Author Topic: The Littlest Legigh (Read 1329 times)

Clear Spring Armory · « **on:** August 10, 2024, 08:21:35 AM »

Getting down to the nitty gritty on the butt stock of this rifle Im building for my daughter. It is a 36 caliber Lehigh, I think it's a 36-in Rice barrel, Siler Lock, Reaves casting, and I believe a 10 and 3/4-in pull. It's my first Lehigh, so it's probably not going to be perfect. But I'm going to post pictures as I go and maybe you guys can help me not mess it up too bad. Kinda trying to figure out transitioning the wrist into the butt right now.

Hungry Horse · « **Reply #1 on:** August 10, 2024, 07:02:56 PM »

I’m seeing no pictures.

Hungry Horse

Daryl · « **Reply #2 on:** August 10, 2024, 07:09:51 PM »

Interesting. Are you going to leave the sides of the comb sharp?

Steeltrap · « **Reply #3 on:** August 10, 2024, 08:03:46 PM »

I see no pics either. Perhaps your pic hosting site has a privacy setting that needs looked at?

Daryl · « **Reply #4 on:** August 11, 2024, 12:32:40 AM »

Showing on my phone just fine.

Steeltrap · « **Reply #5 on:** August 11, 2024, 12:42:49 AM »

Odd.....showing on my iPhone, but not on my MacBook pro. I love 'Puter's.

mikeyfirelock · « **Reply #6 on:** August 11, 2024, 01:55:09 AM »

I think you are doing a nice job. It’s hard to tell from pictures, but to my eye, I think you could work a little on the transition of the wrist frim the lock area into the buttstock proper maybe…. Nothing radical, just a little more thinning as it transitions from the lock into the buttstock proper. It’s hard to tell just from a pic. If you do decide to do so go slowly and carefully. ( slowly means SLOWLY ……..and carefully means just that also.)
Looks good
Mikeyfirelock ( whose opinion has yet to produce any sort of income stream)

TommyG · « **Reply #7 on:** August 11, 2024, 03:06:14 AM »

I agree with Mike. I don't know if you are working from a drawing, but Eric Von Aschwege offers a great drawing he calls Little Lehigh, which is basically the John Rupp side opener. I worked from that drawing building the side opener and it really opened my eyes to some Lehigh architecture that I otherwise wouldn't have noticed. Two of the real subtle things are - 1) the line of the lower forearm dishes up into the wrist a wee bit, not much, maybe .030-.040 or so, it starts right behind the triggerplate and initiates the curve to the toe line. This helps to give that "squat" soft diamond look thru the wrist. The other is the comb lines are not straight from the buttplate to the nose. There again, very subtle, they dish in about 1/32" or so. Even looking at the drawings you wouldn't notice until you start putting a straight edge on things. But they all add up to slimming down the wrist and butt. Hope this helps.

smallpatch · « **Reply #8 on:** August 11, 2024, 04:58:48 AM »

That wide sharp comb will beat the crud out of your face.
I’ll try to post some photos of the wrist transition for you. Seem to be having trouble with photos right now though.
The bottom of the wrist/buttstock usually has a slight double arc. As well, the wrist is wider than tall.
Some call the wrist shape a “soft diamond”, which is a good description.
On most, the front of the trigger guard, continues into the diamond on the side of the wrist. Remember, this is very subtle.
Hope this helps.

Clear Spring Armory · « **Reply #9 on:** August 11, 2024, 07:04:37 AM »

Ya, I couldn't see the pictures for several hours after I posted them, almost erased it and tried again. But I can see them now.

