2 Questions: ID Barrel Size, Bending brass tiggerguard

[Cossack]

Two dumb new guy questions:

Question 1:
This is a swamped .50 Caliber barrel. I don't have it in my possession. Would you estimate that to be a "B" or "C" weight? Does it look like it would be safe to have bored out to a .54 by someone like Bobby Hoyt? Obviously it would depend on the depth of the dovetails, but based on what you see here, does that seem in the realm of possibility?


Question 2:
Is there a safe way to bend a brass triggerguard without causing damage to the gun?
See below: There's a gap between the upward curving spur behind the trigger and the stock itself. Could that be tapped with a mallet to close the gap and to help the handgrip more closely follow the contour of the stock? Or would that risk damage to the wood where it's pinned?

It would be easier to bend safely if removed from the gun, but then I assume I wouldn't be able to line it up with the inletting and holes.

Obviously this might necessitate trimming or bending the trigger, but that's not as big an issue for me.

[smallpatch]

The person that would have to decide that would be Bobby Hoyt.
In my opinion, it should be fine, but like stated, there are other things to consider.
As for the triggerguard, ..... if you bend it more, it will shorten the guard, then the inlets will no longer fit or the pins line up.
You could stretch it some, but a real pain, with lots of things to go wrong.
Don't mean to be a downer, sorry.

[Stophel]

That looks like one of the investment cast brass guards, which are pretty springy and hard to bend.

You'll have to take it out of the stock, clamp the front tenon in the vise and bend the triggerguard bow in.... you will then have to bend the grip rail and the rear mount to get it all back where it should be... it will be frustrating and not easy to do.  Heat may be required.  Have fun! 

[rich pierce]

Bending the grip rail would essentially shorten the guard making it not fit the inlets anymore as suggested.

It would take a good deal of expertise and luck to first lengthen the rail by perming with a cross peen hammer then bending the rail closer to the wrist and end up at the current length. As said, lots could go wrong.

[smylee grouch]

Is the back of the guard,grip rail pinned or screwed to the stock?

[Cossack]

This one is screwed. I had the same question about another rifle that was pinned, but I ended up selling it.

[Stophel]

You MAY be able to persuade it by whacking it with a rubber or wood mallet while it is in the gun.  Again, depends on how springy it is.  Sand cast brass would probably bend, no problem, but investment cast stuff is definitely stiffer and more stubborn.

Actually, if you do this, take the trigger and triggerplate out and put the guard back on.  Clamp the front end of the triggerguard finial down with a C clamp first (pad everything with bits of wood or leather or something, of course), because tapping down at the rear of the triggerguard bow will tend to want to spring the  front end of the finial out.  Then give it some light taps.... harder if necessary, but not too hard, obviously.  I think that will do what you need it to do.  Matter of fact, I think that's how I would do it, myself (I cannot stand to see the rear curl of the triggerguard bow far away from the stock!)

Just don't hold me responsible if you break something! 

[Cossack]

You MAY be able to persuade it by whacking it with a rubber or wood mallet while it is in the gun.  Again, depends on how springy it is.  Sand cast brass would probably bend, no problem, but investment cast stuff is definitely stiffer and more stubborn.

Actually, if you do this, take the trigger and triggerplate out and put the guard back on.  Clamp the front end of the triggerguard finial down with a C clamp first (pad everything with bits of wood or leather or something, of course), because tapping down at the rear of the triggerguard bow will tend to want to spring the  front end of the finial out.  Then give it some light taps.... harder if necessary, but not too hard, obviously.  I think that will do what you need it to do.  Matter of fact, I think that's how I would do it, myself (I cannot stand to see the rear curl of the triggerguard bow far away from the stock!)

Just don't hold me responsible if you break something! 

This is exactly what I was thinking. But I was very nervous about actually trying it. Well, if I get brave enough to try it, I will take full responsibility for the outcome!

[Stophel]

Clamp that front finial down (barrel in stock), and it will take all the strain off the tenon and pin.  Can't really clamp the rear, but the screw should hold it well enough.  I actually don't think you'll have any problems damaging anything, but that guard may or may not want to bend easily.

You may even be able to squeeze it in just with your hands.  Worth a try.

It would also be prudent to attempt to anneal it down first, before doing anything.  Heat it to dull red, just BARELY glowing in dim/no light, and then quench in water.  You can also just let it sit on a brick or something and cool naturally.

[Mike Brooks]

I'll answer your barrel question. Depends on the size of the breech. With a .54 you might get by with 15/16 to an 1". There is some concern at the waist as well. call Hoyt and give him the dimensions of the breech and waist and he'll tell you if he can do it or not. On custom barrels I have from Bob He rarely follows standard "A,B,C or D"profiles And that's what Is so cool about Hoyt, his stuff doesn't look like it came fro Colerain....

Oh man is it early, I couldn't even read this after I typed it.

[Hungry Horse]

 Another consideration is how, and where, is the barrel lugs attached? Are they dovetailed, of staples? Dovetails are easy to measure the depth of, staples not so much.

  Hungry Horse

[Clint]

In regards to the trigger guard, I would dismount everything in the trigger area and start back by putting the rear tang in and screwing it down. Very possible that it's not fully inletted. With the rear tang in, observe the attitude of the front tang. also make sure that the screw in the rear tang is not pulling things out of place. If it is plug the hole in the stock and re drill for the screw. If you need to bent the guard, make two bending forks from some 1/4 " round steel or a scrap chain link. one fork goes in your vice and the other is held tightly wit6h vice grips. Very accuate bending can be done with forks.
CW

[Not English]

No comments as to Barrel. I've always gone with the smallest profile available for the bore size. Trigger guard - You can do  almost anything if you anneal it first. The more work you do the harder it will get due to work hardening. You may have to anneal it more than once.

Dave