Author Topic: Ferric chloride etchant  (Read 556 times)

Offline T*O*F

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Ferric chloride etchant
« on: June 05, 2024, 08:01:57 PM »
A couple of years ago, I built a damascus lock and asked the proper dilution of FeCl to use on it.  Those instructions are on the hard drive of my old computer which has since died.

Would appreciate a repost if that person is still around.

Thanks
Dave Kanger

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Offline bpd303

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Re: Ferric chloride etchant
« Reply #1 on: June 05, 2024, 08:38:24 PM »
I'm not sure the mixture I use for etching knives is the same as the poster uses, but here is mine with a Youtube video made by another member in making it. Two parts Hydrogen peroxide H2O2 and one part Ferrous Chloride FeC12.


Randy aka bpd303
« Last Edit: June 05, 2024, 09:30:59 PM by bpd303 »
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Offline T*O*F

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Re: Ferric chloride etchant
« Reply #2 on: June 06, 2024, 12:39:29 AM »
The mixture I'm looking for uses only water and ferric chloride.  Just need to know the dilution.
Dave Kanger

If religion is opium for the masses, the internet is a crack, pixel-huffing orgy that deafens the brain, numbs the senses and scrambles our peer list to include every anonymous loser, twisted deviant, and freak as well as people we normally wouldn't give the time of day.
-S.M. Tomlinson

Offline Habu

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Re: Ferric chloride etchant
« Reply #3 on: June 06, 2024, 07:18:16 AM »
TOF, you gave your dilution rate in this thread: https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=77180.msg764685#msg764685

This is the damascus lock plate I made and colored with Ferric Chloride etchant diluted 4 water to 1 FeCl.  Immersed in solution until colors developed (rather quickly).  I'm sure if used with a browning solution one could develop other colors.  I was going for a French gray look.




Offline kutter

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Re: Ferric chloride etchant
« Reply #4 on: June 06, 2024, 07:29:02 PM »
When doing Damascus Barrel finish , either Brown/White or Black(Blue)/White
I always used a very weak soln of only around 3% Ferric Chloride in Water .

This was used as a very quick dip into and then back out of process.
The rust browned or rust blued bbls then quickly rinsed under running water to clear the etch off the surface and at the very same time the surfaces were carded with clean 0000 steel wool.

I did this with every 'cycle'.
Some only did the etching cycle every few rustings.
The Black/White pattern requires the rusting to be boiled as well.
The Brown/White pattern does not.

I found using and etch soln much stronger than the 3% would destroy much of the color I was trying to build up.

The etching soln was loosening the color just built up on the Steel component and it being carded off left the 'white metal look. The softer Iron surfaces held the color better and lost less of it through the etching process.
The color pattern is left behind.
Many cycles are needed to build the final finish.
3 steps forward ,,1 or 2 back each time.

If you are mearly trying to 'etch' your way to a Damascus pattern and are not concerned with the traditional bbl color patterns,,then a stronger soln will get you there.
As above demonstrates,, a 1 to 4 etchant to water seems to work nicely.
That strong of a soln would remove all of any built up rust brown or blue color with each etching step done.


Offline T*O*F

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Re: Ferric chloride etchant
« Reply #5 on: June 06, 2024, 08:36:34 PM »
Quote
TOF, you gave your dilution rate in this thread:
Thanks for finding that.  I had posted the results after another member gave me that dilution ratio.  I'm going  to do a barrel, hoping I get the gray shade rather than the darker one.
Dave Kanger

If religion is opium for the masses, the internet is a crack, pixel-huffing orgy that deafens the brain, numbs the senses and scrambles our peer list to include every anonymous loser, twisted deviant, and freak as well as people we normally wouldn't give the time of day.
-S.M. Tomlinson