Set triggers-plans, drawings, or sketches?

[Tenn Hills Guy]

Looking for some info on the different types of set triggers. I keep making the same one- the one you pull the rear but only trips from the front.  Building a swivel breech and would like something different.

[Dphariss]

I don't care for single set triggers much if I wanted set triggers I would build double sets.
If you build a single set there is a drawing in English Guns and Rifles by J.N. George that is a GOOD single set. Page 178
Complex but it has no funky rollers or such.
Might be able to get the book through interlibrary loan.
 I think Track of the Wolf has a decent single set but you would have to put the guts into your plate. Not to tough though. I did this on a BPCR I built some years back.
I have a swivel in the works as well but I settled for a single trigger.

Dan

[Rich]

The Gunsmith of Granville County has a section on set triggers. Track of the Wolf also sells a set trigger kit. The parts are pictured in the catalog full size. I think it might be a single lever trigger, but adding a lever to the front trigger should not be a problem.

[lew wetzel]

dpharris,man is that gonna be one nice swivel when your done..verynice

[George F.]

Your in luck. I picked up this booklet at Dixon's back in '93. It's a booklet by PRYOR MTN. BILL.  It has  Plans for a variety of triggers.. Plain triggers, single set triggers, double set triggers, double triggers as in a double barrel shot gun,single set triggers, compound single set triggers,and a Hartford Sharps 1875 sporting rifle trigger.I believe Track of the wolf has them, but not sure.    ...good luck....Geo.

[Tim Crosby]

  Building a swivel breech and would like something different.

Don't want to highjack this post but how are you two going to incase the rear portion of you RR? In the wood or a long tang on the rear rr thimble? I have an old Leonard Day action and barrels that has set for many years basically cause I never could get the rr situation figured out.


Thanks, Tim C.

[Tenn Hills Guy]

Yea, so happens I have another of his books!  Read the back and there it was: 'Triggers'.  I'll see if TOW carries it.  That is one beauty of a Turn-over gun! Would love to see more pics of it!  What cal., etc?

[Tenn Hills Guy]

Much rather 'talk' about the swivel breech-trigger issue is settled, but TOW is out of the book right now.  Don't understand your question about 'RR'? Please explain. I'm scratch building from Dave Waters plans.  Bill

[J.D.]

Dang Bill, that action is nice work. I see that you learned how to measure hundredths and thousandths of an inch. I also see that you learned how to form a proper radius on the frizzen. Nice work.

Folks, Bill is one talented guy. He posted a flint lock, made from scratch, on another board. This was apparently the first flintlock that he has had his hands on, and the work was excellent, as is the workmanship on this swivel breech. With some tutoring, he can become an outstanding gunmaker; at least as good as anyone who posts on this board, and with his can do attitude, possibly better.

Bill,
How is that flint lock working? Post a coupla photos for the members here to critique your work, not that there is anything wrong with it, simply that there is always room for improvement, even with the very best of craftsmen...and some of the very best craftsmen are members of this board.

J.D.

[Dphariss]

  Building a swivel breech and would like something different.

Don't want to highjack this post but how are you two going to incase the rear portion of you RR? In the wood or a long tang on the rear rr thimble? I have an old Leonard Day action and barrels that has set for many years basically cause I never could get the rr situation figured out.


Thanks, Tim C.

Groove the side panel for the upper rod groove, then groove the inside to make a room for the rod in the lower forend.
Install a rod pipe just like in a single barrel.
At least thats how I did it. Don't know that its "right" I think I would make the rod groove deeper next time. Too much wood maybe.  But the wood gets pretty thin. Be nicer if I had an original around someplace to look as.  Cody has a Stophel Smith Swivel or 2 but they are not always on display, or were not the last time down. They also have a kinda Rube Goldberg look to them.

Dan

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Dan, your swivel rifle is very exciting.  I appreciate seeing pictures.

[Tim Crosby]

  Don't understand your question about 'RR'? Please explain. I'm scratch building from Dave Waters plans.  Bill

 I am talking about where the ramrod goes into the side panel. See Dan's photo above.
I was wondering if it went into the panel or if the rear ramrod thimble tang was extended to encase the rod. I have seen both ways I would think the extended tang would give a slimmer profile. Just trying to decide how to do mine. Currently it has the extended tang and I'm not happy with the way it looks. I have looked at pics of originals but we all know pics just don't get it sometimes.

Thanks, Tim C.

Tim C.
 

