Building Bean Mountain Rifle

[Bean]

I am building a Bean Rifle and would like advice (first build) on what to choose for the metal surfacing and the wood staining.  What would be recommended?  I'm looking for ease and quality but mainly lean to quality.
Thanks,
Bob Bean

[Bill of the 45th]

Bob, first off welcome to the Forum. We're talking Southern iron mounted rifles here, so barrels were browned predominately, but some were left in the white.  as for the hardware, butt plate, trigger guard, and thimbles, the are generally blackened, which is after forging they are treated with bee's wax or BLO while still hot.  The stock, is stained any way you want, the main color comes mostly from the use of A/F aqua fortis.  Most on this site go that way, but a number of guys use other stains, but almost no one gets a can of modern stain from the hardware store. Finish is anything from Tung, oil, to BLO, to bee's wax.  Search the archives for more specific info, and ask questions.  We welcome newbies, and nobody bites, cept Don Getz, and only when he's hungry, or hasn't had his morning coffee.  Hope that gets you started.

Bill

[brokenflint]

Bean an fyi here BLO = Boiled linseed oil   

Broke

[Bean]

OK, I wa wondering what theat meant.

In regards to the Lock, how do you brown it?  Do you do it to the whole lock?  Dissassymble it ?  Just not sure about this.  I know I certainly don't want to allow any rust to get into the works?

I bought a Siler-Chambers large Flintlock.


Sorry for the newbies questions.

[Bill of the 45th]

Bean, you don't need to do anything to the lock but polish it a bit, and let it age naturally, but if you wish to brown it, you do need to disassemble and only do the outside surfaces.  As to the large siler, it's a germanic style, and not appropriate to Southern mountain rifles,  the late Ketland by chambers is more correct.  You want an English style lock.  Before you start your build, you should really get some books.  Noble's on southern rifles, and then a couple on building the long rifle.  I think most everyone will agree that Dixon's book, and Alexander's, are pretty good places to start.  If you haven't altered the lock, you can probably exchange it as this is your first build.  Slow down a little , do the research, and you will get a good representation of a Bean, or Bull, or Beal.  We want you to do it right.

Bill

[Pete G.]

I second what Mr. Knapp said about the lock. The Siler is an excellent lock, but it is the wong style. I believe all of Chambers locks use pretty much the same internals, so the quality is the same. All of the Chambers locks are of excellent quality. Nothing more frustrating than to take a new rifle to the range and find out that you need to re-work the lock just to get the thing to fire reliably. You will not have that problem with a Chambers. Put the Siler on the shelf for your next build; once you get started on this ride you don't get off easily. There WILL be another build.

[Bean]

Will do.  I was working off what track of the wolf suggested and put together for me.  I am sure I will be building several of these.  I love to tinker and have hobby built boats, planes and many other firearms for bench and race.  Gotta have the toys to keep the mind free from too much work.

I came across this site after I had ordered the parts.  You guys are a great resource.

[Bill of the 45th]

Hey, Pete G.  Mr. Knapp's my Dad, I may be retired but I haven't reached Social Security age yet.

Bill

[G-Man]

The Chambers late Ketland has become most people's favorite for these style rifles.  It is an excellent lock.  There are other styles by other makers (Davis, etc.) you can use too - but stick with a late flint, English style.   You can't go wrong with the Chambers.  I don' think all of Jim's locks use the same internals, but his "medium sized" locks (i.e. the late Ketland and large Siler) do.  The size is pretty much equivalent, but since you will typically be using two-piece sideplates on these types of rifles, that is not such an imporatant consideration for a mountain rifle.  Also, if for this type of rifle, most people remove the little nub at the tail so it is just rounded.

Any of the above methods are appropriate for the hardware, and I will add that I have seen a number of original mountain rifles that have hardware that looks to have been browned at the same time, and by using the same process, as the barrels.  Now, as some have pointed out, it is very hard to tell a naturally acquired brown (like you see on an antique tool- just from handling) from a chemical brown, but on some of the examples I have seen it just looks a little too even to have been natural use and aging.  But the browns have a glossy, "in the metal" look to them, rather than most of the browned finihses you see today.

As far as books, I would stick with one that deals with the the most basic construction tips - like the Dixon book - and study as many good originals and contemporary guns as you can.  Also - go find some builders - there are probablly some folks on this board near you - or seek them aout at some regional shows - most will be happy to give you tips on your work as it progressess.

Good luck

Guy