Salutations fm the northern climes. Followed by browning question.

[Swampyankee]

Post #1, besides a hardy hello, a question concerning browning. I would like a browning solution that doesn't require sweat tanks, torches or any other accouterments. I've come across an offering from RE Davis but more options are always better, what have you, the reader, used?
TiA

[smylee grouch]

Welcome Swampy. Cold Browning does not need a sweat tank per se . its just easier with one. A simple sheet of plastic to form a " tent " around it will work. Your results will vary according to the humidity so some
 kind of enclosed area is best.

[Dave Marsh]

LMF Browning solution is what I use.  Humidity is the key.  I use my utility sink with water in the bottom and the barrel hung in it covered with a plastic garbage bag on top for short barrels like pistols and TC barrels.  For longer barrels I hang them in the shower.  Nothing complicated.  Just follow the directions. 

[silky]

Hi,

I live in the high desert but have had very good success running a humidifier in the guest bathroom.  It works well enough and fast enough that I have been able do a morning and evening application/carding, so 2-3 days to get it done.  And that's using the Laurel Mountain Forge browning solution.

No guests during browning ops...

I hope this helps.

- Tom

[bptactical]

I hung plastic sheeting from the joists in the basement with a steam humidifier- worked like a champ.

[Swampyankee]

Thanks for the info all, I reckon my basement in the summer will suffice for a good source of humidity, probably take me that long to get the stock squared away anyway.

[mgbruch]

I fill the bathtub with about three inches of warm water, hang the pieces from the shower rod, and shut the door.

[mikeyfirelock]

I second Laurel Mountain Forge browning solution.   I used to make my own according to George Schoyen’s formula, but LMF is better. I also use a Bivins style browning box. Simple  to make and to use and not expensive to make .  If you are anywhere near NW Indiana contact me.
mikeyfirelock.

[Pukka Bundook]

If you are looking for a browning solution to bring out the figure in a stub twist, it's a different mix to a plum brown type, Swampy.

[kutter]

I use LMF as well and have for about 40yrs.
Rust Brown or for Cold Rust Blue.

I use the 'Hang the parts in the shower after steaming up the room' to rust them if 'in a hurry'. That'll get you a rust coating in an hour and a half usually.
 I use that for the Rust Bluing jobs mostly as the soln is reapplied each cycle.
Slow Rust Blue a set of Sxs bbls in a day or so. that way.

For Rust Brown, I may use that for the first cycle to get it going. But after that and the first carding, I just
let it rust naturally hanging in the shop.
No Damp Box.
The shop is 66*F. Don't know what the Humidity is. Outside in winter it's generally in the 20's and 30's here.
It takes a day or more to form the next rust coating, but it does it's thing and then I card that off and hang it up again.

I DO  NOT RECOAT the bbl with LMF soln after each carding.
The only time it gets a coating of soln is the very first coating. Then after the first carding if it looks a bit weak I will recoat only the second cycle.
From then on, the rusting is totally done from that orig coating(s) of soln.
Only carding is done to the surfaces.,,either grey scotchbrite or 0000steel wool.

The stuff is very aggressive and I've found it un-necessary to keep adding soln to keep it rusting.
CArding removes the loose rust. The chemical is still on the surface. I see no reason to keep adding more.
(Rust Bluing is different as you are stopping the rusting process each cycle by boiling. To get it to rust again you must re-coat with soln)

The common complaint w/LMF is that people can't get the stuff to stop rusting. So why keep adding  more.

When it's 'done'. I sometimes wash the bbl down with Washing Soda soln. A very strong akali, Sodium Carbonate.
Not to be confused with much weaker alkali Sodium BiCarbonate.

Usually I just use a wipe down of Refined Linseed Oil.
Left on the surface for a couple days. It drys overnite. Then a rubdown with a plain cloth with gun-oil, the dried residue comes off.
It seems to stop after-rust of LMF especially when rust bluing. Sometimes Rust Brown will come back a bit and need some attention.

[Swampyankee]

@ Mikeyfirelock, thanks for the invite but a bit more than 1000 miles separate us. I was close when I lived in Arcanum, OH, but Indiana is still a big state.
@  Pukka Bundook What is a stub twist, that's one I don't recall ever hearing.
@Kutter very informative. Thanks.

 I'm leaning towards the LMF product, there is only one thing that gives me pause and that's it's claim to do two things with one product. I suppose "pause" is the wrong word since they also offer their product in a two part configuration. So the decision is whether to go the easy route, or the proven route, many things that claim to do two jobs in one application haven't proven to be true in my experience.

[sdilts]

I assume you are referring to it being able to brown or rust blue. I've used it for both applications. The process is the same whether browning or bluing. The only difference is you put the browned barrel into boiling water, and it turns the brown into a blue/black.

[RMann]

Thanks Kutter for sharing your experience, I will try that route for my next barrel.  On my first try with LMF, I had good results just hanging my barrel in my humid Ohio basement. (Summertime)  It browned slowly, but steady and evenly.  My next barrel was during the winter, so less humid environment with the furnace going.  I still used LMF but in my small, very steamed up bathroom.  It worked fast, but not so evenly, definitely spotty.  I think I overdid the humidity... probably some dripping...  Anyway, In my limited experience, I like limited humidity, and more patience/time.  (I am not going for a heavy, pitted effect)

[Waksupi]

For slow rust browning or bluing, I just swab on the solution, then add patience. I've had barrels take two weeks to brown, while I could easily blue a half dozen barrels in the same time.

[john bohan]

 I don,t have a hot box I just use 2 coolers end to end with a gallon jug of hot water in each cooler, then cover with towels or whatever you have. I have used many browning agents without problems.