Author Topic: Sand off iron nitrate? (Read 2145 times)

Kmcmichael · « **on:** June 13, 2021, 06:13:16 PM »

I have used some iron nitrate and could not get the green out. I used some brown stain over it and it got pretty dark. I put the first coat of finish on and it got darker. I contemplate starting over but getting rid of iron nitrate on the practice maple required a lot of sanding. I believe more than it can handle and not be below the hardware. I am pretty sure I have to live with it. Opinions?

I am colorblind and though I could sort of blush the finish on the practice block, I was unable to do it on the larger surface. When I was able to get assistance the iron nitrate would only get darker not change.

Conversely the rest of the build has gone well and I will likely have a gun that will look better up close than from a distance!

Stoner creek · « **Reply #1 on:** June 13, 2021, 06:20:07 PM »

Did you apply heat to activate the stain?

Kmcmichael · « **Reply #2 on:** June 13, 2021, 06:46:18 PM »

Yes but I think I let it set for too long prior.

Stoner creek · « **Reply #3 on:** June 13, 2021, 06:55:17 PM »

Try blushing it again. Go for a rusty brown color. I’ve left iron nitrate on for long periods of time and that didn’t seem to affect it. Good luck.

D. Taylor Sapergia · « **Reply #4 on:** June 13, 2021, 08:59:45 PM »

Wayne is correct. When you blush the stock, the heat should make the surface go to a rusty red/brown colour. Careful not to scorch/burn thin edges and corners. Once the wood has been blushed, you can cut back the colour some with 220 grit paper, 0000steel wool, and/or maroon Scotch Brite pad, but it takes a lot of rubbing.

Kmcmichael · « **Reply #5 on:** June 13, 2021, 09:36:02 PM »

Long periods of time?

Kmcmichael · « **Reply #6 on:** June 13, 2021, 09:40:25 PM »

Kmcmichael · « **Reply #7 on:** June 13, 2021, 09:52:03 PM »

It looks better today in the sun.

Daryl · « **Reply #8 on:** June 13, 2021, 11:17:14 PM »

The colour looks good to me.

Kmcmichael · « **Reply #9 on:** June 13, 2021, 11:29:13 PM »

Thanks, will it get darker with more finish coats?

moleeyes36 · « **Reply #10 on:** June 14, 2021, 12:22:02 AM »

I agree with Daryl that the color looks pretty good now. Depending on whether or not the color darkens depends on if the iron nitrate you used was neutralized enough. Some of the commercial "aqua fortis" is pretty acidic still and will continue to darken the wood over time if not neutralized with ammonia or baking soda. I had that happen to me once a few years ago with some stuff I bought from Track of The Wolf. I only use the iron nitrate from Jim Kibler now days and have no need to neutralize afterwards. The finish itself won't continue to darken the color unless it is tinted. The finish should only make the curl stand out more as you apply additional coats.

Don Richards

Not English · « **Reply #11 on:** June 14, 2021, 01:48:51 AM »

The stock looks good to me. I kind of disagree with Don as to finishes changing color. Linseed oil will darken over time. Not necessarily a lot, but it can. I suspect that other oil finishes might also do the same if they're linseed oil based. If you're curious about what it might look like with finish, just wipe it down with water. You don't need to use a lot of water.

Dave

Daryl · « **Reply #12 on:** June 14, 2021, 03:21:35 AM »

The surface of the wood in the butt stock picture appears to need whiskering or scraping/sanding to smooth it a mite more - on my monitor at least.

moleeyes36 · « **Reply #13 on:** June 14, 2021, 04:01:35 AM »

Dave,

I certainly agree that some finishes will darken over time. My comment was in response to the OP’s question as to whether or not the color would darken as he applied more coats of finish.

