Installing a double set trigger

[Terry Reynolds]

I tried the search function to find a tutorial on installing a DST but haven't come up with one. I've installed single triggers with no problem but find these DST are a little different and want to do it right. I know the front trigger releases the back trigger but which one actually works the sear bar?

Thanks

[EC121]

On a double acting, double set trigger the back trigger bar does releases the sear when set, and the front trigger bar does it when unset.  If you have a single acting trigger with the bar only on the back trigger, then it does all the work.  There are other inletting considerations, but that is how the triggers work.

[Bob Roller]

Measurement and careful calculation is the key.Sometime ago,Taylor Sapergia
posted how he laid out the pistol grip Hawken.This was so simple and easy to
see how he did it and made a modern day classic rifle way better than the antique
he copied.

Bob Roller

[davebozell]

"Recreating the American Longrifle" has a very good explanation for installing double set triggers and how they operate.

[D. Taylor Sapergia]

Is this the one Bob?  Because the wrist is so deep on this rifle, it's good that L & R's triggers have so much metal in their kicker section.  Otherwise, I would have had to add steel to them to reach the sear arm.
In a longrifle, the distance from the bottom of the trigger plate to the sear arm is critical, and must be planned for in advance of starting their inlet.  A simple profile drawing will tell you whether your triggers are going to mate with the lock.  Do not forego this vital step.  At least that's how I have to do it...I'm not a 'wing-it' kind of builder.
When you press the two triggers toward each other, the upper plates form a "V" notch.  Move the trigger set forward and back until that "V" coincides with the sear arm.  Coincidentally, it is usually right where the adjustment screw is in the trigger set.

[TommyG]

Careful and precise layout is a must before starting as you will need to consider where the tang bolt is located as well as the triggerguard you plan on using. Strip the triggers down, start with just the plate.  Note that you will need to shape/bend/shorten the plate to the stock profile in the trigger location.  When I bend the plate, I try to avoid any harsh bends and try to do the bending fore and aft of the trigger slots, also always install the trigger pins when bending. From there I file a slight draft on the plate.  Once the location is determined, I install them basically the same way you would a lock.  Inlet your plate(note that you want to sneak up on the ends as they will pull a gap as you inlet down into the concave profile).  Once the plate is inlet, I install the tang bolt and rear plate screw.  Then I add components one at a time in this order -  front trigger, rear trigger, rear trigger spring & screw, front trigger spring. It is slow and tedious work, for me anyway, to get everything working correctly without rubbing and from there you will need to set/file the height for correct clearances to your sear on both triggers with the cock in all three positions.  Hope this helps.

[Bill Raby]

Maybe this will help.

[Dphariss]

Is this the one Bob?  Because the wrist is so deep on this rifle, it's good that L & R's triggers have so much metal in their kicker section.  Otherwise, I would have had to add steel to them to reach the sear arm.
In a longrifle, the distance from the bottom of the trigger plate to the sear arm is critical, and must be planned for in advance of starting their inlet.  A simple profile drawing will tell you whether your triggers are going to mate with the lock.  Do not forego this vital step.  At least that's how I have to do it...I'm not a 'wing-it' kind of builder.
When you press the two triggers toward each other, the upper plates form a "V" notch.  Move the trigger set forward and back until that "V" coincides with the sear arm.  Coincidentally, it is usually right where the adjustment screw is in the trigger set.

Good advice.
Once its understood its all done without really thinking. Unless doing something as Taylor has pictured here. Then some careful layout and head scratching is needed.

Dan

[Bob Roller]

Yes,THAT is the one I had in mind.Well laid out and CERTAINLY well done as a finished rifle.
A set of French curves and a good,easy to read steel ruler either 6"or 12" is needed as well.
I prefer the 12". The French curves may not really be "needed" but like other tools,it's best to
have them and not need them that to NEED them and NOT have them.

Bob Roller

[treed]

I need more height in my Davis hawken set triggers to reach the sear. I understand i can add steel to the top of each trigger by soldering or welding,  but I'm concerned I will not be able to reassemble as they would not fit thru the slots in the trigger plate. Is it a standard practice to just enlarge those slots.? Thanks in advance, love this forum.

[smylee grouch]

Pictures of your gun might be helpful. Is the trigger assembly inlet deep enuf?

[smylee grouch]

Also, you don't want the trigger blades inlet to the  point that they touch the sear when they are in the set position.

[smart dog]

Hi,
I am going to simplify things a little.  I assume you have double lever triggers so both front and back levers can fire the gun.  You wrote that you installed simple triggers.  My advice is ignore the rear lever for the moment and position your front trigger lever where you would if it was a simple trigger.  You cannot have the lever in constant contact with the sear of the lock or you will have trouble setting the rear trigger. So you cannot escape having a tiny bit of creep in your front trigger.  Then look at where the rear lever is positioned relative to the sear of the lock. All you need is for that lever to hit the sear even if it does so at its forward end.  The sear does not have to engage the rear lever very far back at all.  So position your front trigger where you like it on simple triggers and if the rear lever still hits the sear, you are good to go.  If the rear lever doesn't reach the sear bar, then move the triggers forward just enough that it does.

dave 

[treed]

Trigger plate is inletted deep enough, I want to keep the depth at the breech area at 2 1/16" ( copying an original J&S Hawken) I need 1/8 to 3/16 more height on both triggers to reach the sear bar.  When I add this, not sure the triggers will fit through the slots in the trigger plate.

[Bob Roller]

Maybe someone can make a special trigger to accommodate this style of trigger.Mismatched parts are a real pain.
Bob Roller

[Eric Krewson]

I have added to the trigger height several times, once because I goofed up and another time when my rifle had a 3/8" web and I couldn't go deeper with trigger plate without getting into the ramrod hole.

I cut out a piece the same width as the trigger bar, harden it and solder it on with solder paste so it never gets hot enough to take the temper out.

I file the excess height to hit the sear just right, polish it up and am good to go.

This is the only picture I have of an add on, this is before I removed the excess height, I only left about 3/16". I hold the piece down with vice grips while I solder it, hence the need for a lot of extra metal to grab on to.