Sandpaper grit smoothness and iron nitrate/curly maple?

[Hunterdude]

I often sand my non gunsmith woodworking projects out to 600 grit or more, I have read that you can go "to smooth" on curly maple? I am building a Kibler SMR. I read somewhere to only go to about 320 grit. The thought was if you go "to smooth" the stock may not color as well when apply finnish.
    Hopeful to get some advice on how fine to sand And how much to "whisker" or raise grain and re sand before starting the iron nitrate process? Thank you!

[deepcreekdale]

I usually go no finer than 220 unless I am working with high grade English Walnut if I am not using scrapers. I have not really noticed a difference in the fineness of the grit making a difference in the color with AF with maple. I raise the whiskers as much as needed until it remains smooth after being wiped with a damp rag. Each piece of wood is a little different. I have had some take several applications of a damp rag followed by sanding, others only one or two.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

When I made my Kibler rifle, and posted images here, some were interested in the process I used to achieve the dramatic and flamboyant curl.  So I posted a thread on that subject and it should be available in the search function. 
The grade of paper I used, trying to recall from memory, was likely around 320 or maybe 400.  I certainly didn't go to 600.  If you use that very fine paper, you have a tendency to slick over the surface of the wood which resists the penetration of the solutions you apply, namely tannic acid and ferric nitrate.  Some here like to use scrapers which leaves the wood perfect for the absorption of the stains and will definitely yield the most dramatic curl.  Before applying tannic acid, I whisker with a new piece of 320 a couple of times.  Then I apply the tannic acid and ferric nitrate, and when dry, whisker again, cutting right through the colour to expose the curl.  The vivid stain will remain in the curl and will be virtually impossible to remove with sandpaper.  And the oil you use to finish will make the curl pop when you wet it down.

[flehto]

W/ all the many builds, never went finer than 220 grit before staining.  After the stain is dry, the unabsorbed stain is removed w/ 0000 steel wool. The first coat of  LMF sealer is next and when dry it too gets the 0000 steel wool down to the wood as does the 2nd coat of LMF sealer.  The stock is quite smooth at this stage and the 2 sparse coats of Wahkon Bay Trucoat are  applied w/ the fingers w/ a complete dry between coats. The resultant finish is low gloss. Forgot to mention that the stock is vacuumed after the steel wool is used....Fred

[Dennis Glazener]

I usually go to 220 on my Gillespies maybe 320 on a fowler or more upscale rifle. As far as whispering keep going until the grain is not raised . I  use alcohol so the wood dries faster that using water.
Dennis

[mgbruch]

I like to scrape and burnish the stock. use fine rasps, then scrapers.  I also burnish twice during the build.  before applying the aquafortis, then again just before applying the final finish.  having said that, I do rub the finish back with fine scotchbrite after the aquafortis; in order to lighten up the running grain, just prior to using another cover stain to get the tones I want.  I like a good scraped and burnished finish.

[Scota4570]

Maple,

After hard backed 220 grit sand paper I use :

3M (TM) Scotch-Brite (TM) 7447 Hand Pads General Purpose Burgundy Maroon Comparable to Grade 1 Steel Wool 6 Inch x 9 Inch… (5)

If I see scratches after staining I may use #320 before the pads.  As long as there are no visible scratches the finish will look good.  Don't get super aggressive with the pads, that will create a washboard effect on curly grain. 

[Chocktaw Brave]

Dumb question, but what is the procedure you use to whisker a stock?

[Mike Brooks]

I use a combination of sandpaper and scrapers. 220 is as fine as I go.

[Dennis Glazener]

Dumb question, but what is the procedure you use to whisker a stock?

Normally wet with water, let dry then sand or scrape off the little whiskers that the water raised.

Back in height school wood shop we mixed water with a fine mix of plain flower. The water raised the grain andvthe dried flour glue dried and made the whiskers a little still do the sand paper would cut the flush with the would. Do it until the whiskers do not "lift" after applying water.
Dennis

[B.Habermehl]

No question is dumb. My take on wiskering, after scraping I dampen the stock with a wet rag. Then I cook it with a hand held hair dryer. Then sand. Repeat the wet rag and hair dryer. Move on to the next finer grit. Repeat as you sand with finer grit paper. I whisker with each sandpaper grit. Hope this helps. BJH

[Jim Filipski]

Dumb question, but what is the procedure you use to whisker a stock?

I still use Water and a hair drier! I always have, I always will!
Some say to use alcohol but it really does not raise much!
Fine scraping at that stage, is better than sanding to me ...Seems re-sanding always brings up more whiskers!
If I'm doing a Shellac sealing on a super fine build, I will fine sand the stock before applying the final oil finish.

[Hunterdude]

Dumb question, but what is the procedure you use to whisker a stock?

Good question. If you dry sand any wood till it feels smooth, then get the bare wood wet, after it dry's out the wood fibers will have swelled. When you rub your hand on it now the raised wood fibers will feel like a man's whiskers, you repeat the wet/dry cycle and sanding cycle until the wood feels the same after the wet/dry cycle. Now when you apply your favorite wood finish, the wood will remain smooth to the touch.

[Dphariss]

600 will work OK, it does form me anyway, and will make a nicer stock when the finish is applied. Unless doing a SMR I always sand to 400 at least. Its not like browning a barrel.

[Hunterdude]

When I made my Kibler rifle, and posted images here, some were interested in the process I used to achieve the dramatic and flamboyant curl.  So I posted a thread on that subject and it should be available in the search function. 
The grade of paper I used, trying to recall from memory, was likely around 320 or maybe 400.  I certainly didn't go to 600.  If you use that very fine paper, you have a tendency to slick over the surface of the wood which resists the penetration of the solutions you apply, namely tannic acid and ferric nitrate.  Some here like to use scrapers which leaves the wood perfect for the absorption of the stains and will definitely yield the most dramatic curl.  Before applying tannic acid, I whisker with a new piece of 320 a couple of times.  Then I apply the tannic acid and ferric nitrate, and when dry, whisker again, cutting right through the colour to expose the curl.  The vivid stain will remain in the curl and will be virtually impossible to remove with sandpaper.  And the oil you use to finish will make the curl pop when you wet it down.

Could someone point me to the curly maple finish how-to thread mentioned in this post? My stock is not as narrow stripes as the rifle spoken of, but I would still like to read how the Finish was achieved. Thanks!

[Scota4570]

https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=69136.msg707009#msg707009

[Hunterdude]

https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=69136.msg707009#msg707009

This link goes to my build thread, the rifle in question is shown in my thread, but I was told it was built approx 2017 and many admired the finish and a thread was made to detail its finish, I have not figured out how to search for "that" thread.

[Jim McQuaide]

I try not to use sandpaper for any finish work, I prefer to use scrapers wherever possible. Leftover utility knife blades and carpet blades make great scrapers, and can be easily modified for tight spaces. I also use alcohol for whispering, just because I don’t have the patience to wait for the water to dry. A good burnishing with a piece of antler is usually my last step before staining.

[45-110]

"Whispering" ? Yes I sometimes talk to my stock as I prep for finish, but always thought I was Whiskering. I always use 400 grit for my final finish work.
kw

[Jim Filipski]

"Whispering" ? Yes I sometimes talk to my stock as I prep for finish, but always thought I was Whiskering. I always use 400 grit for my final finish work.
kw

Sometimes I whisper Bad language to my stocks! Keeps them in line before I Ferric Nitrate them!....Then they are mine!