Gun oil?

[Kurt]

Do petroleum gun oils make black powder cleanup more difficult? I based this question on the said to be positive benefit of Bore Butter in that it "makes clean up easier" because it has no petroleum in it. I have also done some research on Ballistol, which is mostly mineral oil, a petroleum distillate. Also, do you think automobile windshield washer fluid would make a good muzzleloader cleaner? Thank you

[Jerry]

In the past I have mixed windshield washer fluid, Murphy’s oil soap, and water solvable oil. I now use commercial products. After cleaning I use Maine Shooting Supplies patch lube. In contacting them, they told me it had a rust preventative in it. I have never had a problem with rust. In the past, I have used Bore Butter. For me, I have not seen any problem with using petroleum products for short term storage. Before going to the range, I run a patch soaked with alcohol down the bore. Taking another alcohol patch to clean flint and frizzen face. This works for me. Jerry

[Joe Stein]

Anyone who has a question about black powder lubes would do well to use the search function and search for "black powder lube" and also just "lube," and the poster name of "Mad Monk." Mad Monk was Bill Knight (RIP). He knew more about black powder and lubes than anyone, having done years of research and testing on them. He was an industrial chemist who was consultant to a number of companies that made black powder and lubes, and often posted here. Any of the old-timers here are familiar with him.
I remember that he posted that mineral oil was refined in such a way that it doesn't form the same type of residue as say, your typical oils like engine oil or 3- in-1 oil and grease. It has been successfully used in some commercially manufactured black powder lubes.
That's all I remember that he posted about mineral oil, but I am sure there was more.
Anyway, do the search, and happy reading.
Joe

[Daryl]

Petroleum waxes (Vaseline) will work in conjunction with other waxes, such as Beeswax, to make bullet lubes suitable for black powder shooting. These are not patch lubes.
Petroium oils do not soften or mix with BP fouling.
Balistol is a water soluble oil,  thus it will make up a patch lube, as-is or mixed with water. Many use it. Other water soluble oils also make good patch lubes.
Many of us "up here" use winter windshield washer fluid with some added oil, for patch lube. We mostly use cool or cold water for cleaning  as instructed by Holland and Holland, the UK gun making firm.
In our average of 50%humidity, I simply use the last flush of WD40 (patched out) as my storage oil until the gun's next use.  Never rusting with over a years storage after cleaning.

[axelp]

I am in California and it's not terribly humid here either. I clean bp fouling with tepid/cold water, then use WD40 and like Daryl, I have never had a rust issue even after longterm storage. The only rust issue I have had was when I tried hot water and got a little flash rust after a day or so. Another thing that slows down cleaning and encourages after-cleaning rust, is mixing oils with fouling before cleaning. But that is my experience and might be different for other locations.

BP fouling is very easy to dissolve with plain water when the fouling is mostly free of oils. if oil or oily solvent is added to the mess, it takes me three times as long to get rid of the fouling, and I will often need to add an oil cutting dish soap like dawn to the cold water, to help out. If I keep the fouling free of oil, I don't need the dish soap.

After the water comes out clean, and the patches are free of color, I run a dry patch, and then WD40 soaked patches down the bore. I will check the gun after a few days, and sometimes run a patch or two of WD40 down the bore again, but not always. I can let my guns sit for a year- even 2 years that way, and when I check the bores, they are free of rust usually.

Another issue I found was the difference my lesser used bp guns handle fouling and rust compared to the guns I use more often. The newer gun gets fouled more and rusts more when out in the field. I have found that the more I use and clean the gun over time, the easier it is to clean and the better they handle bp fouling and less rust occurs. I know some might define that as "seasoning" but I don't. I interpret that as a result of "burnishing" the bore with regular use. I have no scientific support for that, just seems to be that way.

K

I have used Lehigh Valley Lube, Ballistol, ATF, and WD 40 and found that all 4 work about as well as a rust inhibitor. I settled with WD40 because it was already in my house and easy to get.

Ken

[Kurt]

Joe, Daryl, and Ken Thank you. I have always used bore butter as patch lube and to protect the bore and other metal after cleaning but I am always into new suggestions and I'm cheap. I heard a lot about Ballistol so I bought an aerosol can of it and it sprays like a foam which I don't care for, and I discovered it is mostly mineral oil. Mineral oil is cheaper straight. It also mixes with water as I am sure all of you know, and water is a good BP corrosive eliminator. I was thinking, mineral oil and windshield washer fluid? Thanks to all of you again, and I will search Mad Monk for more information!

[MuskratMike]

I was going to write a fairly lengthy response but instead just read what Ken Prather wrote. It is exactly what the 'ol "Muskrat" uses and does. Just shows you Ken is a wise sage.

[Pukka Bundook]

Mike,
Yes Ken hit the nail on the head.

[Bob Gerard]

I have been using synthetic motor oil for eons, for both lock and barrel. Took my re-stocked Brown Bess out for a reenactment last weekend ( it’s about 40 years old now). I keep it stored in my woodshop closet, and there was not a speck of rust to be found inside or out.
Cleans up with tap water and a few wiping and then drying patches, and finally oil patch.
Keep it simple.

[Kurt]

Thank you for the additional responses and advice it is appreciated.