Bonewitz rifle completed

[alacran]

You have done a lovely job on that rifle. You should be very proud.
I have a Tulle which I made from prints. Though I loved the looks, I don't like the way it beat me up.
Add to that the fact that it shot best with 90 grains of 2f, I never looked forward to shooting it.
Eventually I decided the drop the comb by 1/2 inch.
Since it had a curved comb, I was able to blend it in fairly well. Of course that entailed refinishing the butt, an action not to be taken lightly.
Though it is not and ever be as pleasant to shoot as my English styled Fowler, it is more pleasant to shoot than it used to be.

[coopersdad]

I have strongly considered that,  but  not sure I can remove enough wood without making it look goofy.  I'm working on blowing up buttstock profiles of other Bonewitz rifles, plus others that fit me well, to overlay them on each other to start learning better the relationships that make a gun comfortable, and why this one isn't. Maybe it'll show me an area to modify on this one, too. 

[flehto]

Seeing all my Bucks  County LRs have a  moderately curved combline and don't slap my cheek, I don't think the "curve" is at all responsible for slapping your cheek w/  your LR. Shown below are 2 of my Bucks County LRs and it's apparent  from the pics that the drops on these 3 BCs  are a lot more than on you Bonewitz.  My 2nd build many years ago was a Lehigh and it was a big "cheek slapper" and although it had a curved combline,  the problem was w/ too high a comb ......the drops were wrong. I sold the Lehigh to a person at a reduced price and he just wanted it for a wall hanger and was told about the bad cheek slapping.

Also, even though the comb   drops are correct and the BCs are very slender, petite LRs, I do make them w/ 3/16" cast off.....Fred

[coopersdad]

Yes, I agree, I am sure now that my biggest issue is the drop at both heel and comb were too small. 

[Jerry V Lape]

Nice looking rifle Mike.  It looks like you did your homework on details that are Bonewitz signature.  Coincidentally I am working on a Reedy and it has been more than 3 years.  Caring for a wife with dementia sure cuts into free time.  But no complaint.  I am using the same patchbox and it is also my first brass box.  At the beginning of the project I had access to several Bonewitz and Reedy rifles which I was able to draw outlines from with dimensions.  Sure is nice to handle originals tp gain sense of the maker.  Hope mine finishes up half as nice as yours. 

[Marcruger]

It is just my two-cents worth, but stocks with a high straight comb rarely abuse your cheek.  Look at dangerous game rifles.  Also, how many fowlers/shotguns do you see with lots of drop? 

It was explained to me that rifles with a lot of drop are basically climbing your cheek as the butt recoils to the rear.  The comb is higher in front of the cheek, so it gets higher as the gun moves to the rear.  Also, the butt center  on a gun with a lot of drop is lower compared to the bore.  In engineering terms, that is a larger moment arm compared to the bore and the gun will rotate upwards more compared to a high, straight comb. 

The low kicking Lancasters mentioned above have high, straight combs. 

Thinking out loud, on guns with a lot of drop, I am guessing the shooter holds is face and cheek bone is well above the comb, and therefore gets missed on recoil? 

I look at Appalachian guns with deep crescent butts, sharp combs and lots of drop and think, "no large bores for me with that architecture". 

God Bless,   Marc

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

There is one thing you could try before chopping away wood from the buttstock.
I have successfully turned cheek busters into pleasant shooting rifles by bending the wrist to lower the drop at the comb.  The process involves removing the lock, cutting a piece of 2 x 4 lumber to lay the barrel on flat with the board cut out for the sights (unsidedown) and clamping the rifle with C clamps to a straight flat bench.  the wrist of the rifle is wrapped loosely with cloth shop towels secured with nylon tie straps, again loosely, heating Canola cooking oil on a hot plate until about 300 degrees, and pouring the hot oil over the cothes, soaking them with the hot oil, and keeping this up for about an hour.  this will heat the wrist wood thoroughly.  A wedge is made to insert under the butt's heel, marked first as the before mark, pushed in little by little to move the heel away from the bench, until you have increased the drop the desired amount, plus a little.  The stock will have a memory and want to return to it's former shape a bit, but most of the deflection will remain once the wood is cold again.  You can move the drop as much as you want, but I'd suggest starting with about 1/2" increase of drop.  You can add more later if it isn't enough.  On the two guns I did this to, a Centre Mark Tulle musket, and a Lebanon styled longrifle, the difference was profound.  It did not effect the finish on the rifle either...no blistering, or discolouration.  I should be able to post pictures (again) or send them to you via pm if you'd prefer.  You could add cast off too at the same time, if that would help.
Taylor

[coopersdad]

Taylor, that is a great idea, thank you,.  I already located your old post and photos from bending your Tulle and have them saved.  I will give it another range session, trying some more upright posture shooting - when I tried it before my cheek was so sore I think even a good fitting rifle would've hurt.

I couldn't tell from the photos, but I assume that besides the lock, the triggerguard is also removed?

[BeanStationgunmaker]

Looks very good to me

[mikeyfirelock]

This is a  Hoosier hillbilly solution, and might help, might not,  have you considered raising the sights 1/8”- or as much as 3/16” .    I would just glue some temporary stock to front and rear and see if that helps.   Would not be really noticeable and might save some real headaches.     

[coopersdad]

Thanks Mike, I ended up bending he stock per Taylor's suggestion, which worked OK.  I started another thread about that.