54 TC Hawken

[Zack]

Hi folks, this is my first post.  I would like to put a new barrel on my 1970s vintage TC Hawken.
I  Thought this would be as easy as getting one of those Green Mountain drop in kits but after calling Green Mountain I found out they haven't made them for 6 years or so and don't plan to in the near future.    So, if I want one I'm going to have to make it myself.   
The original barrel was .50 cal but I noticed  Green Mountain made that drop in barrel in a 15/16 .54 barrel also.    I did the math and came up with around .186 thousands or 3.16" in  for a barrel thickness in .54 cal.
That looks mighty skinny  to go drilling holes for the 5x40 screws that hold ramrod pipes and rib on.  Looks to me like the  most I could get is 3 complete threads or so.    I'd hate to ruin a good barrel by over drilling.    What do you guys say?   

Zack

[Mauser06]

Keep or sell the rifle your have and build or have built a new one.


IMO, not worth the hassle and expense to build a new barrel for it.  At the end of the day, it'll cost more than you can buy a used TC for...  Which is another option. Buy a used TC.  Or buy a used barrel or get lucky and find a new old stock...both of which are going to run you into what a gun would cost.  Last time I looked at used TC parts prices, I couldn't believe it.  Barrels especially bring good money.


Or, contact Bobby Hoyt and have him rebore it to 54. 


You have some options.  But, after a learning experience of doing something similar, I learned you can sink a bunch of money in such a rifle and IMO its just not worth it. The guns are what they are. Upgrading them is costly and in my case, I was still disappointed. Which is how I ended up here...building customs from blanks....


Not being rude...I've been down this road myself. 

[Steeltrap]

My T\C kit gun, that I acquired in the late '70's was and still is used for hunting. I believe my factory barrel was made not only on a Friday, but with the last pull-thru broach before it was replaced.    The barrel just never grouped well no matter ball\patch\lube combo that was used. And I had a lot of years in "try this 'n try that."

I bought a drop in GM barrel for it and it was....for accuracy and velocity.....the best thing I did for that rifle.

Now that GM no longer makes the "drop in" (a misnomer as my flash hole is a bit offset from center of the pan) if you're looking for better accuracy, and deeper cut barrel groves, I'd go to the rebore route. If your current setup works well, then just leave it alone.

My Leman build has a GM barrel in .54 cal, so going to a rebore and "thinning" the walls is no big deal. My Leman has a 15\16 wide barrel and I shoot 110gr FF all day long with no issues.

Of course, you could always buy a GM (or other) barrel to replace your existing barrel. Then in the future, put the factory barrel back on and build another rifle with the GM barrel.

You have options from do NADA, to doing something.  The T\C is not a period correct front stuffer, but it is a firearm that allows an owner to extend their hunting season depending upon State laws, and allows the owner to "bang it about" in the woods without too much concern of dropping value. And it gets the job done. (A useful tool just as the original front stuffers back in the mid-1800's were)

All that can't be bad for a gun valued at $300 more or less.

MHO

[Eric Krewson]

The Gun Works Muzzleloader Emporium still has drop-in GM barrels in stock. I just bought one from them in .54. Go to barrels and them Oregon drop in barrels, the GM barrels are at about the middle of the drop down, they have 15/16" in .50 and .54.

[Zack]

Eric, you are the man!   The Gun Works does indeed have the drop-barrels in stock.  Just got off the phone with them.   They are filling a niche market, after Green Mountain ceased production.      Zack 

[Zack]

Eric, you played around with the .54 barrel on your TC much yet.    Years ago I worked over the comb on that 2x4 TC stock and that really helped to get the recoil manageable.   The .54 will be a bit lighter than the .50 barrel I have now so, more added recoil.       I need to get a mold also; what size ball are you using?          Zack

[Scota4570]

" I did the math and came up with around .186 thousands or 3.16" in  for a barrel thickness in .54 cal.
That looks mighty skinny  to go drilling holes for the 5x40 screws that hold ramrod pipes and rib on.  Looks to me like the  most I could get is 3 complete threads or so.    I'd hate to ruin a good barrel by over drilling.    What do you guys say? "

 I would not attempt to drill and tap holes in that barrel on a dare.  The only screw you need in a ML barrel is the breech plug.  I can not recall having drilled and tapped a hole in a ML barrel. Do not copy TC, they made it with a modern production line mentality.  Most will say it not so much a safety thing as drilling through the barrel and leaving potholes to catch the patch.  I  would dispose of a barrel with holes in it though.  It is not worth the risk of trying.   

Solder the rib and thimbles.  Easy-Peasy....

[recurve]

Not to steel the thread BUT those barrels seem to be percussion, are there any flint 54s for great plains rifle?

[Eric Krewson]

I haven't seen any flint drop in barrels anywhere.

I shot my barrel with a .535 ball and a .012 patch, the crown was cutting the patches, the loading was too tight, and the grouping was about 5" at 50 yards, not good enough.

I like a thicker patch for a better seal so I ordered a .530 mold, smoothed the crown and gave the bore a good scrubbing with JB bore paste so smooth things up. I haven't shot the rifle since I worked on the bore and cast some .530 balls. 

As far as metal thickness goes on this barrel, there is plenty. No drilling required on these barrels, they are true drop-ins, complete with everything, under rib, sights, thimbles and underlug. I get a barrel thickness of .196 with my digital calipers, I just went out to the shop and checked.