measure twice

[loiblb]

This stopped my build of first gun, a Lancaster large syler lock. TH not center of flash pan.

[Longknife]

Continue on, bet it doesn't affect the ign at all!....  LK

[Bill Raby]

 It will likely still work just fine. But it can be easily fixed by adding a bit of wood behind the breech and tang to move the barrel forward a little bit.

[EC121]

The hole doesn't have to centered to work well.  Don't worry about it.

[Eric Krewson]

The moral of the story is to inlet the lock first and then mark for your touch hole liner. I agree with the others, being off that little shouldn't be a problem. You could always widen the pan a little on the back side to get the hole more centered.

[smylee grouch]

I would finish building it then shoot it for a while and if you think it  not right then widen the back of the pan but very little. You still have to cover the pan with the frizzen.

[J. Talbert]

I agree that the position is not likely to cause problems, but I’m wondering if the touch hole liner remains a bit proud of the barrel flat?
Can’t tell for sure from the picture, but if that’s the case that should be dressed down further to be completely flush.

Good luck
Jeff

[Gaeckle]

Where is the touch hole liner in relationship to the breech plug? The fence looks a long way off from the back of the barrel. Regarding the position not perfectly in the pan center, it will still go off, that ignition in the pan is pretty wide and broad

[bluenoser]

There might be something else at play here if that is a White Lightning liner.
DO NOT INTERPRET THIS AS A DESPARAGING REMARK ABOUT JIM'S LINERS.  I AM A LOYAL FAN.
I noticed on my last build that the thread on a White Lightning does not continue right to the countersink.  It stops just a few thou short - leaving just a bit of a shoulder, which varies in width from liner to liner.  That shoulder prevents the liner from fully seating in the countersink.  The only remedies I came up with were to slightly counter-bore the thread in the barrel (which I would not do) or swage the edges of the liner into the countersink ( which I did).  I even considered cutting the shoulder away on the lathe.  Perhaps the OP has a similar situation.
I don't want to hijack this thread, but am curious to know if others have similar experiences and what their solutions were. This should probably be a separate thread if there is anything to discuss.

[Tim Crosby]

  It looks to me like it will be fine. I'd try it and if not make another liner and drill it where you want it?

   Tim C.

[Jim Kibler]

There might be something else at play here if that is a White Lightning liner.
DO NOT INTERPRET THIS AS A DESPARAGING REMARK ABOUT JIM'S LINERS.  I AM A LOYAL FAN.
I noticed on my last build that the thread on a White Lightning does not continue right to the countersink.  It stops just a few thou short - leaving just a bit of a shoulder, which varies in width from liner to liner.  That shoulder prevents the liner from fully seating in the countersink.  The only remedies I came up with were to slightly counter-bore the thread in the barrel (which I would not do) or swage the edges of the liner into the countersink ( which I did).  I even considered cutting the shoulder away on the lathe.  Perhaps the OP has a similar situation.
I don't want to hijack this thread, but am curious to know if others have similar experiences and what their solutions were. This should probably be a separate thread if there is anything to discuss.

You are absolutely right.  We produce our version of a touch hole liner, but machine a small thread relief right before the countersink portion begins.  We find this to allow the countersink to seat much more positively in the barrel.  In the past, I would use a ball peen hammer to tap the liner into the countersink when using Chamber's liners.

We supply these in our kits and sell them separately as well.

Jim

[Jim Kibler]

I also wonder how the touchole got so far in front of the back of the barrel?

[bama]

Jim is absolutely right about the touchhole being in front of the face of the breech from the looks of it by a good bit. I would measure down the bore with a ram rod and locate the face of the breech plug and then transfer that to the flat of the barrel that the touch hole is on. If the center of the touch hole is more than an 1/8"  to 3/16" in front of the face of the breech then this will likely cause more of a problem than the relationship of the touch hole to the center of the pan.