Thank you for the responses. Yes, I do plan to round the comb lines and the bottom of the wrist between the ends of the trigger guard. The comb nose needs thinned some more as well. I was saving these things for last but realizing now I should probably round the bottom of the wrist now so I can see how it will effect the overall form of the wrist. The lock panels to wrist transition I'm still working out, so I left it high and wide. I want a molding or beaver tail, maybe the fluer de lis looking thing I saw on a Lehigh I think. Some guns I see look like they have a quick step down from lock panels to wrist (making the wrist narrower than the lock panels) others look like the lock panel basically continues straight into the wrist and helps form the ridge of that ”soft diamond”. Thoughts on this? Also, the gun has quite a bit of cast off (I have read that they should) and that gave me trouble with the comb lines. There was an obvious curve, but I took most of it out. I will shoot for that 1/32" as some one mentioned. That's the kind of info I'm looking for, by the way. Thank you. I've studied on the internet at all the little nuances of Lehighs, but am quickly learning it's not so straightforward when you go to do it

P.W.Berkuta · « **Reply #10 on:** August 11, 2024, 09:33:39 PM »

I can see your pictures - it is now 8/11/2024 when I am looking at your post.

I am not versed on the Lehigh style buy for me I am not a fan of it. There are others that appeal to me more - like Redding - Lancaster - York - just my taste.

Steeltrap · « **Reply #11 on:** August 12, 2024, 12:27:07 AM »

Since the rifle is only a .36 caliber I don't think your felt recoil will be all that much.

I built a 45 Cal Jr. (small frame) rifle borrowing styles from a few different rifles. My comb is as pictured below. I've shot it several times with charges to 65gr and I've never noticed any issues with the recoil.

FWIW

Clear Spring Armory · « **Reply #12 on:** August 12, 2024, 07:37:22 AM »

Got the lock side wrist refined a bit tonight. Also lowered the top of the wrist and thinned it (in cross section) slightly. My two biggest issues now is that I wish I would have tipped the lock a bit more to raise the tail. Having a hard time centering the wrist ridge and lock tail, so my lock panel is looking a little funny. Also, the transition where the toe line goes from flat to the round section under the guard. It's very abrupt and noticable on mine. Im not quite sure yet how to blend that together. I don't see that in the pictures of other Lehighs. Hopefully the pictures load this time

Steeltrap · « **Reply #13 on:** August 12, 2024, 03:24:31 PM »

Quote from: Daryl on August 12, 2024, 04:30:03 AM

Good for you.

Is this a contribution to the thread?

TommyG · « **Reply #14 on:** August 12, 2024, 10:18:09 PM »

From the pics I see, I think I would thin the width of the toe a bit. That might help with the transition you are concerned about. Here are some pics from the top view of my Rupp. Hope this helps.

smallpatch · « **Reply #15 on:** August 13, 2024, 12:02:25 AM »

I agree with TommyG, the toe of your buttplate is way too wide. Narrow the entire bottom and top of the butt.

Clear Spring Armory · « **Reply #16 on:** August 13, 2024, 12:59:44 PM »

Got a bit of time last night to work on it last night and narrowed the toe line at the trigger guard. On the lock side, haven't got to the cheek side yet. Helped a lot. I've already thinned the buttplate when I started shaping the butt. So much so I started getting a few gaps in the inlet. And redoing the entire buttplate inlet would open a whole new can of worms. So I'm going to ride it out and just remember for next time.

Great pictures Tommy, those angles are really helpful.

Clear Spring Armory · « **Reply #17 on:** August 15, 2024, 05:20:52 AM »

Got a bit more done on the cheek side. Pretty happy with how it's coming out. I need to fix up the cheek piece and lock panel next I think

Steeltrap · « **Reply #18 on:** August 15, 2024, 01:32:44 PM »

That's looking good. You may want to consider rounding those comb edges a bit more.....Have it look more like the pic's TommyG posted.

Clear Spring Armory · « **Reply #19 on:** August 15, 2024, 04:48:35 PM »

Yes, I will be rounding the edges a bit. Just waiting a little longer. It's easier for me to keep the sides straight if it's not rounded. That will be about the last thing I do

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Author Topic: The Littlest Legigh (Read 1329 times)