Drum Install Debacle

[Mule Brain]

I have this rifle build, and overall the build is done pretty well. This rifle is nearly finished, but it has a problem with the way the drum hole
was drilled. As you can see the drum is not at the proper angle. Not sure if the hole can be redone to get the proper angle on the drum, or
install a vent liner and file it flush? The large Siler flintlock fits the already existing mortise. For the record this is not my work, just trying
to fix whats here.
       

[Bob Roller]

It CAN be saved but accurate drill for this job to me will mean a milling machine.What size is that thread shown and how wide is the flat?
It appears to have been drilled and tapped with no  good way available.
Bob Roller

[Ky-Flinter]

Going flint sure would be easier.  If the existing hole is centered vertically on the flat, you may have room to enlarge the hole, but that probably means making a custom sized drum.

Just a suggestion, totally off topic, since the stock isn't finished you can still take some wood off the upper and lower lock panels.  Make them about 1/8" wide and blend them into what you have front and rear.  Will look better.

[Mule Brain]

Bob, I am not sure where my thread guage is, but have added a few more detailed pictures

Oh yes that lock panel looks great, and will follow your guidance. I saved that picture for a reference when I am working on it.

Of course now all the darn pictures are upside down 

 





image url

[B.Habermehl]

Buy a 1/4 28 bolt and a 5/16 24. Test fit these in the barrel threads. To determine what you have. This will help determine your options. BJH

[EC121]

It looks like the hole was drilled 90deg. to the flat on a swamped barrel.  That would throw a drum hole off toward the muzzle.  As Bob said  a milling machine that could cut a hole 90deg. to the lockplate would be the fix for a caplock.   A liner and flintlock appear to be a better solution.

[kutter]

If it's just for looks,,the existing drum not being 90* to the bore,,but the assembly being strong enough to shoot as it is....

Then I'd increase the dia of the existing drum by splicing a simple thin walled cylinder over it.
Thick enough to allow you to file that extra mat'l to the needed 90* perpendicular shape to the bore so it looks correct.
Leave the orig flats on the outboard end of the drum as is. No need to cover them up. If they need a little tweaking to make them fall in line better with the 90* fix,,that can be done after thedrum is installed.
It won't be much.

The sleeve doesn't have to be very thick,,just enough so you don't file though the wall thickness of the sleeve in trueing it up.
It could be simply LocTite in place or soft soldered on,,sweat soldered on to the existing drum.
Drill the opening in the sleeve  for the nipple before soldering/loctiting in place so you know where it is on the orig drum circumference.

Some refitting to the lockplate cut out will be necessary of course as the new drum will be slightly oversize,,but not by much.

All just for looks of course.

[Bob Roller]

That drum doesn't seem to be seated all the way.I agree with the idea of making it a flintlock only and keep the caplock for another build,
Also the tape measure may be OK to measure a length on anything but is a very poor gauge to locate a center on anything.
Bob Roller

[B.Habermehl]

Conversion to flint is probably the best choice. At least that’s what I would do. The percussion drum must be well supported by the lock plate. Or metal fatigue will set in through use at the shoulder of the threads. Creating the possibilitiy of the drum becoming a projectile. I don’t see this from the pictures. A custom touch hole liner can rather easily be made from a common bolt of the correct thread and a nut to use as a holding fixture. If you choose this route I’d be glad to provide more info. BJH

[Mule Brain]

BJH

Can you elaborate on the method you speak of? I have done that before, but it's been quite some time ago
 

[B.Habermehl]

I start with a common grade bolt no need for grade 5 or 8. Probably 1 -1/2 long so I have a shoulder at the end of the threads. Run it into the nut and snug it against the shoulder of the threads. Cut the bolt off leaving a handle on the shank end. And shorten the threaded end to allow for fitting to your barrel. I allways make a couple spares. Fit the threaded end to the breech of your barrel shortening as necessary to prevent it from protruding into the bore. From the pictures of your barrel it seems to be counter sinked a bit at the threaded hole. The shoulder of the threads should take care of that hopefully. For a semi premenent installation I would counterbore the liner using the nut for a holding fixture to a point that ends a bit short if the shoulder which should probably be close to the finished surface of the barrel and liner combo. Install the liner and file flush. Install lock, lay out and drill your touch hole. Not hard, I hope my directions make sense. BJH

PS I usually counter sink the edges of the counterbore in the liner to allow the powder to enter the counter bore more easily.

[Mule Brain]

Thanks for that info, I think that is where I am headed with this. I think this typed of rifle should be in flint anyway.

[2 shots]

 it could just be the picture but it looks like the front of drum is closer to barrel than the rear . if swamped wouldn"t it be further away in front? it  could hole been drilled at an angle???

[Ky-Flinter]

Swamped or straight matters not.  The hole was not drilled at 90 degrees perpendicular to the barrel flat.

Ron

[Mule Brain]

Swamped or straight matters not.  The hole was not drilled at 90 degrees perpendicular to the barrel flat.

Ron

That is correct, not drilled at 90 to the flat