Another spring (Frizzen this time) question

[Steeltrap]

I'm fitting the frizzen to the pan and polishing up surfaces along the way.

I'm somewhat perplexed by my frizzen spring where it mates with the frizzen "foot". I've polished the spring and the frizzen foot twice now... but just through working it to fit the pan, the spring (and foot) get this gouge in both. I know the pic doesn't show the entire surface\gouge area so I don't know how much the pic helps.

The pic below shows some of it as I took this pic when I was close to polishing it out. I use 220-grit, then 340-grit, then I have a piece of 5,000 grit that I use to mirror up the surface.

Is the spring metal too soft?  Do I need to harden the spring?

[Steeltrap]

https://americanlongrifles.org/forum/index.php?topic=17374.msg162519;topicseen#msg162519

Sometimes you just gotta do a search.   

[Blacksmoke]

Steeltrap:  After polishing bright , lube is the next criteria - I use a small touch of synthetic grease/oil developed for the Telephone industry during the eletromechanical switching years.1950 - 1985. I was in that industry for 35 yrs. There is a graphite grease as well as a number of synthetic lubes on the market.  The frizzen cam/spring bearing needs to kept clear of dirt, dust and small flint chips. Do not try to reharden the spring as will destroy the proper spring temper and surly break.

[Steeltrap]

Steeltrap:  After polishing bright , lube is the next criteria - I use a small touch of synthetic grease/oil developed for the Telephone industry during the eletromechanical switching years.1950 - 1985. I was in that industry for 35 yrs. There is a graphite grease as well as a number of synthetic lubes on the market.  The frizzen cam/spring bearing needs to kept clear of dirt, dust and small flint chips. Do not try to reharden the spring as will destroy the proper spring temper and surly break.

Thank you Blacksmoke. I didn't wish to heat treat anything except last nights leftovers for dinner. I'll apply some grease and go from there.

[Steeltrap]

I was fitting the pan to the lockplate I had (what I think) was a sizable gap at the front of the pan. Probably 4-thousandths. I kept cautiously filing the rear and checking the gap. I wasn’t happy with the need to “file the rear deeper” in order to close the front gap.

So I removed the frizzen spring and studied how the play in the frizzen bolt hole affected the front gap. I had a lot of play between the two.

So I decided to make a “custom” diameter frizzen screw. As it turned out, the diameter of the screw I made is now .141 as opposed to the standard size of .138. This reduced the frizzen play and closed up the front gap to (my guess) 2-thousandths.

A few careful file strokes later I had the gap closed.

This lock has the frizzen screw on the outside. So, I also had to drill out the lockplate bolt hole.

[Blacksmoke]

Sounds like you're getting the hang of it !  Lock commercial lock makers of today do not make locks ready to use with out some tuning!! and in most cases a LOT of tuning. Kibler is about the best but his locks need tuning as well. H.T.

[Steeltrap]

Getting better, but still a rank amateur.  This lock has a "fat" profile behind the tumbler hole. Lots of extra metal above the sear spring and below the sear bar.

I'll eventually get around to slimming that down so the visual effect on the future pistol will be slimmer.

I know enough to not touch the bolster where the lock contacts the plate. But I'm not going up that far anyway.

[Steeltrap]

Before



After