Whoops... may need some help with nosecap

[New2this]

Hi all -
The overhaul on my Bedford hand-me-down is going great... really starting to look like it should have in the first place. However, today when I removed the nosecap (which was glued to the barrel by the previous "builder") I noticed that the muzzle-end portion of the wood had been removed to about 2 1/2 inches behind the muzzle. Now, being that this is normally where one would rivet the nose cap on, I have no place to do it. What should I do? I'd hate to have to get a new stock for this thing just on acount of this wood missing, as it has been such an enjoyable project so far.

Any help is, as always, greatly appreciated. Thanks folks

[Ky-Flinter]

Just a thought....  can you cut a bevel in the existing wood, from the end of the stock back and up toward the barrel channel, but staying inside the existing stock surface.  Then make a new 2-1/2" section of wood with a corresponding bevel that would mate to the existing stock wood?  That way you would have an inch or more for the glue to hold and room to install the cap properly.

Seems like I've seen a drawing of this very thing.  Also, I bet there will be other, better ideas forthcoming here.

-Ron

[Jerry V Lape]

As KYFlinter said, splice in some wood.  I might try increasing the splice strength with  a couple rectangular pieces of wood inlet into the sides of the barrel channel, bridging the splice joint to add even more glue surface and providing a mechanical reinforecment. 

I would probably opt for a straight cut versus diagonal at the splice joint and then make a new longer nose cap to cover the joint completely concealing it. 

[New2this]

Excellent ideas... thank you both very much. If I get a chance I will put up a picture of how it turns out.

[Birddog6]

  Yes, have done this & it works well.  Take a piece of  Hickory ramrod, look at the end of it & cut straight with the grain & slice  it  in 3,  parallel with the ramord. Now you have 2 rounded pieces & 1 center piece.  The rounded pieces work well in the sides of the barrel inlet & the flat piece works well in the bottom of the barrel inlet. The hickory is strong & straight grained (if you picked the correct piece) and will  work well in this repair.   If need be, make a new nosecap a tad longer to cover all traces of the repair.

Keith

[wmrike]

Concerns of PC aside, splice in some wood as others have suggested, and then reinforce it the joint with small diameter rods of carbon fiber.  The stuff is available from good hobby shops (planes, trains, etc.).  It is easy to work with and has incredible strength.  I love the stuff.

[Birddog6]

That is how they repair a broken headstock on a expensive guitar. They drill the headstock & broken piece, epoxy 2 carbon fibre rods in & then plug the drill holes. It is dozens of times stronger than the original wood.  

[New2this]

Any thoughts on what adhesive to use? I'm  considering epoxy, just hoping it holds up. What do you all think?

[KLMoors]

I can't help you on this specific repair but I do work with epoxy in a lot of things I do. Be VERY careful that you don't get it onto any wood that you are going to want to stain. Some epoxies will soak quite deeply into wood and then it will not accept any stain. It is a great product and like I say I use it a lot, but just be careful around anything that will get finished.