New Timing Fixture

[Larry Pletcher]

Up until now I have only been able to time locks with a lock retaining screw.  That all is about to change with the help of Ken Guy and Keith Lisle.  These two put their heads together and came up with an idea for a lock plate vise that Keith made.  While the vise is mailed to me I made a new fixture on which to mount their invention.  This will be the 4th generation of lock fixtures I have used since the 1980s.  Each has been more versatile that the earlier ones, and this new setup should be the best. 

The nice part of this is that now a lock can be timed before it is fit to the gun.  The first use for this fixture is to time a lock for Ken before and after tuning. 

As for the assembly of the fixture that will hold the lock-plate vise, I have a question.  I need to know the distance from the back of the pan fence to the sear.  I need this only on locks larger than a large Siler or smaller than a small Siler.  These locks measure 2"-2.25" from fence to sear.   If any large or small locks are less that 2" or more than 2.25", it will help me to know how to plan.  It would help to know this measurement on locks like the Davis Yeager lock or a Bess - as well as small locks - the L&R Manton comes to mind.   If you have any unusually large or small locks that could be measured, it would be a help.

The purpose here is to mount the solenoid plunger in a fixed location and move the lock (in the vise) forward or back on slots in a rail.   The rail needs enough slot length to accomodate the smallest and largest locks likely to be timed.

I'll try to get a pic soon.
Regards,
Pletch

[brobb]

Larry

The "LOTT" lock is 3 inches from the back of the pan fence to the center of the sear arm.

Bruce Robb

[Ken G]

Larry,
I appreciate the shout out but you and Keith are the ones who deserve credit.  I just had the need.       Keith did all the work on the jig and you do all the timing.  We will all benefit from both of your efforts.   

It will be very educational to time a lock straight form the box so to speak and after and after tweeking and tuning has been done.   I can't wait to see the different results from this. 

Ken 

[rdillon]

I cant wait either!!!!!  Hurry up!  This should be real interesting

[Larry Pletcher]

These pics will give you the basic idea. 







The vise will be attached to a rail and slid forward or back until the sear lines up with the solenoid and everything snugged down.  Keith made the vise as a prototype using a soft steel.  We will do some shake-down tests and then if necessary deplicate this in harder materials.   

I'm in debt to Keith for his design and creative work.  His solution will likely solve the years old problem of having to have the lock-retaining hole installed on the plate.  Im looking forward to getting this al together.

Thanks Keith!
Regards,
Pletch

[Acer Saccharum]

Cool beans. You rock, Larry. Thanks for all your efforts.
Keith, thanks for your machining time and materials.

 It's absolutely great to have this information available. Until now it has been perception. Now it's documented.

Tom

[Birddog6]

Larry,

  One jig is ready & works on the lock listed below.  I am having to make a dif jig to hold the lock Ken wants to use, as of the design of the lockplate. I am going to try & work on that today.  I will mail you the other jig tomorrow whether I get the second one to work or not, thus you can proceed with testing the new timing fixture & etc.  

Question, so you have an assortment of locks to try, or should I send some ? I can furnish a Chambers L.Siler, S. Siler, Deluxe Siler, G. Age, L. Ketland, D. Johnson, Germanic, English, VA, English pistol, and Davis Jaeger locks for you to try if you don't have them & would like to try them for fit & whatever.  This way you will know for sure what the adjustment min. & max. required for these locks. I don't actually need them tested, just thought possibly you may want to set them up each one time to insure you new top will adjust to them.  These are all new except the small Siler lock, but you can still clamp it with the lil jig. Can mail all or part of them to you, your option.

  As for the lock Ken is using, I have to make a new jig to mount it.  The way the fence is angled  behind the flashpan & the close distance on it to the hammer at it's resting point is so close, plus  at an angle, if I mod. the other jig to work I feel it will be too weak in one area.  So have it about figured out on how I want to do it, just have to weld it up & insure it will clear everything, yet not be a PITA to mount a lock to it.  I am trying to keep it a min. of 2 pieces & 2 screws so one person can hold it in his hand & mount it..  I have something to weld in the shop today so I plan on welding the jig as well & then will see how it work & etc.

Keith

[Larry Pletcher]

Keith,
There should be no need to send any locks.  I have most of the ones you mention - at least enough to make any adjustments to the rail that will hold the vise.   I'll wait to cut the slot in the rail until I have vise.  The slot length will be long enough to allow for a wide range of lock sizes.  I don't expect to have trouble with that part.

It sounds like you are doing the heavy lifting here.  What type of lock is Ken using?  I was going to guess it was for a southern gun, but have no real idea what the lock is like.  I hope the fix you have in mind turns out to be successful. 

Best Regards,
Larry

[Ken G]

Good guess Larry. haha  Is there any other kind?  I'm using a flat tailed lock from Davis.  I think they referr to it as a "Late English" lock.  
Keith,
I really appreciate your making the jigs.

Ken

[Birddog6]

You are welcome. Got the other jig made & ready to mail when the PO opens again.