.32 Ramrods & Tips?

[Smokey Plainsman]

Hello guys! About the only thing cementing my next choice of rifle as being a .32 caliber is the thin ramrod.

As a traditionalist, I cannot bring myself to use a ramrod other than wood to carry in the gun’s pipes. I know the .32 uses a thin rod. I’ve read some say 1/4” while others say 5/16”. I am wondering, is it safe to load a .32 with a wooden ramrod using short strokes? I’ve read many say they’re much more prone to snapping.

Also, I’m a fan of traditional tow worms. Patches and jags are a more modern invention from my research. I use an iron tow worm and tow for my .40 caliber rifle, but I have found nobody makes them for the little .32s. Did original .32 caliber or similar very small caliber rifles use tow worms? If not, how did the old timers clean them?

Thanks all!

[MuskratMike]

First of all finish crowning the barrel or in my opinion cone the barrel (makes loading the balls much easier). Make a short starter and use it if you don't cone the barrel. The ramrod size will be somewhat based on the thimbles you have on your rifle. If you go with the Kibler kit your ramrod will be provided and that decision becomes moot. Short strokes it goes without saying are to be used on all wood ramrods.

[Daryl]

Once you have the ball down the length of the short starter's long rod, short strokes is what gets
the patched ball down to the powder. Lift the rod slighlty off the ball, an inch or so, then down the
5 to 10" of the stroke, then up and down again and again until it's on the powder.
Shoot me your e-mail in a PM and I'll send you a short video on this method.
With my .32 barrel, I used a 5/16" rod. Currently I am using a 5/16" rod tapered to 1/4" with the .36 bl.
These small calibres load so easily, it's a POC.  (piece of cake)

[Mike from OK]

I've only broken 2 ramrods throughout my muzzleloading "career"...

The first was a 7/16 hickory rod that I split down the middle. My fault. Poor technique. Luckily it didn't pierce my hand.

The second one was the 5/16 ramrod that came with my .32 Pedersoli. Not my fault... It was the factory rod and was a POC (NOT a piece of cake) I replaced it with a 5/16 hickory rod from Track and have had no issues whatsoever since then.

Technique is important. Short strokes that don't bow the rod are key.

If you're ordering the Kibler kit then I expect you'll have no worries. I've never met or done business with Jim Kibler... But his reputation for quality is well known. I expect that you will receive a good quality hickory rod.

A quality hickory rod and proper technique should keep you trouble free.

I'm not much help concerning tow worms and cleaning jags... I bought the little corkscrew patch worm from Track for my .32. I've only used it once or twice to retrieve a patch lost off my jag.

Mike

[Smokey Plainsman]

Very cool, thanks y’all!

Daryl, I use a stroking method exactly as you describe.

So given a good hickory rod and proper technique it’s mostly a non issue? With so many reports of people snapping the thin ramrods for .32s I was worried. Seems it’s probably more down to operator error.

I recently coned the muzzle of my .40 with Joe Wood’s coning tool and love the results. I would be coning a .32 if I get one.

I need to do more research on ramrod tips for the .32. Wonder what our forefathers used to clean there bores? I don’t recall seeing any modern makers doing up traditional tow worms in calibers smaller than .40. I also recall reading patches and jags are a more modern thing.

What would folks have used in the early 1800s to clean the bores of their small caliber flintlock rifles? 

[hanshi]

I can't really add much to the excellent comments already posted; so I'll just emphasize a few.  Yes, those little rods are easier to break than larger ones.  This is why a good hickory rod is preferred.  Polishing the crown and using short strokes with the rod will get you set up for safe loading.  I've also found that the tiny .32 & .36 prb DO seat more easily than larger bores when soft lead is used.  I do use a ss range rod at the range occasionally but find the wood rod easier to use.  Just remember to really choke up on that teeny rod.

[Fyrstyk]

I have a old Gibbons .32 (1845) that still has the original ram rod.  There are "cork screw" like grooves in the end that I can only assume were there from the use of a tow worm.  They must have made small tow worms in the day, but i have never seen one, and I have attended many rendezvous and trade fairs.  I just took a heavy spring and stretched it out to fit the grooves in the ram rod.  Works good for dragging a piece of tow thru the bore.

[Bob McBride]

I have a old Gibbons .32 (1845) that still has the original ram rod.  There are "cork screw" like grooves in the end that I can only assume were there from the use of a tow worm.  They must have made small tow worms in the day, but i have never seen one, and I have attended many rendezvous and trade fairs.  I just took a heavy spring and stretched it out to fit the grooves in the ram rod.  Works good for dragging a piece of tow thru the bore.

That’s exactly what was used there.

[Crow Boy]

For a tow worm for the .32, contact Rich McDonald.  See photo for contact info.   This is the .32 tow worm he made for me and it works well.   

[smylee grouch]

Do your self a favor and shoot some before and after targets, before coning with a nice smooth crown and then after you have coned the muzzle. I dont think the ease of loading will be that much less work.

[Daryl]

I found the opposite with loading harder in a coned muzzle, but that was with bore sized balls and .022" denim patch.
They loaded easily in the crowned muzzle, but difficult, almost impossible in the coned muzzle. This was in a .40 cal. bl.

[Hawken62_flint]

A 5/16 rod should fit perfectly , and that is what I use. If you soak it in diesel fuel for about a week,  it will probably never break. Especially if you use the method described above using short strokes. Where you get into trouble is holding high up on the rod, giving it room to flex and then break.

[smallpatch]

I hate to put a slam on an old wives tail, but here goes.
First of all, in the old days it,was kerosene.
Soaking a hickory rod in diesel fuel, will make it smell like diesel fuel...... that's all. 
There is NOTHING chemically that will make a wood rod more flexible in diesel fuel.
There, I've said it, now I'll be quiet.

[B.Barker]

Split hickory rods are the best for small caliber guns. If you have a split rod there is no run out to cause it to be weak and more likely to break.

[David Rase]

Split hickory rods are the best for small caliber guns. If you have a split rod there is no run out to cause it to be weak and more likely to break.

Brian is exactly right.  I have a .29 caliber rifle that was made by Frank House, Tom Hall and Jeff Cline that I have owned for probably 20 years.  The little 1/4" split hickory ramrod works well.  I have not had any issues loading this rifle as long as I give it the respect a small caliber rifle deserves, such as short strokes and not overly tight patch and ball combos.  Also, a split hickory ramrod is not perfectly straight so the little crooks in the ramrod help keep it secure in the gun and you do not have swelling problems like you do with a straight dowel type ramrod. 
David

[Daryl]

Further to that, since I changed the barrel on my squirrel rifle to a .36, I didn't change the rod. Still using the 5/16" tapered to about 1/4" & it works a treat.
After putting the ball 5" down the tube with the short starter's long shaft, pushing it the rest of the way is a 2-finger operation on the rod. That is with a
.020" denim patch and .350" ball. What could be easier?  This barrel loads easier than my .32 did, but it had wide lands and very narrow grooves, yet it
was easy as well. That is with both water based lube and oil. My barrels are totally smooth inside, not greebly-pits from cleaning with hot water.