EZ-Out recommendation for Kibler WR vent liner?

[stan57]

Just a quick check to see if anyone has successfully removed a Kibler vent liner, and if so, what tap drill and EZ-Out extractor size did you use?

[Gemmer]

Call Jim at Kibler.

[J.M.Browning]

I use a Tig torch washer then a nut the leverage is multiplied the thread tension is also normalized .

[Jim Kibler]

Drill with a 1/8" bit then just use the appropriate sized easy-out.  We use blue loctite so it takes a bit of force, but nothing too excesive.

[stan57]

Drill with a 1/8" bit then just use the appropriate sized easy-out.  We use blue loctite so it takes a bit of force, but nothing too excesive.

Thanks Jim

[Beaverman]

Sacrilegious!

[stan57]

Sacrilegious!

LOL don't be a Pharisee...

[Jdbeck]

Sacrilegious!

Who’s got the reconversion parts 🤣🤣

[alacran]

The surprising thing is that Mr. Kibler has not offered a cap lock conversion himself.

[Leatherbark]

I believe there are still some of us that have a broad interest in all muzzleloaders.

Sometimes I have an itch to leave my Kibler Woodsrunner at home and find me an old 70's Percussion CVA Kentucky in .45 so I can emulate me in the mid 1970's wishing I had a 50 caliber Percussion TC Hawken.

Bob

[Dphariss]

Drill with a 1/8" bit then just use the appropriate sized easy-out.  We use blue loctite so it takes a bit of force, but nothing too excesive.

Thanks Jim

If you do this make SURE the drum is well supported by the lock plate. Cold rolled drums have been known to break off and become projectiles. Cold rolled does not like impacts and these things do not have radius cuts at the rebate which makes it even more likely to fail. I don’t do drum and nipple guns. The old iron drums would bend. Cold rolled steels are intentionally made brittle and have very low numbers in Charpy Impact Testing. Both “Stress Proof” (1144 cold rolled “free machining) and Fatigue Proof (12L14 leaded screw stock) tend to break at the rebate unless very carefully radiused. 

[stan57]

edited to remove old geezer curmudgeon response

[P.W.Berkuta]

Drill with a 1/8" bit then just use the appropriate sized easy-out.  We use blue loctite so it takes a bit of force, but nothing too excesive.

Thanks Jim

I think your cap lock woods runner look neat  -- as said make sure that your drum is supported by your lock plate. I do like the look Hope it works well for you.

[stan57]

I think your cap lock woods runner look neat  -- as said make sure that your drum is supported by your lock plate. I do like the look Hope it works well for you.

Thanks, but not mine! Copied pic off of MLF thread on this very subject. If I remember correctly, the pic was taken at a Kibler open house. Don't think Jim did it, tho.

Planning something similar... Maybe....

[Leatherbark]

I'd weaken that mainspring someway.  I do believe a Woodsrunner mainspring is really strong. Might be too strong to hit a nipple even if it is in a patent breech.

Bob

[Dphariss]

Weak percussion springs cause excessive hammer bounce, gas escape and this can result in fragments, etc, hitting the shooter in the face. So long as there is a cap on the nipple a stiff mainspring should not cause any problems. Personally, if it were me I would cut the barrel back and use  “patent” type percussion breech as is found on the spuriously stamped heavy long rifle conversion with the Hawken stamp on the barrel. While its possible Hawken may have converted it and even stamped the barrel they did not make that rifle.
W. Greener in the “The Gun” from  1835 was not a fan of converting flintlocks to percussion with a drum and nipple and I am not either.