Author Topic: "clocking" a hammer  (Read 1714 times)

Offline Scota4570

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"clocking" a hammer
« on: May 29, 2020, 06:44:06 AM »
I am at the point where I need to mount my hammer on my tumbler. I have heard of using solder to get an impression.   This lock rebuild involved a new tumbler, new plate, new screws, it all came out good. I want to get it right the first time.   The tumbler shaft is still very long.  Any other ideas?

Offline Curtis

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Re: "clocking" a hammer
« Reply #1 on: May 29, 2020, 07:36:57 AM »
You could use a bit of modeling clay, then scribe through the clay along a straightedge to mark your square for a more permanent reference. 

Curtis
Curtis Allinson
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Sometimes, late at night when I am alone in the inner sanctum of my workshop and no one else can see, I sand things using only my fingers for backing

Offline rich pierce

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Re: "clocking" a hammer
« Reply #2 on: May 29, 2020, 07:46:05 AM »
I drill a round hole in the cock or hammer where the square hole will be.  Make the hole just undersized so when you file the square you’ll be good. Then I screw the cock down using the screw into the tumbler axle. Get it tight. No mainspring but yes to other internals. Then I “time” it for where it needs to be at rest. I know where I want the toe of the tumbler to be with the shoulder of the cock down on the plate. On a percussion lock it’s a little trickier. Hold the tumbler still and turn/slip the cock or hammer to make it timed right.   Now double check half and full cock. 

Now the tricky part- marking it. IF the square shaft of the tumbler axle is long you can slide a thin blade in there to scratch around and mark the backside of the cock.
Andover, Vermont

Offline David Rase

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Re: "clocking" a hammer
« Reply #3 on: May 29, 2020, 07:59:49 AM »
What Rich said.
David

Offline James Wilson Everett

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Re: "clocking" a hammer
« Reply #4 on: May 29, 2020, 02:29:40 PM »
Guys,

This procedure is seen in a series of photos in the topic"Making a Gunlock".

https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=26825.msg344086#msg344086

Jim

Offline rich pierce

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Re: "clocking" a hammer
« Reply #5 on: May 29, 2020, 04:00:17 PM »
Guys,

This procedure is seen in a series of photos in the topic"Making a Gunlock".

https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=26825.msg344086#msg344086

Jim

Well worth revisiting
Andover, Vermont

Offline Pukka Bundook

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Re: "clocking" a hammer
« Reply #6 on: May 29, 2020, 04:02:04 PM »
Chaps,

I've often thought what a Good idea the Lovell way of attaching a hammer/cock was!




Offline P.W.Berkuta

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Re: "clocking" a hammer
« Reply #7 on: May 29, 2020, 08:30:48 PM »
Make one of these


"The person who says it cannot be done should not interrupt the person who is doing it." - Chinese proverb

Offline rich pierce

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Re: "clocking" a hammer
« Reply #8 on: May 29, 2020, 10:07:21 PM »
Make one of these



So set things up with this then lay it over the real hammer or cock and line up the square that way?
Andover, Vermont

Offline Pukka Bundook

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Re: "clocking" a hammer
« Reply #9 on: May 30, 2020, 04:46:16 PM »
Metalshaper PM'd me re. the Lovell method of hammer attachment.
Sorry a bit tied up to write back right now, but will later Johnathan!

George Lovell worked on British percussion arms, inc. the P '41 Sapper's and Miner's carbine. 
His hammer attachment method was to use a Round tumbler shaft and Round hole in hammer, and a V snug fit, With a hole drilled between the pair, so half the hole is in each, wherein a peg is fitted tightly.  A normal cock /hammer retaining screw is used, and covers the peg completely, so without the hammer screw removed, it is impossible to tell if this peg, or the normal square is used.
It was very well liked by British Ordnance, as the always remain tight and from our perspective, are a Lot easier to make and fit!  (And index correctly!)

Here is a lousy picture, the only one I could find in my haste this morn;

Richard.


Offline Scota4570

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Re: "clocking" a hammer
« Reply #10 on: May 30, 2020, 07:46:07 PM »
Good ideas and advice, thank you.

My tumbler shaft is still round and much longer than needed.  The hammer will come with a square hole cast in it.  My current plan is to taper the end of the  round shaft so  it fits in the square hole.  I can then use Dykem on the shaft, mount the hammer on the shaft and observe the places it touches the four flats of the hammer.  Then cut flats on the tumbler shaft.