Best type of 1/16" drill bit???

[Justin Urbantas]

What would you guys suggest as the best type/brand of 1/16" drill bit for drilling holes for pinning barrels,  thimbles etc? Something that cuts well, lasts and won't snap off in a hole. Thanks

[David Rase]

Stay away from the big box stores and buy from an industrial supply house.  I buy all my drill bits and taps from a place here in Washington called Tacoma Screw.  I am sure McMaster Carr and places like that have what you need.  Most industrial supply houses stock cheap Chinese junk as well as quality name brand items so be aware. 

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Justin< I buy mine from a local tool supply store in bulk packages.  It's a fool's errand to try to use a worn out drill bit to do precision work.  Also, high speed and slow feed is important.

[Jim Kibler]

Any decent brand of HSS will be fine.  Cleveland, Chicago Latrobe etc. work well.  Most breakage comes from not spinning fast enough and the impact when breaking through a hole in metal.  It's good to be a little more gentle with the pressure or feed when you expect to break through.  Cleaning packed flutes often is also a big help.

[JLayne]

I’ve broken so many cheap 1/16 “ bits that I now buy them in packs of 12 and just drill one hole with each and throw them out as I go. There’s a broken one serving as the pin that holds the rear ramrod thimble in place on my first Chambers kit from a few years back. It was just easier to leave it where it broke off rather than try and get it out and maybe cause a bigger problem.

Jay

[P.W.Berkuta]

Jim's and Dave's advice is spot on. I buy my small drills in 6 or 12 packs. They are cheap to buy so why not get more than a few at a time. HSS is all you will need.

[Tim Crosby]

 When drilling through wood and then a tab I find it easier to drill through the wood marking the tab, remove it, drill through the tab, put it back and finish. Unless you have a centering jig like David used to make your hole on the other side usually is less than parallel or opposite the starting hole. A spot of oil doesn't hurt either.

   Tim C.

[Justin Urbantas]

Thanks for the tips guys. I'll stock up at the industrial supply place in town.
I do have one of the point to point drilling jigs.

[Pukka Bundook]

Justin,
all your bust drills make good pins, LOL!

I like the hex shank.   

[Justin Urbantas]

Haha as long as you never have to remove them.

[flatsguide]

Take Dave and Jim’s advice. HSS only and don’t be afraid to crank up the RPM. Cleveland drills are really good. I use screw machine or stub length drills. They are shorter and stiffer. There really should be no visible runout on the drill when held in the chuck. The trick if there is one to getting a deep hole to be straight is to make sure the first part or about 3 diameters of the drill is started properly. Center punch and use a center drill. For small drills the part should be clamped down so they can not wander even a little bit. Most machines won’t spin fast enough for the recommended RPM in steel 1/16 inch HSS, 8,000 RPM. Use lubricant and peck drill that way you will clear the chips often. Chips are the major cause, after running too slow, of broken drills and drifting holes. Don’t let the drill dwell in the bottom of the hole, it will dull it and if you are drilling tool steel it will harden the steel st that spot and there is a possibility that you will not be able to continue drilling unless you have a carbide drill. So always take a chip and slow down your feed when you’re starting to break through the metal. Another thought. Drills tend to cut oversized hole. One reason is the point is ground uneven making the small chisel point off to one side, another reason to buy quality drill bits.
Hope this helps.
CheersRichard

[Bill Raby]

Listen to flatsguide. Technique matters a lot more than the brand. Use lube when drilling through metal. And use a drill press.

[oldtravler61]

  Lot of good advice. I've broken a few to until I got smart ( ? ) I drill through to pipe enough to mark it. Back the drill out by not pulling it out. Then remove pipe and then finish drilling. I use a hand drill and to me it works very well.

[WKevinD]

I use #49 bits I buy in packs of 12 from MSC and use finish nails for pins. I also use a drill press and go slow withdrawing to clear chips a number of times. The only time I break a bit is when I use a hand drill. I also mark and drill all forend pins while the stock is still squared and punch a starter hole with a nailset.

Kevin