Shop Stump Prep for Anvil

[elkhorne]

I am trying to get my basic blacksmithing equipment set up. I acquired a nice Peter Wright anvil several months ago no have been trying to locate an appropriate stump to mount it onto with no luck until last week. A neighbor cut down several large oak and pine trees down and I acquired a stump from each about 24" high and almost level. My question is how should I prepare and preserve these stumps? I am going to try my final leveling with a belt sander and am wondering if I need to seal the top and bottom with some form of spar varnish like you would on a stock blank. Also, is it best to leave the bark on these stumps or remove it? Loki g to some of you all that have been there, done this and got the tee shirt from your experience! Thanks.
elkhorne

[snapper]

I simply cut my stump with a chain saw, and put it in the shop.  It is still there and functions perfectly.  Mine is bark off, but that is simply because the bark had slumped off before I cut the stand.  My stump also functions as a place to stick 3 hawks and a knife when they are not being thrown.

Fleener

[PPatch]

Remove the bark asap, it is easier to do when the wood is freshly cut. Sealing the ends is entirely up to you. sealing will slow the release of moisture and perhaps prevent any major cracking.

dp

[Shovelbuck]

I've never gone to much work other than cut square and attach anvil, but here's what a local smith does here.................
http://www.blksmth.com/Anvi_base_preparation.htm

[KentSmith]

My forge is outside covered on two sides and overhead.  I found some old creosote and sealed the bottom of an oak stump because I put it 6 inches in the ground, leveled and left the top cut from the chain saw because I eventually burn a slight depression in the wood for making ladles and such.  Also helps working butt plates.  The stump is large enough for my anvil and a depression plus a few odds and ends I am using at a given time.  This stump is 12 years old.  Am looking for another couple, one for my son's anvil and one for a swage block I picked up.  Need to find a large oak recently cut.

[Dave Patterson]

I've never gone to much work other than cut square and attach anvil, but here's what a local smith does here.................
http://www.blksmth.com/Anvi_base_preparation.htm

That's an EXCELLENT short course in prepping a stump for an anvil.

I've tried pretty hard to wear out quite a few anvils of different types and sizes, mounted on a variety of different stands; in my never-humble opinion, it's purty hard to beat a stump.

My PW shop anvil is mounted on an oak stump; didn't do a thing to prep it, other than saw it off plumb/level, top and bottom, with a misery whip.  The chunk I chose was the base three feet of the trunk, beginning right above the root-lift (given the multiple twists in the grain, it's not real prone to splitting); it had already pre-seasoned for several years, with the bark off.

Once sawed off plumb and level, I wrapped it with a couple 2" wide steel bands (bolted tight); welded some 1/2-round loops to the top band for frequently used tongs and hammers; and strapped the anvil base to the top deck of the stump.

Good enough for this ol' hoof-butcher... but then again, I don't do any super-heavy ironwork anymore, either:  no "smith and striker" work.

Having wrecked my wrists and elbows several decades ago, working with anvils too high and hammer handles too long for me, I'd strongly suggest you put some serious thought into anvil height:  it has far more effect on the quality of your work than it first seems.

[David R. Pennington]

I would choose oak over pine. The pine smoke is harder on your nose and eyes when a hot piece of iron falls on it and starts to burn. I would knock off the bark so insects can't hide under it. I would at least paint the bottom if it's going to sit on the ground. My current one is poplar because it was handy. I painted both ends. I agree about getting the hieght so it is comfortable.

[heelerau]

I use a big old white gum stump,  just cut one that was not to big a diameter to be too awkward, and forged some staples to hold down my anvil.  I might add whosoever added this image adder did a great job thanks !!

[tippit]

If your stump isn't perfectly flat, just take two wood wedges where it is low.  That will firm it right up. You may need to tap them in every now and then...but there is usually a hammer or five right there.  I keep my anvil on the stump with two 1/2 cut horse shoes formed to the base and don't bother to chain it down.  Or weld up a 3 legged stand that will always sit flat.

[Darrin McDonal]

If you can, sink the stump into the ground. Here in the Gunsmith shop the stump is sunk into the ground at least a foot. The anvil is 250# and is chained down very tight. It is absolutely dead solid. Its not always possible as we all know however.
Darrin

[David R. Pennington]

Yes I wish mine was in the ground, I tend to chase the anvil around when working pieces around the horn as it walks a bit.

[B.Habermehl]

Set your stump and anvil in a sand box. No more wobble and chase. I did this in my old shop. BJH

[Dave Patterson]

Set your stump and anvil in a sand box. No more wobble and chase. I did this in my old shop. BJH

Two big thumbs-up for the sand box under the anvil:  not only stabilizes everything, but it's foot-friendly for the 'smith, and provides a nice, safe, "dead" floor under your anvil, to catch all the slag, hardy cut-offs, etc, that you REALLY don't want bouncing and skittering around your shop, looking for a nice tinder bed.

[Machinist John]

A tip, if you are using a wood stand, cut back the tops of the wood as shown in the photo.  Now you do not have a ledge for hot embers to sit and smolder.

This is a 196 pounder, it will soon be transferred to my new black smith shop and sit on a fir log planted in the ground like a fence post.

[Maineshops]

This is my angel and post vice set up. 18in birch log seizing  on a dolly with steal casters. Metal ring around the log to hold all the junk in the shop. Since I’m not a blacksmith I can roll it out of the way when not in use, the vise gets as much use as the anvil. An vil is Hay
Burden out of New York I believe. Works well for me. Dan

[tiswell]

On the bottom mark off three equal distant  pads on the periphery of the log. Take a chainsaw and lower everything else by a  quarter of an inch. It won't rock more than a three legged stool.

[Frank Barker]

I just bought a 55 lb anvil from a friend of mine that looks like it has never been used. I am not a Blacksmith and will only use it for small jobs. I plan on cutting 4 two foot pieces from a 6 X 6 and gluing and clamping them together in a square. I will cut 1 x 3's and screw or nail them around the bottom and top to strengthen the whole base. I can then mount my anvil with straps or clamp it to the base...
Kind Regards
Frank Barker