Thoughts on J&S Hawken metal finishing…case hardening the patchbox?

[CooleyS]

As I’ve been shaping the stock on this J&S half stock build my mind has been wandering to thoughts on how finish the metal. The early Hawken rifles I’ve handled and inspected don’t have any remnants of metal finish left. The J&S half stock at the Museum of the Fur Trade in Chadron, NE has interesting patterns on the patchbox that could be remnants of case hardening (picture below). I’ve read that Don Stith believed that most were rust blued with some parts being case hardened, Bob Woodfill states in his book that early rifles were browned and still others felt that on some rifles all the parts were case hardened, like some of the later S. Hawken rifles. IF they Hawken brothers were inspired to build their rifles to be similar to English rifles of the time, as some speculate, then it’s not a jump to believe the hardware including the patchbox might be color case hardened with parts blued. Some J&S rifles were dressed up with engraving and fancy wood, so I’d assume the original finishing on the wood and metal would reflect these qualities as well.
I know someone’s going to say that it’s my rifle do what I want, but I’m looking for thoughts on this subject, particularly on color case hardening the patchbox. I am leaning towards an un-aged, new looking overall finish. Anyone have pictures they could post of rifles with various finishes.
Thanks
-Steve

[rich pierce]

It would be hard to accomplish without warping and risking it snapping when you straighten it. Also if the knuckles are soldered it’s a no-go. The Hawken brothers appear to have bought at least some of their patch boxes.

[CooleyS]

Good points Rich, I’ve  thought  about either not doing the final inletting until after the case hardening, and/or annealing in the oven at 500° for a few hours. I know that others do this with other case hardened parts. The patchbox is from Upper Missouri Trading Co. and the hinge is riveted and peened, no solder so that won’t be an issue.
-Steve

[Bob Roller]

That patch box can be polished so it looks like chrome plating and the slowly fire blued with a small torch and the same thing can be done with the trigger guard and butt plate and toe plate and rod thimbles.
Bob Roller

[Curtis]

It is hard to tell what the original finish was for cap boxes on original Hawken rifles - but probably not case-hardened for that part.  Were they rust pr charcoal blued? or left bright? was browning metal popular in those days?  Hard to tell but a rust brown finish always looks nice in my opinion.  Here is a similar one I did a while back:



Curtis

[CooleyS]

I’ve never gotten a believable result from faux case hardening by torch, but I’ve seen some nicely done work. It’s a good idea and I’ll keep working at it.

Curtis, I think a nice browning job looks perfect on an early Hawken as well…maybe I’ll keep with my original plan to brown the rifle. Nice work on the engraving too!
-Steve

[JPK]

Rust blue the barrel and patch box with a color case lock and breech would complement the rifle.

[CooleyS]

Rust blue the barrel and patch box with a color case lock and breech would complement the rifle.

Agreed, that would make a sharp looking rifle as well!

[Joe S.]

I would fabricate a system of thicker metal braces, with small bolts to act as a splint. This will keep the thin parts from warping during the color case hardening process. Also helping would be how its packed and dropped into the quench tank. I suggest you talk with the fellows at Wyoming armory,  not a one off my parts came back warped, including the thin toe plate, thimbles ect. on my hawken build.

[rich pierce]

The two J&S Hawken rifles I examined closely had patch boxes that are now appearing as browned. I rather think that practically, it would make most sense to case harden parts that face wear in use, or in some cases, to better resist rust. It seems that hardened surfaces pit less. Also, we know that many J&S Hawken matchboxes were engraved either simply or fancifully with animal figures. Case hardened boxes could not be engraved after hardening. So it would all seem a lot of work to fit it, engrave it, case harden it, and hope it doesn’t warp. If it does, what’s the cure? Tempering beyond spring temper, so it could be re-shaped. Then start over.

I might be over-thinking this. Wouldn’t be the first time!

[CooleyS]

I would fabricate a system of thicker metal braces, with small bolts to act as a splint. This will keep the thin parts from warping during the color case hardening process. Also helping would be how its packed and dropped into the quench tank. I suggest you talk with the fellows at Wyoming armory,  not a one off my parts came back warped, including the thin toe plate, thimbles ect. on my hawken build.

I’ve had the guys at the Wyoming Armory color case harden hardware on other projects and they are top notch. I spoke with them in regards to this patchbox and they said it should be fine. I’ve only had a few things done by them, but I’ve never had anything come back warped.
-Stev