Wood/caliber decision

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

In my experience, most of the wear and tear that a rifle receives comes from getting in and out of vehicles, or transporting them in one.  In the field, my rifle is in its element and is in no danger of getting beat up.  I do not hesitate to take any of my rifles into the field regardless of their worth in dollars/euros.  I have no "safe-queens".  In fact, I find that a rifle that has not been taken out and shot for a period of time gets poutie, and doesn't shoot as well as when I take it out more frequently.
Regarding powder, don't hesitate to use your 3Fg powder in anything you have.  One of our local shooters only owns a 20 gauge smoothbore (Chambers Pennsylvania fowler), and he shoots a .600" ball, heavy cotton patch and 85 gr. 3Fg GOEX all day long...he is very difficult to beat on the trail shoots.
Regarding wood species, Mr. Kibler will not sell you a piece of wood that is inappropriate for the gun you're building.  I have no way of knowing how you handle your rifle in the field, but I doubt you mistreat it, so don't be afraid of getting a guns stock that won't be tough enough for you.
Calibre:  a .50 is a good compromise for your needs and you will enjoy shooting round balls with it, and it is still very representative of what was used in the period of history we are emulating.

[Jeff Murray]

I have hunted with a 50 caliber rifle with a Getz barrel stocked in cherry for over 40 years.  Have harvested javalina, hogs, deer, antelope, elk.  Only 4 just went down immediately when hit.  All were very close shots including one elk.  Most went between 25 and 50 yards from point of impact.  The 50 is very capable if you manage range and shot placement.  The stock has developed patina over the years, including a few small dings.  I really like the character of the wood as it now appears.  Still my favorite.  PIck the wood you like best.

[mikeyr]

 I have a Kibler in .36 that is not finished, I never finished it...but I shoot it a lot.  Still in the white with bare wood, I thought at the time I would do a rough assembly and go shooting in the morning, take it apart and finish it...never did the finish part. I have a .54 woodsrunner on the way, I will finish both at the same time.   The .36 is great for plinking and target shooting, easy on the shoulder, would make a great varmint rifle.  The .54 was purchased for hunting, my other BP rifle is a Thomspon Center Hawken in .50 that I bought back in the 1980s assembled by TC.   I was going to go with a .50 woodsrunner but the lady on the phone said the .54 was better balanced, so that is what is on the way...someday soon.  Never felt under powered when hunting with the .50

[Rado]

The more I know the more Im thinking the Colonial in .54 would be the best choice.
Many people are saying they shoot 3Fg powder even in a .54 cal with great sucess. This caliber wouldnt restrict me in the shooting distances like a .45 would do.
And since I learned  that it was a requirement for the Minute Men to have a gun with at least 42" barrel...
The Kibler Colonial in .54 cal has it all.

[tiswell]

I have the Kibler Colonial in .54. I shoot 75 grains of 3f swiss behind a .530 Hornady ball, patched with a canvas from Joanns fabric (thickness escapes me). I lube with track mink oil. The gun shoots very well with this load. I have yet to find a patch material that will hold up with a .535 ball.  When I ordered the kit the .58 was not offered, I am not sure if I would have went with it or not. I am extremely happy with this gun. It is no surprise here that Jim is a perfectionist.

   I have a Woodsrunner kit on order and will jump on the trade gun/smoothbore kit when it is offered.

[Rado]

Yep. I ve heared in several muzzle loader-instruction videos that 50 cal is the maximum for 3Fg  powder, yet on this forum alone there are a dozen people who say it works perfectly in a .54 caliber rifle. So...I changed my mind several times now but summing up all the arguments I have heard untill now, .54 Colonial is THE Kibler rifle for me.

Im already thinking about a bag mold for it. But first the rifle, then I can worry about the mold.
TOW molds seem not to be that good and I dont know how to call Callahan-Bagmolds from Germany. He seems not to have an e mail. Therefore I doubt he will have PayPal...but this is a future problem.
Several things are more difficult to get over here in Europe, than I thought when I decided to get myself a Longrifle, plus authentic equipment for it.
I will have to make compromises here and there.

[Daryl]

Making up one's mind on "things" is sometimes the hardest part of building.

[Rado]

Yeah sometimes Im even thinking if I shouldnt save some more money and get me a really authentic reproduction rifle, instead of a mass produced kit. I know that I will if it turns out that Longrifles work for me.
But what would I do after spending 3000-4000 on a hardcore reenactor worthy rifle and find out that I cant hit a barn door with a flintlock.

[Daryl]

Learn to shoot it. I was in that "cant' hit a thing with this flintlock" boat a number of years ago.  The only way to get over it, is to
wear safety glasses and do it. I'm not bad with a flintlock rifle now, quite good off a bench, but now and again I still flinch, whether
I'm shooting a .36, .50 or the 20 bore. "IT" happens, need to get over it.

[Rado]

Yesterday I ordered a Kibler Colonial in 54. cal with extra fancy maple.
I dont think I will regret it.
 

[dadybear1]

MYSELF, IVE KILLED DEER  WITH 36- 54 CAL ROUND BALLS WITH NO PROBLEM WITH AN OCCAISIONAL RUNNER!!!  HOWEVER IM PARTIAL TO 50 AND 54 SINCE IT DOES HAVE A BETTER SMACK, AND ITS EASIER FOR ME TO SEE THE HOLES AT THE RANGE---LOL.