Coarse 1770s Checkering

[smart dog]

Hi Guys,
I am about to checker the wrist of my officer's fusil using the coarse style of the 1770s and early 1780s.  I own an original with that style and have viewed many other examples.  I am seeking advice from those who have done this. It appears the checkering was cut with a little saw rather than a modern style checkering cutter and do you recommend checkering after finish is applied and cured?

dave 

[Craig Wilcox]

Dave, I have done coarse checkering in the past, at 10 lpi.   I did use a checkering tool, a 90 degree cutter, but left the tops flat.  I can well imagine how much crisper it would have been if I had used something like a slim X-Acto modeling saw - I think it would have been a lot truer on the 1873 firearm I was working on.
And every time that I have done checkering, I have done it on a finished firearm.  When the job was complete, I would use an old tooth brush and brush finish into the checkering.
But on these beautiful longrifles, I have been wondering about the stain, and if you are going to be using AF, for example, how one might protect the existing finish around the checkered area.  Masking tape?  Really don't know.
I do know that checkering on raw wood is very difficult, with tear-outs and such.  The finish makes the surface of the wood much more durable, and easier to stand up to the cutter, be it a checkering tool or a saw.
Maybe you have a tenon saw, or something with very fine teeth that you might experiment with.  Let me know how it goes, so "I" don't have to be the experimenter!

[Greg Pennell]

Dave, if I remember correctly I’ve seen saw-like checkering cutters in Monty Kennedy’s “Checkering and Carving Gunstocks”. Lots of the old time stock makers made their own checkering tools, when that book was written. Might be worth a look if you have it in your library. If not, I’ll dig mine out and see if I can find them.

Greg

[smart dog]

Hi Greg and Craig,
Thanks.  I have a copy of Kennedy.  This style of checkering was not done with angled cutters and the coarseness is often 5 or 6 lines per inch with decorative dots and or lines within each diamond.  Someone familiar with English fowlers from the 1770s and early 1780s will know what I mean.

dave 

[rich pierce]

I recall Taylor doing that sort of checkering (I think he called it diapering) on a Ferguson rifle.


Here’s where you should look. I found it in a search https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=33571.0

[Daryl]

Did it look something like this, Rich?
I am afraid the only way to enlarge that picture is to press the ctrl button and the + as many times as you want.
Pressing the ctrl button and 0 will return the page to your normal size.
You can also enlarge the picture by using the CRTL button and the scroll button on your mouse, but you likely knew that.

[rich pierce]

Yep Daryl, I remembered that gun.

[Goo]

I've been told this coarse checkering was done with files.

[Curtis]

Dave, I think a tool for flat bottom checkering would be just the ticket.  I made one from some forged out tool steel.  I seem to remember you posted a photo of one you made a few years back.

Curtis

[flatsguide]

You might try grinding the set off of a fine tooth hack saw blade. One could try a pull stroke cut on a scrap piece of wood. My two cents on the subject.
Cheers Richard

[J-team]

Like this:
 

[smart dog]

Hi,
Thanks guys.  I remember Taylor's gun and thanks for the link, Rich. Curtis, I think you are right.  Either a little saw or a flat cutter like J-team shows.  I made some like that for a New England rifle but I'll have to make one with more aggressive and deeper cutters. I'll experiment with files too but they may be too coarse and are awkward to use around the curved wrist. My other key question is it is better to put finish on and let it cure before doing the checkering like I d0 the later finer checkering?  Much of the old checkering I've seen was filled in with finish but that could be from later stock refinishing.

dave 

[alacran]

Hello Dave I was inspired to do that type of checkering by Schipper's book on engraving. I did this on the fowler I made for myself this winter. Took me far longer to lay it out than to actually do it. I used a flexcut 1/16 veiner to lightly cut the lines then I deepend them and trued them with a Dembart checkering tool. Less than perfect but overall I'm pleased with the results.

[ericxvi]

   I have always checkered after the base coat of finish is applied and pores are filled [wet sanded with 600g].
The final finish is then applied. 25 yrs of stockmaking experience, mostly walnut. Maple presents problems because of the stain.

[Jim Kibler]

This is just conjecture, but can't imagine original work being finished first for this type of checkering.  In my mind it would be treated as ordinary carving.

Jim

[T*O*F]

My Dad was a tool and die maker and I ended up with his Disston die sinkers.  I lay out my lines and get them started with a Dembart veiner.  Then I deepen them with one of these.  Some have teeth only on the leading edge and some on the sides as well.  They are almost straight sided so they don't file points.  Especially good for flat top checkering.
Click on the pic twice to see fine detail.

[Curtis]

My other key question is it is better to put finish on and let it cure before doing the checkering like I d0 the later finer checkering? 
dave

Dave, In my limited experience, I would never attempt to checker without a good hard finish on the wood, even if that is not PC.  I have done some practice on raw wood and didn't like the results.  I like LMF sealer because it penetrates deeply and hardens well and in a few hours.  I have even put some on the wood in softer, punky areas part way through the checkering job and let it harden before continuing, it really firms up the wood.  Add some a few drops of LMF maple stain for nice color.

Curtis

[wmrike]

I have an old Manton that is checkered at about 10 lpi.  The cuts are v thin.  The comments about saws took me by surprise, but that seems about right.  What I cannot figure out is how one would use or extend that technique to get close to borders or work in corners.  My thought for replicating such checkering would be to use a 60-degree pointer, but I think even that would be a bit wide of the original.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

When one chequers to a border or into a corner, one should not try to cut right to the border but stop short by about 1/16" or so.  then the line is finished by pulling a cutter from the border line into the chequered line.  Likewise, a 60 degree parting tool as sold by DemBart can be effective to finishing up those lines to the borders.

[smart dog]

Hi,
Thanks to everyone.  Your help is much appreciated and I am paying attention. 

dave     

[Waksupi]

If you are working with soft wood, get some Minwax wood hardener.