Tried and True Varnish vs Permalyn

[beagle74]

I've used Permalyn on my only other build which I think has held up fantastic through about 10 deer seasons.  It seems to be out of stock at the moment, is Tried and  True as durable as Permalyn, in your experience?   This is going on a .36 squirrel rifle that I think will see a lot more use than my .50.  Thanks in advance.

[oldtravler61]

  I've used it on guns I've built and I like it.  It isn't a historical finish but it does indeed hold up very well.  Hopefully someone else will chime in..

[TDM]

I've used both, but mostly T&T. I like T&T but wasn't fond of the long dry times. Then I started adding a table spoon or two of good gum turpentine per 2-3 ozs. Made all the difference, dries fast and goes on smoother with better penetration. I've had no wear issues.

[Dphariss]

Is a synthetic that is 95% solvents. That is how it “drys” is by evaporation of the solvents. It also means that there is very little actual “finish” in a can of the stuff.
If Tried and True was drying too slow I would heat it up in a old deep fat frier and add some japan drier maybe a teaspoon to the pint. Then thin with no more than about 20% turpentine left out in a shallow dish to age and pick up oxygen.
I just don’t like “huffing” solvent fumes. Like MEK.

[Jennison]

Tried and True Varnish oil is linseed oil and pine resin.  It's all natural stuff and I like it a lot.  Not a drop of synthetics in it.  But, because it's all natural, it will take forever to dry unless you apply it correctly. The trick to using it is to apply it sparingly, wait an hour, then wipe it off.  Wait a couple of days and do it again.  Repeat that until you like the finish.  You can achieve a beautiful mellow gloss with it.  I seriously don't think it will hold up as well as Permalyn with its synthetics, but it's probably as close to an original finish as you can get.  I believe Ken Gahagan uses it; Smart Dog also knows a lot about it (he's the one who originally recommended it to me).

Jennison

[Beaverman]

I've used T&T the way TDM uses it, (he recommended it to me) the first 2 coats were a 50/50 mike of T&T and Turp for deep penetration, then mixed the way he stated here, can recoat every other day, especially if it's warm in your shop or house and you can hang it in some sunlight. I used it like this on recent GPR remodel and I like it very much, planning to use it on my Woodsrunner also.

[t.caster]

I've been unable to find T & T around my area, but i have tried Tung Oil on my last two projects after a couple coats of Permalyn sealer. It dries in a few hours but I let it set at least 24 hrs. between coats. Pretty happy with the results!
Prior to that Wahkon Bay Permalyn sealer and finish was my go to top coat.

[Daryl]

With Tung oil the trick is to let it harden completely between thin rubbed in coats. At least, that is how I do it and it works.

[Bsharp]

I found this one on the internet and tried it.

A very nice, non plastic looking finish.

With the addition of marine grade spar varnish, it should be quite water resistant.


1-1-1 sealer and finish    0r, try 1-1-1/2 finish

If you are still having trouble with the true oil or anyone else looking for a faster finish, try this. This is probably the easiest and one of the most beautiful finishes there is.
 Mix equal parts  marine grade spar varnish (semi gloss), Tried & True Varnish Oil, and pure gum turpentine.
 
Sand bow down to at least 220 grit then wipe a heavy coat of the mix on with a cloth. Leave it until it gets almost to sticky to wipe (45min.-1.25hr depending on temp.) (Tried & True may (will) be less time ) then rub vigorously with clean cloth until all the excess is gone and you can touch the bow or gun without sticking.

Let this first coat dry 24hrs, after that you can do a coat every couple hours or less. When the first 24 is up lightly sand with 400 grit then rub with 0000 steel wool [may not need sanding], just to get the little bumps that raise up from the wet finish. All other coats are rubbed in with a cloth and ready to wipe after 20-40min. no other sanding is needed after the first coat, just rub the bow hard with a clean cloth just before putting a new coat on.
 
Because you wipe off the excess on each coat you don't have to worry about dust or runs, and you get the look of linseed oil with the protection of marine spar varnish. 4 coats will do but 7-10 is better, then just rub in a few coats of your choice of wax.

A couple of warnings- linseed oil will spontaneously combust on cloths as it dries, when you are done with a coat put all soiled cloths in water and put them outside, also if you wait too long before you rub off the excess you will have an almost impossible time getting it even, just rub it off as soon as it feels sticky. You get a fast build up, flexible, water proof finish with minimal work, and it looks awesome.

Original formula was using boiled linseed oil. Tried & True is a polymerized linseed oil.

*What is Polymerized Linseed Oil?
Polymerized Linseed Oil is created by heating raw linseed oil in the absence of oxygen to about 300°C (572°F) over the course of several days. During this process, a polymerization reaction occurs, which increases the oil’s viscosity and decreases the drying time.

[alacran]

Smart Dog posted a formula for a finish which I like and is easy to use, 25% pure tung oil, 25% polyurethane (I use satin), and 50% turpentine or mineral spirits. I use turpentine because I like the smell.
I wipe it on liberally, let it sit for about 5 minutes and wipe it off. In a higher humidity environment, you could let it sit longer.
After three to four coats, you end up with a good hard water-resistant finish.
The only waterproof finish is an epoxy finish such as Thunderbird epoxy bow finish.

[Bsharp]

An Old Durable Stock Finish by Fred Miller:

"The finish and method of application is old. Just when it originated, I don't know. Is it period correct? The ingredients (except for the substitution of marine spar rather than just a spar varnish) are period correct, and certainly the method is as well. If you're looking for a "quick and dirty" finish, then read no further. This finish can be applied to finished wood, as long as the finish is an oil base and was not waxed.

Before applying any finish, the stock should be free of dirt and grime, should be "silk" smooth, and should have been stained with an oil based stain. I will assume that you know how to properly prepare the stock, including lifting the grain twice, etc., before applying the stain.

In a glass jar that has a tight lid, mix equal volumes of any marine spar varnish [semi gloss] and boiled linseed oil. [ * Tried & True Varnish Oil ] Add 1/2 volume turpentine. [1-1-1 for sealer] You don't need to mix up a lot of finish, as a small jar will finish more than one rifle. Cut a number of 10"x10" or larger squares of cloth from old 100% white tee-shirts. You'll use these to wipe down the stock. Wipe down the stock with a clean soft white cloth. All applications of the finish are thin, using just enough to cover well. The first 2 or 3 coats should include all inlet areas of the stock. The purpose is to protect it from moisture.

Apply the first coat with your fingers, firmly rubbing the finish into the wood with the grain. Let the stock set for 2 hours.** Take one of the folded tee-shirt squares and with the grain, wipe down the stock gently but firmly. Let set for at least 12 hours. Repeat this with 2 more applications. All of the inlet areas of the stock should now be sealed, and application of finish in these areas is complete. **

**Apply a 4th coat of finish as above, except let it dry for 2 days. Continue the process until you have a smooth, deep, glossy finish. YES! Originals did have a glossy finish! Applying an additional coat of finish every 6 to 12 months will enhance and maintain its durability and beauty indefinitely.

**Using Tried & True cuts the dry time in half.”