Constructive Criticism please

[MGillman]

I have started making a few horns here and there. Any tips and ideas would be great or if there are some better tools I could be using besides hand files and sand paper. I don’t have a big shop and usually buy my parts from powder horns anymore.com. I have just confiscated a lathe from my father to start turning some.

[Robby]

On the first horn pictured, the natural curve of the horn is interrupted making it look like a double bulge in the hose. I see this a lot and maybe just me but I don't like the look. I spend a great deal of time making sure any part of the horn that is undercut follows the natural curve, no bulge. This is meant as constructive, and others may disagree.
Robby

[MGillman]

On the first horn pictured, the natural curve of the horn is interrupted making it look like a double bulge in the hose. I see this a lot and maybe just me but I don't like the look. I spend a great deal of time making sure any part of the horn that is undercut follows the natural curve, no bulge. This is meant as constructive, and others may disagree.
Robby

Double bulge as I did not get the tip filed down enough to create a smooth transition?

[Tim Crosby]

 I would suggest some books to see examples of originals. Make sure you taper the entire horn, try not to mix schools or periods in time, don't be afraid to thin down the entire horn.

   Tim C.

[Robby]

M, If the nozzle, the bolster for the strap and the transition from the horn body were hose clamps the areas in-between appear to be bulging, rather than following the natural sweep of the horn.
Robby

[Daryl]

I like the small black priming horn. I have one just like it and really like mine. A little thinner/finer on the nose end of it, though.

[MGillman]

I would suggest some books to see examples of originals. Make sure you taper the entire horn, try not to mix schools or periods in time, don't be afraid to thin down the entire horn.

   Tim C.

Books are on my list. I haven’t really worried with time and style yet. Just horn for someone to take shooting. However, I would like to learn Virginia style screw tips and banded horns.

[Tim Crosby]

I would suggest some books to see examples of originals. Make sure you taper the entire horn, try not to mix schools or periods in time, don't be afraid to thin down the entire horn.

   Tim C.

Books are on my list. I haven’t really worried with time and style yet. Just horn for someone to take shooting. However, I would like to learn Virginia style screw tips and banded horns.

  Dr. Hopkins book "Bone Tipped & Banded Horns Pt I" would be my first choice.

   http://www.hornguild.org/hch-items-for-sale/

    Tim

[Brokennock]

I will forgo any criticisms as I'm no expert, I do see a couple things on a couple horns that seem "wrong" to me, but I'm not sure how to explain them.
That said, I see what is being said about the 1st horn, but, aside from the beehive style butt end (I just don't personally care for these, not saying anything was done wrong with it), I rather like the 1st horn.
And I really like the "Cumberland gap" horn.

[Craig Wilcox]

You mentioned files and sandpaper.  You can also use scrapers and chisels.  You might be surprised at how much material you can remove with the scrapers.  Leaves a pretty smooth surface also.

Some people use various gravers for the  decorations - like the maps.  Depending on the shape of the tip, you can make very fine lines, or very broad ones.

Overall, I think you are doing very well with your horns.

[Panzerschwein]

They look REALLY GOOD to me!

[MGillman]

Thanks to everyone for the help! I started making horns cause I can’t afford the really good ones that I like and I want, haha. I do have a great pouch and horn by Corey Joe Stewart I use at my 18th century living history events.

[Top Jaw]

The biggest piece of advice I could give you would be to work your tips down much thinner. Horns with slenderized tips just seem to look better and flow better.  Plus, it’s easier to fill a measure, and prime from the horn with a slender tip.   

I try to spend some time getting them worked down to a good slender profile.  Pictured are some I’ve made, and some originals which show what I’m talking about.  If you do this one thing alone, your horn making will take a leap forward.  Coloring and staining would be where I would focus next. 

-Brian Huffman

[MGillman]

The biggest piece of advice I could give you would be to work your tips down much thinner. Horns with slenderized tips just seem to look better and flow better.  Plus, it’s easier to fill a measure, and prime from the horn with a slender tip.   

I try to spend some time getting them worked down to a good slender profile.  Pictured are some I’ve made, and some originals which show what I’m talking about.  If you do this one thing alone, your horn making will take a leap forward.  Coloring and staining would be where I would focus next. 

-Brian Huffman

Thank you.

What do you use for the little grooves cut into the collars? I’ve always liked that look but the chisels I have won’t cut into the horn.

[Top Jaw]

I have an old set of Miller Falls wood carving tools, and a few more expensive ones that I picked up at auctions and estate sales.  The ones pictured are like the set I have.  The horn engrailing was cut with the 1/8” gouge third from left.   You could probably find a set on e-bay that were not overly expensive.  Or maybe just a single 1/8” gouge.  1/8 & 1/4” are the most useful size gouges.