Don Richards

Kmcmichael · « **Reply #14 on:** June 14, 2021, 05:13:31 AM »

It does seem a lot rougher than before I finished it. It however was scraped and sanded extensively with up to 800. I will attack it again tomorrow after letting it dry for two days. It spent the afternoon hanging outside so it should be ready for some sanding and another coat. I used a wool dauber and it shed some hairs on it.

How many coats are beneficial?

moleeyes36 · « **Reply #15 on:** June 14, 2021, 05:54:51 AM »

Did you whisker the stock? Wetting and allowing the stock to dry then lightly burnishing with 0000 steel wool or fine scotch-brute pads after applying the iron nitrate and blushing is the way to do it. The whiskering process will give you a much smoother surface on which to apply the finish.

Don Richards

Not English · « **Reply #16 on:** June 14, 2021, 06:34:33 AM »

Don's right about about whiskering. It makes quite a difference. If you use a heat gun or hair dryer after wetting down the stock it will speed up the process. I think heat may also help raise the grain a little more.

Dave

Kmcmichael · « **Reply #17 on:** June 14, 2021, 01:38:09 PM »

I did not. Is it too late to do after the initial finish. How long after wetting do you sand?

Bob McBride · « **Reply #18 on:** June 14, 2021, 02:20:52 PM »

As soon as it dries. You can help it along with a hair drier…

Kmcmichael · « **Reply #19 on:** June 14, 2021, 04:58:52 PM »

After wet sanding I am concerned about this light spot?

ScottH · « **Reply #20 on:** June 14, 2021, 06:42:23 PM »

I believe that is just sanding dust. Try hitting it with some compressed air and blow it off the stock.
Also if that doesn't get rid of the whitish appearance, rub a dab of finish on a spot and see if it does not disappear.

Metalshaper · « **Reply #21 on:** June 14, 2021, 06:52:43 PM »

Jim turpin uses hot water and a green scotch brite to scrub back the AF/IN stains on his guns. When he's finished and they dry, they almost look like
old barn wood. kinda grey-ish and dull. its when he hits it with his finish, you see it come alive and get the pop!

Respect Always
Metalshaper/Jonathan

D. Taylor Sapergia · « **Reply #22 on:** June 14, 2021, 07:23:38 PM »

You are getting advice on stock finishing a little bit at a time, and in answer to your questions, but the sequence is off since you have already applied finish.

1. Sand scrape stock to desired smoothness.
2. Apply water with a damp cloth to the dry clean wood, and let that dry.
3. Whiskering...sand the stock in the same direction as the grain to remove the fine hairs that'll pop up from the wetting/drying. Repeat at least twice.
4. Apply Ferric Nitrate, and allow to dry.
5. Apply heat from a heat gun, forge, etc to blush the wood. Colour will change from a grey/green to a rust/brown/red.
6. Burnish the wood to further remove the whiskers that pop up and to mellow out the colour. Use a ScotchBrite pad or 0000 steel wool. Wipe off all dust and detris.
7. Apply your favourite finish...slather it on and allow the wood to soak up as much as it will. 15 minutes later, wipe it all off. Allow to dry minimum 1 day.
8. Repeat # 7.
9. Apply finish once a day until it builds up on the surface. Once it has dried thoroughly, sand or burnish the finish off right down to the wood. Clean the stock to remove all dust.
10. Apply finish a few drops at a time and rub it out with a cotton pad or the palm of your hand. Allow to dry at least 1 day. Repeat until the finish is what you want.
11. I apply a hard floor wax with a soft cloth when I'm happy with my finish, and buff it with a soft cotton cloth. I repeat this a couple times a year, after I have cleaned the rifle following a shooting outing.

Kmcmichael · « **Reply #23 on:** June 14, 2021, 08:59:20 PM »

Thanks for the replies. I did call Chambers and was told to keep applying the finish. It seems to work.
I do like the looks of the iron nitrate but will not do it again. If I can find someone with experience locally to blush it, I will.

News:

Author Topic: Sand off iron nitrate? (Read 2145 times)