NE 40 Fowler/Musket Question

[silky]

This is in regards to NE 40 by the Hills in Grinslade's "Flintlock Fowlers"...

He calls it a "full-sized fowler" and says "...bayonet made this fowler into a semi-military weapon."  Semantics aside, would the experts among you agree this was likely a purpose-built musket for military use?  To my eye, everything about it says so: metal ramrod, swivels, robust stock architecture, Bess sideplate, trigger guard, etc.  He mentions three of the nine shown are probably similar to what was built for the militia, but not which one specifically.

I get it, there was lots of multiple-use in guns in that time and region, but I'm building my own militia gun and trying to draw inspiration from examples that were built from the start for that purpose.  Would I be wrong to look for that in NE 40?

Thanks!

- Tom

[rich pierce]

Yes, I’d say so. Of course some guns were purpose built for one use or another using a mix of new and recycled parts. Others were a re-stock of a broken gun. Because this one has a mix of parts it does look like a new build for military purposes.

[silky]

Perfect -- thanks!  I think the pewter nose cap is kinda interesting, too.

- Tom

[Clark Badgett]

What time period militia musket are you planning on?

[silky]

What time period militia musket are you planning on?

1770's -- built in anticipation of, or during, the Revolution.

[E.Boyd]

Many were built / converted with odd parts. Make do with salvage parts. Check out Flintlock Fowlers by Tom Grimslade..

[JasonR]

Are you brazing a bayonet lug? Would like to see that in process I've got a cherry blank and barrel ready for my NEF but will need guidance if I try the spear pole option

[Clark Badgett]

Silky, if that fowler was a purpose built musket from recycled Bess parts, that side plate would place it beyond 1779 manufacture, unless its a modified long land pattern plate.

[smart dog]

Hi,
I am with Clark.  If that is a side plate from a British musket, it must be a pattern 1779 produced by John Pratt.  So the musket likely was made near the end of the revolution or after.

dave

[silky]

Clark and Dave,

Thanks for pointing that out!  While I'm not building a copy of that musket, I was actually looking specifically at that sideplate design as one I might use.  My intent is a musket more pre-war/early war, so that one is out.

I appreciate your help -- it has saved me from making a details mistake that I would regret every time I look at it.

- Tom

[silky]

Are you brazing a bayonet lug? Would like to see that in process I've got a cherry blank and barrel ready for my NEF but will need guidance if I try the spear pole option

Yes, but I haven't gotten so far yet as to attack the details of doing it.  I think there are some step-by-step how-to's on this board.

[smart dog]

Hi,
For a full sized socket bayonet, the stud should be located 2 1/8" from the muzzle.  Make the stud with a slightly larger base such that it can be dovetailed into the barrel.  The dovetailing slot is very shallow.  Fit the lug in the dovetail and then braze or solder it in place.  I use low temperature silver bearing solder.  The socket of the bayonet should be fitted such that at least 1/8" of barrel protrudes at the front and the rear does not butt against the stock.   Give the socket at least 1/8-1/4" clearance from the end of the stock.  A properly fitted bayonet will not rattle or wobble and needs to be tapped up with the palm of your hand to loosen it for removal.

dave

[silky]

Hi,
For a full sized socket bayonet, the stud should be located 2 1/8" from the muzzle.  Make the stud with a slightly larger base such that it can be dovetailed into the barrel.  The dovetailing slot is very shallow.  Fit the lug in the dovetail and then braze or solder it in place.  I use low temperature silver bearing solder.  The socket of the bayonet should be fitted such that at least 1/8" of barrel protrudes at the front and the rear does not butt against the stock.   Give the socket at least 1/8-1/4" clearance from the end of the stock.  A properly fitted bayonet will not rattle or wobble and needs to be tapped up with the palm of your hand to loosen it for removal.

dave

This is so helpful -- thank you, Dave.  I'm sure I'll have some questions when I get to that point but this probably answered 90% of them already.

- Tom

[JasonR]

Yes thanks Silky and Dave.