Squaring up a stock blank

[KShatwell]

I am curious to know how you guys go about squaring up a stock blank. Specifically how much of the blank needs to be squared and the techniques you use

[mgbruch]

The entire blank needs to be square.  Always.  Until it comes time for shaping things like the wrist and butt.  I square it up to begin with, if it needs it.  After cutting the top away for the barrel, I square up that top flat I've cut with the sides.  I do the same after I cut the bottom part off for the ramrod groove.  I saw it again, the whole forearm, when I prepare my lock panels for inletting the lock.  I saw the forearm one last time to bring the width in front of the lock panels down for the final shaping.  And I square it up then too.  I just use a combination square for determining square.  For working the wood I use whatever is appropriate; planes and/or rasps.  Working with everything square really makes a difference, for me, in achieving good final architecture.  I use a drill press for the pin holes for barrel lugs and ramrod pipes... and a square stock means straight drilled holes.  I'm pretty anal; and it works for me to prepare the stock for each phase of the work.

[P.W.Berkuta]

Years ago I would bandsaw out my gun's profile then using a selection of hand planes I would square up the stock except for the bottom that's because I would most likely be trimming off some of the "extra" wood. Now a days I use a jointer and a surface planer to do this work. It saves me a LOT of time and ENERGY.

[alacran]

I have never bought a blank that was perfect.  First off, I use my jointer to make the top of the blank straight. I place the lock side of the blank against the Jointer's fence. This procedure makes the top of the blank square with the lock side of the blank. I check it with a machinist combination square every two inches. I make sure it is straight as possible on both the top and lock side of the blank.
I then run the blank through my planer to make the thickness consistent throughout the blank.
The top of the blank becomes the baseline where all the measurements are taken, when laying out the gun.

[Jim Kibler]

It’s not really necessary to square up a blank.  Might make things a touch easier, but not required at all.

[Ron Scott]

I agree with Jim about a stock blank not needing to be square. In 40 plus years of professional flintlock building I have never started with a blank the was intentionally squared. If you establish and maintain accurate center lines on your blank, you have reference for all your inlets and shaping. That added benefit is you don't have to buy a blank of extra thickness with the knowledge that you will lose some of the thickness in truing it up.

[sz]

I always square up the top and the lock side of all my blanks. (right sire for RH rifle and left side for LH rifles)
The other side and the bottom are easy to cut true, once you have the top and 1 side square.

 Keep in mind that the barrel should go in "north, south, east, and west" and that all things on the gun will true-up from the top and sides of the barrel.
 So the rest of the waste wood gets cut off anyway. A small hand square to check your progress from the top flat is all that's really needed once you have the barrel in.

[A.Merrill]

  I've never squared a blank.   Al

[Not English]

I pretty much quit squaring up blanks after losing access to planers and jointers. As Ron said a good centerline is all you need. Everything else relates to barrel location.

[David Rase]

Squared up stocks are highly over rated.
David

[P.W.Berkuta]

For those of you that can lay out and shape a stock without starting off with at least two sides (top and lock side) square I commend you. As for me I find it much easier to have the stock wood square at least on two sides (top and lock side). I tried once to shape a rifle stock like Daved showed and it took me twice as long to shape and get all the parts installed correctly. Your A Better Man Than I am Gunga Din