PROBLEM BROWNING THE BARREL

[yip]

  using L.M.F. browning and having problems with copper coloring in two places on the barrel, about 10" from the breech and about 6" from the muzzle. i've done other barrels before using the same solution. what the heck am i doing wrong?

[Jim Filipski]

When I started using LMF Brown solution I always got copper plating!
Not sure who mentioned it to me but I was told to dilute the concentrate with Distilled water by 50%....it worked
Jim

[Stoner creek]

I’m getting good results from excessive use of Windex both prior to and during applications. High humidity helps too.

[Eric Krewson]

Pretend it isn't there, go over the same place with your next coat and the next, it will go away and blend in like it never existed.

[Craig Wilcox]

Yip, those first few coats need to go on very thin, and don't let your swab go over a previous swipe.

Squeeze your applicator so it goes on very thin.  Sometimes, heating the barrel with a heat gun really helps a lot - and the solution will dry and start forming rust immediately.  And card gently - I use one of the thin-wire carding wheels from Brownell's - at a fairly slow speed and gentle touch.

You'll have that barrel looking like an antique within the next 60 or 70 years, never fear!

[smallpatch]

Yip,
You’re rubbing to hard.
I’d sand it off and start over, then lightly wipe on the solution with a swab, or cloth.
DONT go over it, trying to overlap the liquid.
The stuff is almost full proof.

[foresterdj]

My expertise seems to be in doing things wrong. I started with LMF, first 2 coats were going well, then got too much steam in my humidity tent, it condensed droplets (I think) and started pitting spots, sanded off and started over.

Try 2, overlapped applications apparently equals rubbing that the instructions say not to do, got copper color, kept trying but after several applications nothing seemed to change. Sanded back to a very fine grit and started over.

Try 3, on the fine smooth surface rusting did not seem to want to start, suggestion was to draw file and start over, I did.

Try 4, after draw file I did a 150 grit and got started with a couple coats, but with all the starting over was then out of solution, ordered more and waited a week for it to show up. Continued on, had some small localized copper areas that I lightly went over with 0000 steel wool and kept going. Eventually after 9 total applications I called it good, the couple spots that were still not the same uniform brown were on the bottom so not seen.

So, tanks to suggestions from others, I finally had success. If small copper areas, card lightly and keep going worked. If all over, sand down and start over, but don't go too fine. Don't overlap applications. Be sure barrel is cooled to room temperature between applications (if you flooded it with warm water after carding, too warm is also a potential issue I hear).

[Eric Krewson]

You don't need that many applications, 2 or 3 are fine, just let the barrel rust and card it a couple times a day, I use a patch of course denim.



This is 3 applications, i sanded to 220 before I started, I had a few small copper spots the went away on subsequent coats, I applied the LMF with an acid brush.

 

This is two applications;



This is an acid brush;

[yip]

i sanded the top 5 flats this morning and plan to apply browning again today, hope it works this time.

[Eric Krewson]

The brushes pictured above are from Harbor Freight, $2.99 for 36 of them. They really put on a heavy coat of LMF,, perhaps that is why I don't have to recoat very much.

All of the above barrels were left to rust 5 or 6 days or until I liked the color and neutralized, both of them continued to rust a little after multiple coat of ammonia and baking soda but they stopped on their own after a while. The top one went on for about a month.

Here is the second barrel pictured after one coat of LMF and a night outside under a roof to keep the dew off the metal. Still a little splotchy but it carded back to what the second picture shows.

[Eric Krewson]

I put another coat of LMF over the carded red rust, left it outside for one more night then brought inside my unheated shop and just let it rust. I might card it 3 or 4 times a day, when ever I thought about it, like I said it took several days for the patina to build up to what I wanted.

[B.Barker]

I personally like Danglar's browning solution myself. It seems to work a bit slower but is easier to stop the rusting when you are finished.

[yip]

SMALL PATCH; i sanded it back down and applied th L.M..F. and worked out fine THANKS!