Pewter quantity for nose cap

[DanL]

I plan to make a poured pewter nose cap for a plains style rifle. I have read some tutorials, used the search function and other research. Most of the advise suggests to have plenty of pewter for the pour as to not have an interruption during the pour.

This begs the question: How much is plenty of pewter for a nose cap pour? I have not seen weight quantity's offered in the advise given.

I plan to acquire sufficient pewter to make a nose cap or 3. So, considering "plenty" of pewter for a nose cap, how much is Plenty for said nose cap?

Thank you,
 DanL

[RAT]

I don't know about weight, but I put enough to more-or-less fill my ladle. Not overflowing full. I use a Lodge brand cast iron ladle with a pair of vise grips clamped to the handle. I've been told it's what Lodge sells as an ash tray.



I like the long pouring spouts and it holds the right amount of pewter.

[RAT]

Here's a photo of me pouring a muzzlecap at our gunmakers fair this August.

[Hungry Horse]

Well you are going to melt it usually in a ladle ( its pretty hard to get out of a lead pot) and it has to be done in a single pour. That not only tells you how much to melt, but how big your nosecap can be. I use modern pewter that is lead free. The junk stores are full of it. It will say lead free, and will often be engraved as some sort of recognition, or trophy. Flagons, trays, candy dishes, are all good stuff. Stay away from things with multiple parts that are soldered together, the solder creates a problem.
 Be sure to skim the dross off before you pour, and pour as soon as the pewter liquifies and looks like chrome. If you heat it too long it will develop air bubbles. Good luck.
 The rod down the barrel is a good idea, especially on heavy barrels, a heated rod can make the difference between a nosecap, and one heck of a mess.
Hungry Horse

[RAT]

I tried weighting a chunk but my bathroom scale isn't sensitive enough to measure anything below 1/2 pound. I would guess the chunk weights about half that.

Keep in mind that you're not trying to add a 2 lb weight to the end of your gun. A solid end cap on a plains rifle isn't really solid. It's just a thin shell of pewter with wood underneath. I relieve the wood to a depth of about 3/32 inch. Remember to drill a couple of holes through the stock into the oblique flats of the barrel inlet. Counter sink the holes inside the barrel channel. The pewter will flow into the holes and counter sinks creating rivets that hold the fore end cap onto the stock.

I'm pouring a chevron style muzzle cap in the photo above. The rod sticking out of the barrel is a piece of 12" long x 3/8" dia all-thread with a nut and a couple of washers. This barrel is a .45 cal. I pre-heat the barrel by heating the rod sticking out of the barrel. The washers help prevent pewter from spilling into the bore. If you're doing a half stock you can just heat the barrel forward of the stock.

When I build up my mold I stick a couple of split popsicle sticks on either side of the barrel even with, but above, the top line of the stock. This creates a dam to prevent the pewter from spilling through along the outside of the barrel. I normally use double-sided tape, but here I used carpet tape. Don't forget to put a dowel rod into your ramrod hole to prevent pewter from getting into it.

After I build up my mold I punch some holes in it with a needle. This helps the air escape in front of the molten pewter. I still get some air-pocket flaws, but not as many. And... like HH says above... don't over heat the pewter. I did that when I gave that presentation... even though I know better. I don't do my best work when people are watching.

The last part of that class was showing people how to fix the flaws with a soldering iron.

[Tim Crosby]

 I always melt more than I think I need and it seems to work out well. Any excess gets poured on the floor for later use.

   Tim C.

[DanL]

Thanks for the information everyone. So the simple answer is:  “more than I think I need”.

This I will try. 

Kind Regards,
DanL

[Hungry Horse]

I forgot to add that I always go over the recessed carved areas with a good soft carpenters pencil. It helps the lead to flow quickly to all corners of the design. Good Luck.

Hungry Horse

[Clark Badgett]

Anyone ever use babbit for nose caps?

[Scota4570]

Not babbit, but I have used Linotype.  It looks fine to me.  It is very low temp and flows like water, almost.  The low temp minimizes scorching the wood. 

[Waksupi]

Anyone ever use babbit for nose caps?

I've always used babbit. I use Nicklalloy.

[Dphariss]

Not babbit, but I have used Linotype.  It looks fine to me.  It is very low temp and flows like water, almost.  The low temp minimizes scorching the wood.

Lead alloys have a couple of problems. One they do not hold color and will turn gray or black and two you get lead dust everywhere.
I have done probably 180-200  pewter tips with Silva-Brite 100 solder and have yet to scorch a stock. But I am careful and use a sliver of wood (pine usually) to test the temp. It should just scorch with a few seconds stirring. Remember the barrel is a heat sink even if heated.  I used 50-50 once upon a time but when i started doing a lot of them at Shiloh and had kids I did not like having all that lead on my clothing.
The Silva-Brite does not tarnish much if at all over time and is essentially a non-toxic pewter formula (there were many both with and without lead).

[smylee grouch]

On one poured cap that I did I didnt think I had enuf pewter so I added 1 old wheel weight and about 6 to 8 inches of silver solder to the mix. It worked good and still looks good after over 10 years now. less shinny than pure pewter. I also have a long section of 3/8" brass rod I heat up and place in the bore prior to the pour.

[Daryl]

This rifle has a poured nose cap. Seems to me I used babbit.