How is this dark and sort of knurled surface obtained?

[DavidC]

I'm going to try to shamelessly copy some of the carving of this rifle 

But how is that darkened area with the sort of "top of an acorn" type finish obtained? I really like the look of it. Does the color come from some darkening agent or is it just the accumulation of finish in the divots?

[Marcruger]

A little hard to see here, but it appears to be what is called "stippled" in the leather carving world.  A series of tiny random dots.  I'd guess a smoothly rounded nail could be used to do that.   God Bless,   Marc

[DavidC]

Ah, that photo upload really reduced the resolution.

Here's a link to something better:https://imgur.com/7bJkvya

[heinz]

That technique is common in leatherwork, not so much on rifles.   Try it on a test piece to see if you like how it looks in real life.   Many European rifles use selective dark staining to achieve the same effect without the stippling

[Mike Brooks]

That sort of decoration is not found on american longrifles

[Stoner creek]

 I own a Vogler gun made by Mike Cox with some of that stippling inside the carving below the cheek piece. I’d never seen it before on a Longrifle but I like the effects.

[RAT]

Stippling is very commonly used on modern guns. On metal, plastic, and wood. It's been very popular on wood stocks of European guns, and in metal engraving, since at least the 1600's. The Book "Steinschloss-Jagerbychsen" (the Jaeger book that Jim Chambers sold) shows several examples. I believe the book "Steel Canvas" showed examples of American work in engraving dating to at least the later half of the 19th century. Primarily factory engraving on stuff like Colt revolvers. But, honestly, it's been a few years since I've looked t that book.

Clearly, the rifle example you showed is of European styling. Stippling would be appropriate on a German Jaeger.

Stippling tools are sold by Brownells. There are lots of how-to explanations and videos on the web. I've never done it myself, but from what I've read, most people use simple tools (like nails) rather than buying special tools. The explanations make it sound fairly simple, but a lot of practice is needed to acquire the "bounce" skills to get good looking work.

[kutter]

Stippling on wood  inside the checkering borders was somewhat common on German & Austrian bolt action rifle sporters made before WW1 and up to WW2. A bit of resurgence in use by them in the 60's on their rifles.

A few independent US sporting rifle makers in the 50's and 60's thought it was a good thing but never really caught on much over real checkering.
Winchester used to stipple the wood immedietley around the Fluer-'d leis (sp?) on their B-Carve' checkering patterns post WW2. Just a time saver really so as not to have to checker right up to the complicated shape.

A hollow point punch was the usual tool though some of the work was done with a multi line 90* criss cross pattern cut into the face. These will push the wood surface down a bit and compact it so it shows up as relief work.
If you use a simple sharp point tool to do the work, it stabs into the wood and doesn't make the same effect,,and it takes a very long time to cover the same amt of area.
It often looks patchy when done with a single sharp pointed punch as well as there are small areas that get more of a work over than others.
When the stippled wood is hit with wood finish or stain,,the broken down fibers of the wood really drink up the finish. That usually accounts for the darkened look to the area.

Metal work is a little different and the single point punch is very useful but still much slower than the hollow point.
A lot of metal engraving background work is stippled with a hollow punch but in use the tiny dots are carefully punched so they do not overlap each other. They sit next to each other touching but not overlapping.
Factory Winchester, Colt and other work was often done like that. Other engravers used the same techniques.

Long Rifles,,I don't know. I'll go with Mike on that...

You can cover the work surface quite quickly doing the stippling either on wood or metal if you get that bounch back rhythm  going betw your hand/wrist and the punch and hammer strikes.

[P.W.Berkuta]

It's YOUR rifle so do as you wish . It does add depth to the carving weather or not it was done on American long rifles.

[Daryl]

Stained stippling is VERY common today on "air" rifles.
These are stippling punches.
The stippling on the gun pictured by the OP of this thread, appears to have been accomplished
with a single pointed punch. The one Stoner presented, done with a multi-point punch.

[DavidC]

If you've an idea for a more historical alternative to occupy that space I'm all eyes, otherwise the historicity is irrelevant.

[DaveL]

If you have Kindig’s Thoughts on the Kentucky Rifle book check out the work of John Noll, he has several pictured but no 240 was the one that I was thinking of with cross hatching that fills carving background.

I’m sure there’s other places it’s pictured, maybe even online?

[flinchrocket]

Cross hatching was used by Jacob Kuntz.

[Keith Zimmerman]

I have an original Jeager with that stippling on it

[smart dog]

Hi David,
Cross hatching or checkering is a good alternative found on some original long rifles.  Here are examples of my work some of which was inspired by John Noll, and Isaac Haines that use checkering to add depth and shading.





Checkering with dots is very effective but to be honest, I really like the stippling you referred to.  It looks more sophisticated and almost like shaded engraving. Unfortunately, I cannot think of any examples on American long rifles or other American-made guns from the 18th and early 19th centuries.  Then again, maybe that doesn't matter.

dave 

[Craig Wilcox]

I've used a small nail set with cross-marks done with my screw-head file.

[DavidC]

Thanks for breathing life back into this question!

Keith, I'd love to see more of that Jaeger if you have photos showing the rest of it.

Smart Dave (Dog), I wanted to duplicate that shading effect for a personal range and woods project that I was also trying to cram with as many forms of decoration as caught my fancy so I could see what I'd like to focus on for a plank build of some Pittsburgh area rifle. I've narrowed my focus and shifted away from the original idea but I'm still curious about it and plan to play with some old nail sets, gouges, and half ground punches while doing some decorative picture frames for my parents.

Thanks for your insight!

[Bob Roller]

A simple tool for some of this can be made from 1018 in any size it can be found in including hexagon with a metal checkering file.
I personally prefer the "fence post simple"SMR like Len Meadows made for me in 1965 but there is a reason for "chocolate,strawberry.and vanilla".My admiration for the skill needed to make such elaborate rifles is off the chart and I wish I had it but I live in my own reality and  don't worry about what can never be.

Bob Roller