French flat point awl

[Dennis Daigger]

I’m looking for someone that has experience using the French flat point awls for leather stitching that can explain exactly how its use might differ from the diamond point. Some questions: Is it skewed away from the stitch line as the diamond point is? Are there nuances to using one of these compared to the diamond point? Do they require more force to create a hole?

Thanks in advance,
Dennis

[James Rogers]

The ones I have seen in historical context had curved blades and were for the shoemaker trade to join sole to welt. The ones I see being used by moderns and termed the same name appear to he straight and seem to be more associated with the use of the pricking iron. The "French" name appears to be in harmony with how they describe a standard pricking iron as "French" to distinguish from the Asian chisels. This might mean they use them presently in lieu of the stitching/saddlers/ harness awlsl to accompany the angle of the iron with the intent of not opening  the hole to the sides.. The bayonet or diamond shapes create a better lay to the stitching.  I don't know of anyone who uses the straight flats and  this is just off the top of my head as I dont use them either. Maybe someone more versed in the shoe trade can correct anything above or add to it.

[Dennis Daigger]

Thanks, James. Tool retailers seem to imply these awls are an alternative to the diamond point but I haven’t found any information to support this, thus the questions. It does seem that sharpening the tip of a flat point would be simpler.
Dennis

[thecapgunkid]

Not seeing a picture, I'd say bet on James R.  A curved awl in general is used to deftly and slightly pry the leather being sewn.  Back in the day shoemakers used it in conjunction with pigs hair bristles  which would slide through a slightly off center hole.   The sturdy blade on these things is to facilitate going smoothly through tough sole and welting leather.   The idea was to strap the shoe to the thigh, push against the stitch from the bottom of the shoe with index and thumb, and manipulate the hole so that it came out exactly in either in a groove cut into the sole or under a flap sliced into the bottom of the sole which would later be folded over the stitch line to protect it from the ground.

I once saw my Master, Waldomir Billy, use one at Bethpage Village.  The trick is to keep that tapered point very sharp and polished.  I have several and like none.  Give me a flat point and thicker shank every time. A horizontal hole rather than the vertical one will hold just as tight providing you don't use a jerk stitch.

James??

[thecapgunkid]

Sorry I didn't clarify above.  The French awl with a curved blade is different from the straight shanked French Awl.  In the case of the straight shank, you have to want slit like holes and the awl should be thoroughly polished to slide through smoothly. The curved awl blade has the same knife like edge, but the blade edge runs vertically to the stab so it can pry and leverage the stabbed hole.  That's what is needed to sole a shoe.

Sorry.

[Dennis Daigger]

I did a quick comparison of saddle stitching with a diamond and a French awl side-by-side on some leather scrap. Awl blades were turned about 45 degrees from the seam line. The French awl worked as well as the diamond awl and gave good results. Because the French awl doesn’t have a point bit more care was needed to center the tip on the centerline of the seam.







Dennis

[Marcruger]

I will stick with the diamond awl Dennis.  I was taught that the center of the diamond is the opening for your needle point to pass through.  Then pull back opposite the direction of progress and the first thread tucks back into the back end corner.  This leaves way for needle number two to go through the hole without catching/nicking the first thread.  Then I cinch both ends up.  The thread wax holds things steady.  Then on to the next hole.  My take would be that a straight slot makes passing the needles through harder, and to no advantage.  In some difficult areas I can see the straight slots being a serious disadvantage.  I was also taught that a diamond awl hole will close up and become invisible when the stitching is hammered flat (seems to work).  Not sure about a straight slot hole.  I am certainly no expert, so take my thoughts for what they are worth.  Between my dad dying a year ago, cleaning out his house for 11 months, and my own house catastrophe 3 months ago, I have had no time or access to equipment for leather working.   God Bless,   Marc

[Dennis Daigger]

Thanks for your thoughtful comments, Marc, especially your techniques for stitching.

Although I’m not suggesting that the French awl is a better choice it did work quite nicely.

Dennis

[thecapgunkid]

Dennis;
Take a look at these guys




a simple search will find vendors.  If you want to use the curved version along with the straight one you posted, make sure the point is absurdly sharp and polished.  The master shoe maker who taught me was very proficient with one, but I never really took to the up and down motion to drill the hole.  I like to stab straight through and the  technique of the French Awl never really appealed to me.

I could break one shank a day if I put my feeble mind to it...