DST issue......again

[borderdogs]

Hi Guys,
I am trying to figure out the issue I am having with my DST and I am asking for help. The set I have is an L & R Hawken and its inlet fully and I have got it to fire with the trigger and with the set trigger. I have backlash on the set trigger and I have them adjusted using the set screw and spring screw. They work great outside the inlet and work pretty well when in the stock. But when in the stock the front trigger when set has creep almost like it has a stop before the lock fires. I have polished both triggers and files the top bars to the point where the front is barely touching the sear. I determined that using inlet black. I thought mybe there was wood interference but its seems pretty clear. The triggers when painted on the top of the bars and on the sides do not transfer black on any wood. When the trigger set is out of the stock and I cock the lock there is clearance around the sear bar.

So I am at a loss, I don't want to take any more off the trigger bars and there is smooth movement of the triggers between themselves. When the set is in the stock there is free play on the back trigger and very slight movement of the front trigger when the lock is at rest. Any ideas would be welcome
Thanks,
Rob 

[Not English]

Rob, I use non drying prussian blue it's greasy stuff. A little goes a long way. I have to think your inletting black should work as well. I know you've done it before, but somewhere you're making contact with the stock. Thoroughly coat all moving parts with color ( do not overload) and then install the trigger and operate it. Look for color marks on the sides of the inlet. If you can't find any, then examine the dst to see where the color has rubbed off. That will give you an idea of where to look. If you're doing this with the trigger guard installed, make sure that none of the trigger bottoms are touching the trigger guard.

Dave

[kutter]

.... have polished both triggers and files the top bars to the point where the front is barely touching the sear.

With the trigger in the 'set mode',,the front trigger bar should not be anywhere near the sear arm of the lock.

Unless I'm reading this wrong (entirely possible!)...
 I get the idea that with the trigger being 'set',,when you then go to pull the front trigger, that front trigger bar is engaging the sear arm of the lock itself at the same time as it is trying to release the rear/set trigger from it's engagement sear point.

The resistance felt is the front trigger bar hitting the lock sear arm.

[borderdogs]

Thanks for the quick replies! I was thinking wood interference but I see no black on any of the wood. I have taken a fair amount of meta off the bars to the point I didnt want to take more off. I could take a bit more of the front trigger bar but I know I am very close to taking too much off,  I will have at it again checking the inlet again tomorrow.
Thanks again,
Rob

[Ted Kramer]

Could the front trigger return spring be contacting wood when the trigger is pulled?

[kutter]

Take the DST unit out of the stock.
Cut small shims out of cardboard,,like from a business card, one or two to fit at both ends of the trigger plate.
Put the shims in the stock inlet.
Then replace the DST unit and tighten it back into place...but don't over tighten.

This will make the entire DST unit stand away from the lock's sear arm. The front trigger bar along with it.
I still think the front trigger bar is engaging the lock sear arm at the same time as it is trying to disengage from the rear/set trigger.

This small amt of clearance provided by the shims should allow the front trigger to release the rear trigger w/o interference from the sear arm of the lock.

[EC121]

Sounds like maybe one or both of the trigger engagement surfaces has a burr on it.  That will cause a hang before it trips.  Or, as mentioned above,  the front trigger bar is high enough that it is dragging the sear bar.  Shim it out.

[borderdogs]

I hadnt thought about the spring there is a tail on it I will check that out. I will also try shimming the trigger bar and see what that does. I post what I find out.
Thanks again,
Rob

[kutter]

Shim the DST unit,,or just take the lock right out of the stock all together..leave the DST in place.
See if the DST's work smoothly w/o the lock in place.
If they do, then it's the sear arm of the lock that the front trigger bar is engaging while trying to release the set trigger..

[Bob Roller]

I think kutter has the right idea.There are only TWO moving parts to a double set trigger
of this style and only ONE thing it is supposed to engage which is the release bar of the sear.
Kutter's idea is a good and fast test so try it.It sounds tome as if the front trigger is STARTING
to release the sear which will create resistance and THEN the spring loaded rear trigger does its trick
and the gun fires.
Bob Roller

[borderdogs]

Thanks Bob I will try that shimming makes sense since I am fearful of taking too much off the trigger at this point. I havent had the shop time to try it but I will either tonight or over the weekend.
Thanks,
Rob

[borderdogs]

I was able to try using shim card on the trigger set. Using one layer without cranking down the tang screw nothing changed but then using another layer of card and they worked perfectly. So roughly I shimmed about .008" I'd say with the two layers of card. So does that come off the trigger or the set trigger or both?
Thanks,
Rob

[kutter]

You can take it off of the front trigger bar,,
Or off of the bottom edge of the sear arm of the lock where the above is engaging it
at the same time that it try to disengage itself from the set trigger.
(Depends on how thin the front trigger bar has been shaved down already I guess

Leave the set  ( rear) trigger alone.


***How 'bout this...
If you only lowered the entire trigger unit about .008 out of the stock,,and everything works OK at that level,,what about bedding the trigger unit right into place at that level.
Then take the unit apart, triggers out,,and replace the 'plate' back into the stock.
File the bottom face of the plate back down to the stock surface.
.008 ain't much and it shouldn't leave the triggers hanging out there like they've been mis-fitted or anything.
Make it .010 so make sure it works...

It'll save any more tinkering and reducing the size of the blade(s) and possibly the sear arm trying to get the triggers to work.

[borderdogs]

I ended up taking it off the front trigger a couple of swipes at a time and got them working pretty well no staged trigger like before. Actually I measured the bars where they were and took off material then remeasured them. In the end I ended up taking about .012" off the front bar. Thanks for all the help with this.
Rob