[Tenn Hills Guy]

Hey there, J.D.!  Thanks for the compliment!  Yea, that digital caliper thingy really makes a difference!  Right now I'm inletting the rear stock, trying to decide on some carving patterns and need to decide and build triggers/bar for inletting.  Looks like there will be so little wood left, have to take more time on inletting.  I think the stresses  require the long tang to keep the thing from breaking.  Had to borrow some pieces off the flinter to make a bridle, sear, etc. for the 'back action' SB lock.  As far as the ramrod-rr: I wasn't smart enough to figure that out!- I can only go by the pic that was in my book which seems to be a shorter, standard thimble.  Dan's pics appear to be of a larger size than mine which will be 2- 13/16'th's barrels.  I'd like to perhaps go with a 'SB' separate thread for the 'watchers' who are yet uncommitted!  Probably get more input.

[Tim Crosby]

 

Groove the side panel for the upper rod groove, then groove the inside to make a room for the rod in the lower forend.
Install a rod pipe just like in a single barrel.

*took the "/" from in front of the first "quote" Dennis

 How are you holding the thimbles in? I soldered nuts to the backs and drilled thru the web between the barells. Then on the opposite panel I put inlays,drilled a hole thru them and used a machine screw to hold the thimbles and panels on.  The tails of the panells are locked under the front of the frizzed plate.
 Another thing I found was since you cannot drill your RR hole like on a single barell there is no place for it to go so it sticks out the front.
 

Tim C.

PS: I know this started off as a question on triggers, FWIW I made a single for mine.
   

[Dphariss]

Hey there, J.D.!  Thanks for the compliment!  Yea, that digital caliper thingy really makes a difference!  Right now I'm inletting the rear stock, trying to decide on some carving patterns and need to decide and build triggers/bar for inletting.  Looks like there will be so little wood left, have to take more time on inletting.  I think the stresses  require the long tang to keep the thing from breaking.  Had to borrow some pieces off the flinter to make a bridle, sear, etc. for the 'back action' SB lock.  As far as the ramrod-rr: I wasn't smart enough to figure that out!- I can only go by the pic that was in my book which seems to be a shorter, standard thimble.  Dan's pics appear to be of a larger size than mine which will be 2- 13/16'th's barrels.  I'd like to perhaps go with a 'SB' separate thread for the 'watchers' who are yet uncommitted!  Probably get more input.

These are 7/8 at the breech and 3/4 at the muzzle 50 cal. They were heavier than this as made but I set them up in the mill and increased the taper of the last 30-32" to reduce the weight. With the breeches they are 40" and the rifle will weight about 13 pounds I think. But it has a 2" by 4 3/4+ buttplate too. The action is 2" top to bottom. I suspect the barrels are pretty close to 13/16 where the entry pipe is.
I could have made the rod channel a little deeper but the wood get pretty thin and the lower forend does not have the support that a drilled hole in a stock would so I sweated durability.
I sometimes think of making a brass forend N. Hawk. From talking to a friend who had his hands on one they are pretty small. He even took it apart. I was about to try to talk this man into making one when he had a life threatening health problem, basically died, and after 2 surgerys and the problems that caused this and the residuals he has decided not to make anymore rifles... @!*%?&. He has been largely retired from ML making for about 20 years but he was starting to show interest in making another ML when the disaster struck.

Dan

[Tenn Hills Guy]

Planning on throwing some serious lead down range, eh!  As usual, I started with some oversized 1/4" plate.  By the time I've gotten the action down to size, it's really small, much more than one would realize when you think of double barrels!

[JTR]

Dan,
If the itch to build one gets serious, I can supply you with pictures of my Nicolas Hawk swivel taken apart.
I've had it apart before just to see what made it tick, and it's actually pretty straight forward and simple.

John
 

[Dphariss]

Planning on throwing some serious lead down range, eh!  As usual, I started with some oversized 1/4" plate.  By the time I've gotten the action down to size, it's really small, much more than one would realize when you think of double barrels!

The Antes swivel is bigger or at least as big as the one I built with something of a modification of the Antes.
Its a big gun, Breeches over 1" and likely dates to the 1770s. Antes was certainly born early enough and its not  like his later stuff.
Dan

[northwoodsdave]

Just a quick note to clear up any misunderstandings.

I have Pryor Mountain Bill's book, Triggers (got it from TOTW).  But the author is Bill Newton (pesky problem when you're better known by your nick-name).  If you look for the book, that's what it is under.

David