Swamped Barrel Reveal - Need Help

[Bill-52]

I could sure use some advice from more experienced builders, which is likely just about everybody on ALR....

I'm working on my first rifle which has a 42", B-profile, swamped barrel (1" at breech, 3/4" at minimum and 13/16' at muzzle).   Everything I've read states that 1/2 of the side barrel flat should be revealed all along the forestock and that the top of the forestock should be absolutely flat. My question is:

Given the swamped barrel, should a constant 1/2 of the side barrel flat be revealed, even if it means the actual measured reveal will differ along the barrel length and the forestock will not be truly flat?  

Or should the reveal be a constant measured distance (if so, how much?), thereby achieving a flat top of the forestock?

It seems to me the answer will also impact the dimensions of the forestock all along the barrel in order to keep the proportionality correct.

Any comments/suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I'm trying to preserve the structural integrity as well as achieve the correct "flowing lines" appearance.

Thanks and Happy New Year!
Bill

[BJH]

Half a barel flat is merely a guideline it should be a bit more,as in more barrel showing. The top surface of your stock will follow the horizontal C/L of your barrel for starters. As you finish the forend you might want to take off 1/32 to 1/16 or so depending on where your lock bolster falls and you top surface of your nose cap. Hope this helps...BJH

[David Rase]

Bill,  It makes no difference rather the barel is swamped, straight, tapered or oct/round.  As you stated, the top of the forestock should be perfectly flat and run down the centerline of the barrel.  The standard is to run the top of the forestock flat and down the barrel centerline.  The ramrod channel should be straight and flat also.  
DMR        

[Acer Saccharum]

On this original, the reveal goes from the mid of the barrel, almost down to the bottom corner of the side flat. In other words, in places the side flat is almost completely revealed. In other places, the wood comes halfway up the barrel.

[Tom Currie]

Bill52, You've made a wrong assumption in the last part of your statement " Given the swamped barrel, should a constant 1/2 of the side barrel flat be revealed, even if it means the actual measured reveal will differ along the barrel length and the forestock will not be truly flat?  "

If in fact 1/2 of the side barrel flat is exposed the whole length of the barrel your forestock will be exactly flat

[Dr. Tim-Boone]

The stock is a constant straight line, the top of the barrel will change with the swamp....adding a nice aesthetic effect!! IMHO.

[Bill-52]

Thanks, everyone.  Now I understand -- everything is relative to the centerline of the barrel, thereby producing a flat forestock.

And Tom C, you're absolutely right, a constant 1/2 of the side flat at all points will produce a flat forestock with a swapmed barrel, just not a constant measured reveal (which, Tim, I agree will look good) .  Late night last night and not enough coffee when I originally posted.

Thanks again and best wishes for the New Year.

Bill

[Acer Saccharum]

You could say the midline of the barrel is where you reference your wood to.

Some like to leave more barrel exposed, so the wood is lower than your reference line. This gives a 'slimming' effect.

Tom

[Nate McKenzie]

In some schools such as Lehigh Valley Its more like 2/3 of the barrel showing and 2/3 of the ram rod showing and about 1/16" of wood on each side of the barrel. This makes for a very slim forearm.

[Don Getz]

I like what Nate has said above.   After you have that forend shaped down to the middle of the side flats of the barrel,
take some more off, leaving more than 1/2 of the barrel flat showing.....this will give you a slimmer looking forend....Don

[Bill-52]

Thanks for the recommendations Tom, Nate and Don.  Slim (slender?) is the look I'm trying to achieve while remaining consistent with a Harrisburg/Dauphin county look.  We'll see how brave I am when I get to final shaping of the forestock......

[Nate McKenzie]

Look at the J. Roop rifle in the museum and my posting of the same. One of Roops shops was along Swatara  Creek near Harrisburg.

[Bill-52]

Nate, thanks for pointing that out.  Funny thing, I was looking at that Roop just last week but focused on the patchbox and lock area.  Now that I've gone back and paid attention to the forearm and muzzle areas, I see exactly your point. 

Best wishes for a happy New Year.

Bill

[T*O*F]

(1" at breech, 3/4" at minimum and 13/16' at muzzle).

The top of your lock bolster and the top of your nosecap (if using a commercial one) will determine your stock line.  It can be lowered slightly by placing your touch-hole lower.

If you make your own nosecap, pour one, or don't use one, then you can get the slimmest forestock by doing the following:
1.  Lay a straightedge along the side flat of your barrel and place it so it is just above the bottom edge of the 3/4" section.  That is your lowest possible point.
2.  Draw a line along the straightedge (both sides of your barrel with a thinline marker.
3.  Using that line at the breech, determine the lowest point near that line where you can position your touch-hole.
4.  Inlet your lock.  Then start removing wood until the line on your barrel shows.  There may be a slight angle from your bolster to the middle of the barrel, but spread out over 24" it will be barely perceptable.

Obviously, this can't be done with a precarved, pre-inlet stock, as it all has to be layed out before starting the gun and everything placed and inlet in the proper position, and you have to make your own nosecap.