Hi Ed,
Those cutters should work. I hardened the ends of my cutters with KaseNit or Cherry Red. I assume you will put handles on them for good control. You may find they are too aggressive but you can always wear the teeth down a little. Just FYI, the early coarse and later finer flat flat topped checkering was done with cutters like yours that cut a flat bottomed groove with vertical sides. Some early checkering tools were like little saws. I find them to be a little hard to direct when cutting the initial lines. They tend to grab and then skitter over the surface. So I use a modern 60 degree Gunline checkering tool to initially cut the pattern and then go back and deepen and square up the lines with the vertical cutting tools. Modern tools are like a combination of saw and file. With the early coarse checkering, I do the job before applying finish to the stock because I am not worried that delicate little pyramid topped diamonds will chip off. However, if the checkering is fine, let's say 16 lines to the inch or finer, I checker after one or two coats of finish are on the stock. Checkering is not for the faint of heart, especially the wrap around style that goes all the way around a wrist or handle. To do that, always draw a good center line for the pattern on the top of the wrist or back of the handle and make sure both sides of the stock are even and mirror each other as perfectly as possible. Use some sort of profiling tool or template to check that. Good luck.
dave
