and seemed to do OK, but it was a mess to wipe it out before shooting.

Now I clean with plain water,  wipe out mostly dry, shoot the WD40 to it (plenty), push it out the vent, wipe out the excess and put away.  Bore stays bright and shiney.

Load and shoot next time out - Easy, no pre shoot degreasing........................Lynn

[Dphariss]

I once upon a time used crisco as a bore protector and seemed to do OK, but it was a mess to wipe it out before shooting.

Now I clean with plain water,  wipe out mostly dry, shoot the WD40 to it (plenty), push it out the vent, wipe out the excess and put away.  Bore stays bright and shiney.

Load and shoot next time out - Easy, no pre shoot degreasing........................Lynn

I found the when using Neatsfoot oil on the patches that having WD 40 present made starting and seating the ball difficult. Seemed to act as an anti-lube.
Also when hunting I don't like risking having anything in the bore that might hurt the powder over the course of a several days or a week.

Dan

[Skychief]

Not to hijack my own thread, but.....when you suggest using WD-40 in this way, I am reminded of a friend.   This friend will swear that WD-40 should NEVER see the inside of a rifle's barrel.   He once caught me preserving a revolver's bore with it and tore into me for it.    He must have been convincing, as I never used it again for bore protection (though I had used it for years with no ill effects in smokeless guns).

[Roger Fisher]

Ballistol!  Works for me; but not in the lock innards!~

[Maven]

While Ballistol's good, Hoppe's #9 is better and Marvel Mystery Oil works about as well as Hoppe's.  The latter two smell better than Ballistol too.  As for WD-40, I use it, but it becomes gummy after awhile.

[LynnC]

Evidently way back 20 - 30+ years ago, WD40 was not so kind to bore surfaces so I've been told.

Seems to be different know.  I'd always heard no petroleum in the bore.

The Canadians here were extolling the virtues of WD40 and I was tired of wiping out greases and oils prior to shooting so I decided to give it a try.

I've had Zero problems using it.  Bore bright and Shiny, Breech plug face too!

I wouldn't use it for long term (Years) storage, but a week to a month is OK.

[LynnC]

PW,
Where does the WD become "gummy after a while"?  Spray down bore, push excess out vent, wipe out & Rack it.  It seems to dry out leaving a super thin film on the bore surface.  For short term storage it works for me.  Never found anything to gum up.  Have used in my muzzle loaders for several years now.

If you talkin modern bolt actions - could be a different story.  I don't know cause I use gun oil on them...................Lynn

[Frank]

PW,
Where does the WD become "gummy after a while"?  Spray down bore, push excess out vent, wipe out & Rack it.  It seems to dry out leaving a super thin film on the bore surface.  For short term storage it works for me.  Never found anything to gum up.  Have used in my muzzle loaders for several years now.

If you talkin modern bolt actions - could be a different story.  I don't know cause I use gun oil on them...................Lynn

I have been doing the exact same thing for over 30 years. Never any hint of rust and not gummy.

[Dphariss]

While Ballistol's good, Hoppe's #9 is better and Marvel Mystery Oil works about as well as Hoppe's.  The latter two smell better than Ballistol too.  As for WD-40, I use it, but it becomes gummy after awhile.

Hoppe's #9 contains alcohol and thus surely has a percentage of water in it.
Its a cleaner, not a preservative.

Dan

[BPB]

Don't listed to the non petrol comments
A large majority of lubes now days are synthetic so the non pertol argument is ancient talk.
I find that the shooters tend to not clean before shooting which is what casues their mis-fire problems.
 
 Hoppes is a good protectant.
Just wipe out with alcohol prior to shooting. I use CRC Power Lube on everything from my truck to firearms.
 One lube does it all.
 I've been working off the one gallon for 6 years now.

bpb

[Skychief]

Thanks for all your thoughts guys!

[hanshi]

I've found Hoppes #9 to be a super patch lube and have used it in the cleaning process after a day shooting (along with soapy water).  WD40 is great for the bore after cleaning & drying with patches.  I always swab the bore with a gun oil, though, even after using the WD40.  It seems that the carrier in WD40, which makes it such a good penetrating oil, evaporates fairly quickly leaving only a very small amount of oil behind.  For rust protection more oil is needed than is provided by WD40.  While WD40 also cleans the bore and protects somewhat against rust, If the gun is to be stored more than a few days a heavier oil should be used.

[Daryl]

Length of time stored has a direct effect on what 'oil' is needed for the bore. I stored a rifle for 8 years, with no more than the normal drying, then WD 40 flush, then wiping out with 1 patch - result was 0 rust.  The humidity in the lockup was probably never over 50% and most likely not over 40% for the duration. At Dixon's, I saw barrels gaining rust in a day with the higher humidity there- granted they probably weren't oiled, but rusting they were.

[erdillonjr]

I have used WD 40 since 79 and have no problems . Ed

[Roger Fisher]

Back around the late 70's (1970's) I had a long rifle in percussion mode that I used wd-40 in the bore and had to wipe the rust stain out of the bore in mid week 'tween 'shoots.  She was well dried b/4 the wd was introduced in to the bore.  I mentioned this at a shoot and good ol Leon Buck took the WD-40 can outta my box and threw it off in to the woods> I took that to mean don't use it.  I didn't!!!

That was then this is now!

[Waksupi]

I like a lanolin bore protectant. Fluid Film, available from implement dealers is very good long term protection.
If you have never looked at "Ed's Red", give it a Google, and mix up a batch of this. It contains lanolin. It is what I have used for years, as I am an incurable do-it-yourself type. I use it on the lock internals, barrel, and a complete outside wipe after cleaning. 
Best thing about this, is you can make yourself a gallon+ of top quality firearms oil for around $15.

[Daryl]

Ed Harris's "Ed's Red" must have changed formulas over the years if it has lanolin in it? It is a smokeless powder solvent - good one indeed - kerosene, mineral spirits, auto-tranny oil and a touch of acetone. Works without the acetone but is slower. Claim to fame is good powder solvent, slow and poor on copper, will put the clean barrel fouling shot into the group - which works on cue most of the time.  I've not seen the formula with lanolin.  I'd not use it in my muzzleloading rifles, however if wiped out well before loading and shooting, would be OK as an an after cleaning oil.

Any of the gun oils should be as good maybe better as a preserver.  Bear oil/grease works fine but modern stuff is better.  I'd be using the newer Hoppe's 9 Plus if I had some.

[hanshi]

Again, I agree that Hoppes #9 Plus and any of the good, modern gun oils is the way to go.  I've been using Hoppes as a patch lube and sometimes in the cleaning process for over two years.  The longer I use it the more I like it.  If you consider all the many excellent, modern gun oils available, most any choice will be a good one. 

Some like to use "old timey" sounding preservatives such as bear grease, hog lard, etc.  Though such lubes are reported to be very satisfactory, the only advantage I see is that they are way, way better than the costly "bore butters" & stuff.  Stay away from those.  Technology has given us a much better way of protecting our valuable arms.